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And even more importantly, just found the Palmdale lock-on come in new Minty Green 🙂
http://www.jungleproducts.co.uk/shop/product/palmdale-grip/540/
I have bought clear gorilla tape for £5 something in hardware store... am very, very tempted to tape direct so I can see status of sealant inside 🙂
next upgrades are:
carbon thomson flat bar
specialized -12' or -16' stem to get front end down
XO crank with oval absolute black rings so can change between 28t and 32t without removing crank...
either a one-up 42t or convert to 11 speed with a new rear wheel (original will keep for single speed), me thinks will go with one up for now
Why do you want the front end down?
I had a play in the woods last night, probably the most I've liked a new bike ever.
It's definitely short, but the front end comes up so easily: it feels very light and really playful. I'm sure it's slower, but the tyres don't feel remotely draggy. Coming in this morning, came up a climb at the end of Heaton Park where traction on a normal bike is limited. My only concern on the Stache was snapping the chain, just grip, grip, grip...
Stuck a layback Thomson on just now, prefer the extra room. See the new carbon frames are longer for the same given size. Already see a carbon frame and suspension forks 12 months from now as my main bike, will keep the 5 as a winter bike.
Just a lot of fun. Don't think the other bikes will be out much for a while.
@bonesetter I am not quite a eurowhippet but do prefer a lower front end with all 29ers, and the stache is a good few cm higher than the kona unit 29er its replacing. will not quite extend to reverse bull bars tho 🙂
+1 on the traction, I had a 2009 then 2011 stumpy FSR for the traction with the brain shock / fork - this just does it better with plain ole tyres and "No Shox" lol.
Grip in the dry is obscene.
I never thought I'd ever be able to get up this climb and only know of one person who's cleaned it (it carrys on after this a bit slacker then kicks you again at the top) but a few months ago it dawned on me that I might be able to do it on the Stache.
Yes I'm probably stronger than I've ever been but I wouldn't be contemplating it on my standard 29er hardtail.
[url= https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8051/29183649874_4acb3a8e02_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8051/29183649874_4acb3a8e02_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/LsRQn9 ]Little Roseberry[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/tomlevell/ ]Tom Levell[/url], on Flickr
Currently I've ridden every bit but not in one go. The last try was 10m shy of the slacker bit where I could get a rest before tackling the top section which I can do on other bikes.
Winter will either be on the normal bike or maybe get a normal boost rear wheel to fit a normal winter tyre to.
that'll be those "goat suckers" 😀
Super pic tom
Just ordered the Stache 7, ive been thinking it over and over, going between a Fuse or Stache 7 £1350 at evans its a bit of a bargain and I can always get smaller wheels 650b, unlike the fuse I can't run them bigger.
Went for the small frame, hoping its not too small, but looking at measurements its bigger than my full sus. Will post a pic when I get it!
Does anyone know if the raceface aefect crank has a 30mm or 24mm spindle on stache 5?
It's a 24mm.
thanks Daffy
10 months now with my stache 5 and novelty has not worn off. Other bikes gathering dust and spiders.
Like someone above I found the front end too high with stock setup. Right between frame sizes so I sized up and now run a 50 mm 6 degree stem inverted and one spacer. Took a while to find a fit I was happy with mind you!
Done about 2500 miles on mine now and on the third bottom bracket (pf92) but easy to replace.
You got to watch the rear wheel flex though under load... Chainline in the highest couple of gears is not ideal which causes rear end to flex. Was getting a little bit of rub on one of the stays so dished the wheel a tad over to compensate.
glad you also felt high, I am using the specialized comp stem which comes with various shims so I can play with stem think I am at -16 to start with 😉
interesting re flex, is that with stock 36t or are you using something bigger like a 42t conversion cog?
No stock. Problem is not in the low gears, only the high (11 and 13 tooth sprockets on rear). Look down at the rear tyre and then stomp on pedals..... You will see the flex (ridden 3 staches and they all do it).
I am a stomper not a spinner so I notice it more.
The chainline at the extreme end of the rear cassette is pretty bad due to the boost hub. Not really an issue and all frames flex to some extent. Just in my case the rear wheel dish was biases towards one stay so needed to re dish just to the right of centre. No more rubbing (and bike now tracks straight with no hands on the bar).
anyone fitted a 42t on the rear yet?
I gave in an ordered a 2017 Stache 5 last night. Should hopefully be at the shop by the weekend according to Trek 🙂
Running a carbon Lefty on my 5 at the moment. Pics to follow.
Aweosme! Chunky can't wait to see that! Bet it rides brilliantly. What lefty / hub you go for.... Need details 🙂
Slow bloke.... Great choice. Shame though trek have dropped the rigid 5 for 2017. Looking at the 2017 version, looks like apart from the squishy forks, the rims have changed from mulefuts to duroc's. Geo looks the same pretty much (2016 5 was 5mm longer in the ETT than the 7 and 9 versions).
Cborrman nope I have not but it will work fine. The deore shadow medium cage deraileur supplied on the 5 will take 37t (same slx and xt medium cages)
Rear derailleur capacity is calculated as biggest rear cog – smallest cog + biggest front chainring – smallest chainring.
