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New frame, cable ru...
 

[Closed] New frame, cable rub protection, recommendations

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[#4942788]

What should I buy to protect from cable rub ?


 
Posted : 09/03/2013 10:14 am
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Helicopter tape?


 
Posted : 09/03/2013 10:17 am
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I bought my tape from Convertape on eBay. It's a bit cheaper than through their direct website bizarrely. I looked into Viking tapes but as they charge £6 postage you've got to be buying loads to make it worthwhile. I did get some really thick stuff from another supplier but it didn't stick very well and thick tape lifts at the corners. Also, cut the tape to round radius corners so they don't catch & lift.


 
Posted : 09/03/2013 10:32 am
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Thx guys, found another thread with the info needed, ebayed and on route


 
Posted : 09/03/2013 10:47 am
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I bought some helitape from ebay.

Here:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heli-tape-Bike-Armour-racer-mtb-xc-road-bike-frame-protection-3-6-micron-FreeP-P-/261179460452?pt=UK_SportGoods_CyclAcces_RL&var=&hash=item3ccf824b64

Fast delivery and good quality. I got the thicker 6 micron. Put it on with a hairdryer.


 
Posted : 09/03/2013 10:48 am
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Bump!

Is there much difference in quality from the various ebay sellers? Or is it just a case of finding the best value? Finally, does anyone have any tips for best installation technique?

Cheers!


 
Posted : 09/04/2013 10:18 am
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The stuff I got was from Highaltitudebikes on Ebay. It's great quality thick stuff. I wanted to do the down tube and seat tube so I got the 50mm and 75mm wide versions. Not all that cheap, but it has stood the test of time well so far.

As for fitting it. You need scrupulously clean hands, you need to grow your finger nails enough to remove the backing paper and you need a bottle of IPA and a clean rag. You also need a good pair of sharp scissors and a hairdryer. Work in a place free of draughts and dust, to minimise the chances of getting dust under the tape.

Start with the bigger areas and measure carefully, cutting the tape with clean cuts and rounded corners. The rounded corners stop the tape from lifting at the edges and letting bits of dirt under the edge. Use the IPA to completely degrease the paint surface, and then warm the surface with the hairdrier. Using your nails peel back the backing paper and make sure you don't touch the adhesive side of the tape. Make sure you're lining it up properly, you only get one chance to get it right! If you're doing a long run like a seat tube, stick one end down and leave the backing paper on but rolled back if you get whae I mean. Now, switch on the hairdrier and use it to warm the tape as you smooth it down. It softens the adhesive and makes the tape more flexible, so you can mould it to the shape of the tubing. Smooth from one end and work your way slowly and carefully along the run, excluding air bubbles by pressing hard and pushing them towards the edges. Peel the backing paper back inch by inch as you work your way along to minimise the chances of grit and dust getting into the adhesive. Keep the tape warm until you have pressed the edges down as hard as you can with finger/thumb pressure. If you let it go cold and have to lift an edge to correct the way it sits it'll go out of shape and never really stay down properly.


 
Posted : 09/04/2013 12:09 pm