[Closed] New build - Foxy Mondraker Foxy Carbon

The half circle is to protect the frame from damage if the chain drops.

I have the aluminium Foxy which I run with a Gusset top guide.

It's possibly the best handling bike I have owned, the length takes a little getting used to but wow, it flies!

What forks wheels etc are you building it up with?

If fitting a guide you just remove the chain guard, it's there to stop the chain from jamming in the frame/linkage if you're not running a guide. I'd recommend a small chain guide as I lost the chain on my 2016 Foxy Carbon a number of times, though that could be that Raceface rings are just shite as a lot of folks I know with Raceface rings have the same problem. Either way, it's worth running a guide anyway. Also watch out the pivot bolts as they have a habit of coming loose, smothering them in loctite seemed to help but I still checked before and after every ride.

The retaining nut for the rear axle is the stupidest design ever, soon as you poke the axle through it pops out unless you hold it and good luck finding that in the under growth on the side of a trail (take it from me, it takes a while!). I found it means the axle does have a tendency to come undone as well, as it's not rigidly fixed in the dropout and with the speed the bike encourages it can rattle loose, you'll soon know because it feels like you have a rear flat, you don't it's just the wheel wobbling all over the shop!

They are very, very fast bikes, even when climbing if you build it relatively light, mine weighed around 28lbs even with a Fox 36 on it and on technical climbs they're insanely good, mine had an 11-42t cassette and 34t ring and it climbed most things I attempted, with something like an Eagle drivetrain it'd be a proper techy climb monster. That reminds me actually, the chainring clearance on the chainstay with the 34t ring was virtually non-existant, not an issue if you a 30/32t ring but I'd whack some extra protection on just in case. Like a steam train going down but not great on tight stuff and while not wanting to dampen your spirits on new bike day, you really do need to keep an eye on it maintenance wise, as they can quickly rattle apart if you're not careful. A fantastic bike let down by small details in my experience and weirdly, going against the longer/lower/slacker craze, I reckon it would be even better if it were a tad shorter!

Like a steam train going down but not great on tight stuff and while not wanting to dampen your spirits on new bike day, you really do need to keep an eye on it maintenance wise, as they can quickly rattle apart if you’re not careful

+1

Also make sure the lower links are well lubed

Another maintenance tip; Regularly remove and re-grease the collet axles or come bearing swap time you may find them seized in.

I was lucky and got away with a £40 bolt kit rather than a new back end!

That's lovely that is.

Let us know how it goes....

You have now got me windows shopping for a med/long travel bike....

I would strip all the suspension pivot bolts, grease the shank, blue loctite on the female threads. Prevents the bearings corroding to the pivot bolts and vibrating loose.

Wow thank you so much for the replies - I am in no rush so will try and take preventative maintenance measures to avoid sudden kinematics disassembly.

Lawman, sorry I don't get this bit

The retaining nut for the rear axle is the stupidest design ever, soon as you poke the axle through it pops out unless you hold it and good luck finding that in the under growth on the side of a trail (take it from me, it takes a while!).

The frame came with a DT Swiss 142 rear axle thing, what is the retaining nut ?

I will transfer my 160mm Yari and full XT 11sp groupset - I have just got delivery of DT Swiss E1650 wheels in 30mm (£170 after discount and cashback on Wiggle, WTF).

I won't use the 30mm supplied stem as it can't take my 35mm Easton Carbon bars so bought a £30 Raceface Chester 40mm jobby.

Next step is having the BB and headset cups pressed in by the LBS and I'll do the rest.

Quite tempted by a Oneup Comp 170mm dropper but not sure it will fit all the way into the frame. If it does it should be at the perfect height without any post showing. The remote is available is Ispec II which would be neat too.

Sounds like a nice build, mine is the XR and came with Fox 36s, the Yaris should work well with it.

I changed the 125mm for a 150 and is perfect, im 5'10" on a medium

Don't forget to post pics when its finished!