42-11 + 32 - 32 = 31t
Hardest tyre/rim combo I've ever tried to set up tubeless: tried them dry, rubbed with Stans, soapy water, re-seated using a tube and so on. I got so frustrated I went out and bought the £80 compressor from Aldi (I wanted one anyway), and I'm not sure I'd have popped it without.
Couple of points for those that haven't done the conversion yet:
1. My rims were already taped, thanks Trek 🙂
2. You need tubeless valves with threads right to the bottom of the valve
3. I tried Stans valves, but couldn't get them tight enough. Bought some Specialized Royal valves which have a square base inside the rim and easy to grip while you tighten the valve nut and they are only £3 each)
4. They are on now, but four scoops of Stans in each and they are still leaking from the bead. More Stans, and a few more pedals around the doors should hopefully do it
5. The tubes are seriously heavy, I reckon I've lost 2lb off the bike. Maybe.
6. Those Aldi compressors, in a small garage, are ****in noisy
All compressors in a small garage are noisy - especially if you workshop is metal!
Was the difficulty on the 2016 Mulefut or the 2017 Duroc? I'm considering asking the bike shop it's being delivered to just to go straight ahead and set itup tubless if it's the 2017 ones 😆
I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who's ridden a Stache and a Jones Plus, and how they compare.
I'm looking for a deal on a 19,5 now, can be a 5, 7 or 9 but they seem thin on the ground at the moment.
Anyone seen a good deal at the mo?
Bream - Member
I'm looking for a deal on a 19,5 now, can be a 5, 7 or 9 but they seem thin on the ground at the moment.Anyone seen a good deal at the mo?
2016 models very thin on the ground as far as I could see. Not many dealers seems to have the 2017 but they can all get it fairly quickly but there isn't much (anything?) in the way of deals to be had that I could see.
Think I've found one now, just need to seal the deal 😉
[i]futon river crossing - Member
I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who's ridden a Stache and a Jones Plus, and how they compare.[/i]
That's a tough request
However, I can let you know after (hopefully if I can the Plus built up in time) tonight
I put a 9.8 carbon together for a customer this morning, it's a very nice bike.
@slowbloke It is the Mulefut rims.
Air/latex seemed to be holding for a day or two, but as of this morning it's now pissing out of the holes in the rims, under the tubeless tape and rim tape. Suspect I'll have to put more layers of tape on to set again.
Continually finding this thread annoying - still got just over a month till I'm home from Turkey and I'm riding my Superfly here, with a 650b+ Yari-forked Stache 5 sat at home in the UK, waiting for me to hop on! There's not much I want to leave Turkey for, but that and some GOOD singletrack is enough of a reason!
Great to read about peoples choices/experiments too.
I am the resurrection (I really am). Tubeless should not be that hard dude. My mulefuts on the stache were piss easy to set up. Couple wraps of duct tape (standard bonty valves) and a track pump was all I needed to seat the chupacabrabbbbbbs. Lube up the bead..... Get decent gorilla tape (find it better than stans) run right up to the bead lip but don't overlap.
^ I'm sure you're right, I've always used tubeless specific rims before now so never had to tape. I've done a lot of swearing.
The rims were pre-taped by Trek and I reckon the problem in my case is the bead is just a bit too loose on the Chupacabras, an extra couple of layers of tape would probably be better. I didn't want to though in case I wanted to put tyres on for winter which might (or might not) come with a much tighter bead...
If the next tyres I try are still very loose, then I'll get some more tape on there (I've got some Sun 48mm tape already, mixed reviews).
I am going to try today to set up tubeless, hope pre-taped???
leaking at the bead is usually in my experience one of following:
1) dirty rim 🙂 you should be ashamed lol
2) dirty tyre bead - easy solution
3) molding imperfections in tyre - sand down
4) tyre not fully seated - inflate higher PSI and bounce tyre
compressors are awful - use a track pump with a tank, like the specialized Air Tool Blast Tubeless Tire Setter or if stuck a co2 canister (remember to then let all air out as co2 allegedly does not play nice with latex
FWIW Gorilla Clear Repair Tape is better than regular Gorilla Tape IME - cloth-back tapes absorb the sealant and it breaks-down the glue.
+1 vote for clear gorilla, its also waaaaaaay lighter!
I tried this last week on my farley and I'm buggered if I can get the tyres back up as they are so loose on the rims that I cannot seat them. That's with a track pump, no chance, and an airshot.
I've seen adverts over there > for the new maxxis ranger 29+ tyre, but it only seems to be in the states at the moment....any uk dealers, or real world experience of them? They say they are for wet/mud/loam (whatever that is!)
Just ridden mine round Cannock and think it's time to consider something more grippy than the Chupacabras for winter.
For those still trying to hunt down the last of the rigid Stache 5s, Swinnerton Cycles (bike chase) have two in there in 18.5 and 17.5.
I'm currently finding my Maxxis Chronicle front, and Vee Rubber Trax Fatty on the back combo pretty good in wet and slippy conditions.
Thanks AJ, hadn't seen the Vee's.
New toy in waiting for me, a mate picked it up yesterday and I'll fetch it next week. Rather excited at the prospect 😀
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Hey that's my pic + dog must be copyrighted some where
Stop moaning, you rode my new bike before I did 😯