I was going to buy the simple Oneup ISCG05 chain guide but they also do a version with a bash guard (which kind of also replaces the OE half ring thing) - will that be even better in terms of frame protection or does the simple guide guarantee 100% no chain drop ?  https://www.oneupcomponents.com/products/bashguide-iscg05

Perhaps the bash guard is simply to protect the chain ring ?

Lawman, sorry I don’t get this bit

The retaining nut for the rear axle is the stupidest design ever, soon as you poke the axle through it pops out unless you hold it and good luck finding that in the under growth on the side of a trail (take it from me, it takes a while!).

The frame came with a DT Swiss 142 rear axle thing, what is the retaining nut ?

It's a very simple design, almost like an after thought. Basically the frame itself is not threaded and nor is the mech hanger/dropout, so the the axle threads into a flat, circular insert that just sits inside the rear driveside dropout. There is nothing there to hold it in, other than the axle when it's threaded together, so when the axle is not there it will just drop out. See pic below:

It's the same design they used on the alloy one, as covered by Bikeradar here -  https://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/news/article/bikeradar-staff-bike-mondraker-foxy-xr-43386/

New Foxy's have a better system, but that first Gen carbons and alloys had this system and say it's annoying is an understatement!

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New Foxy’s have a better system, but that first Gen carbons and alloys had this system and say it’s annoying is an understatement!

Gotcha - but mine is different as it's threaded into the mech hanger and can't easily fall out.

Ahhh maybe they changed the design for '17 then. In which case, one less thing to worry about! I could never figure why they went with the first solution, it just seemed daft to have something so simple that could ruin a ride!

nice

Looks just like the Dune frame I just bought

Get it from Tredz?

Could someone suggest any good heli tape or should I protect the frame with something more robust ? (I assume a bash guard only protects the ring ?).

nice

Looks just like the Dune frame I just bought

Get it from Tredz?

No from Biketart - if worked out at £1675 after discount and cashback. Which I thought was a brilliant price including next day delivery.

so when the axle is not there it will just drop out.

Happened to my Rocky Mountain, was just about to close the boot of the car and drive off and my kid said "What's that?" it was the axle nut lying in the driveway! I've stuck it on now. Didn't see any reason not to.

that wheel just made me do a funny turn. What a lovely looking hub! Black n silver see (there was a thread) 🙂

I'd love to hear from anyone who knows how to thread the cables/lines through the frame:

- I should be Ok with the gear cable with an old cable, string, hoover.

- No idea how to deal with the rear brake hose, never done that. Do you need to empty it or disconnect at one end and block it ?

- I don't even know where the cable for the dropper is supposed to route through

The dropper hose goes straight out of the bottom past the shock, mine has a small hole for a cable tie on the frame.

I have pushed a gear cable through a frame before and used a strong magnet to guide it through the slots and then pushed the brake hose up it then removed and rebled the brake, bit of  a faff but worked.

Looks lovely, that does.

Cheers Nige ! I makes sense now, will be doing some fishing about. Have ordered a Oneup 170mm dropper with a Ispec remote. Pure vanity as my current Brand X 120mm is fine.

Hoping the new dropper will go all the way into the frame and I like the idea of a 2 clamp clean cockpit, purely for aesthetics. How very sad.

Nothing to add  about cable routing, I'm still buying bikes that don't have it, other than looks like a pretty bloody nice frame, you must be well chuffed with that.

Resolved the silver hub "issue". Halfway house now. I have too much time on my hands.

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bloody nice frame, you must be well chuffed with that.

Yes Nick. Insane amount of money coming from hardtails though. It's my first ever FS and first ever non-Max mountain bike after 24 years of mountain-biking (x3 Sunns and x3 Commencals).

Oneup 170mm dropper with a Ispec remote. Pure vanity as my current Brand X 120mm is fine.Hoping the new dropper will go all the way into the frame

Interested to know if that goes in!

My 150 only just did - literally to the mm

I hope you are quite tall

– No idea how to deal with the rear brake hose, never done that. Do you need to empty it or disconnect at one end and block it ?

Take the lever off, you'll need to chop a small amount off the hose to take the nut and olive off, feed the hose through the swing arm then into the underside of the down tube. Make sure you leave a loop of hose between the swing arm and down tube (like pic below) and test it at full compression. Feed hose out of right side of head tube, reconnect lever (you'll need a new insert and olive) Bleed and your good to go.

Interested to know if that goes in!

My 150 only just did – literally to the mm

I hope you are quite tall

6ft. Was that on a L Foxy ? I only compared the stand over heights of the old vs new frame and added existing gap on my 120. That will only work if both posts have similar configurations... If not, One Up sell plastic shims to reduce max travel.

Take the lever off, you’ll need to chop a small amount off the hose to take the nut and olive off, feed the hose through the swing arm then into the underside of the down tube. Make sure you leave a loop of hose between the swing arm and down tube (like pic below) and test it at full compression. Feed hose out of right side of head tube, reconnect lever (you’ll need a new insert and olive) Bleed and your good to go.

Thanks. So I need 1 new olive and one new "plunger" (not sure what it's called, it looks like a cable end thing but with a hole). I have threaded a bit of string to attach to the end of the hose to pull it through but the hole at the top of the frame is smaller than at the bottom so can't I detach the hose from the caliper instead and leave the lever alone ? It might thread easier as I know already have an outer cable out of that side at the top, partially obstructing the already small hole...

Digging the stealth decals.

I love my Foxy Carbon. I've had it a couple of years now and I don't think I'd ever part with it willingly.

I do echo the other comments regarding bearings and bolts coming loose. Basically keep an eye on them.  I would budget for replacing them annually. My LBS (Ride-On Rawtenstall and also a Mondraker dealer) changed mine only last week. They put in upgraded bearings which are stronger and more reliable.  It was a cheap enough job too.

If anyone has a Foxy on their radar don't let the bearings thing put you off, they really are fabulous bikes.

Good to hear. How much did it cost in total for parts and labour for the updated bearings ?

The Foxy is the most beautiful bike I've ever seen. Still want.

I've had my Dune XR for very nearly 3 years now, and never had a bearing come loose, but the bike gets regular spanner checks, so maybe i've just been lucky?

I fitted the pukka Invisframe kit to the bare frame, and although expensive, that kit fits perfectly, is easy to fit, and protects and expensive frame!  They also did me some color matched fork decals because i have a 180mm lyrik on the front of my bike:

[img] :large[/img]

Looking good ! That front travel must be plush and probably yields 64 or 64 HA.

I have that set up on my new carbon Dune. 180 lyrik on the front and the angle headset to reduce by 1 degree. Feels nice but haven't ridden her properly yet - Ard Rock Enduro will be the first test 🙂

I ran with the std head angle (straight cups) in the Alps, with the short chainstay chips in, and despite the length of the bike (it's a L, so with the 180mm fork, the wheel base is up towards 1.3m) and got round more tight hairpins that i ever have before, simply because the bike is so stable it's so easy to nose endo the back around!  There was one super tight 180deg RH hairpin that i even managed to, end 180 round to the left, lofting the rear wheel round and out over the "void" and then just straight ride out  😉

As i'm a skinny git, i run the fork pretty soft (45psi + 2 tokens), and with 180mm of travel available, just let it ramp up later in the travel, which gives really nice front end grip, particularly in the wet. And as the reach is long, it seems to avoid feeling too divey on hard braking, as long as you move your weight back as the brake loads are applied.

Offer the cable up before you cut it.... and check it's going to be long enough...

No from Biketart – if worked out at £1675 after discount and cashback. Which I thought was a brilliant price including next day delivery.

This sounds so tempting....

I'm half inclined to put the Revelation 130's back on the T-130 ... stick a 160mm airshaft into the non-Boost RCT3 Pikes and use some existing wheels and use this on uplift and big days and keep the T-130 for pottering round Swinley etc.

If I pull the group set off my current XC bike that doesn't get used much ... and the set of Zee cranks I've got I think I'd only need a dropper.

On the other hand I keep looking at a Al Strive or Al Capra... and somewhat reluctantly going onto Boost ... knowing the Capra is more bike than I can probably use... but at the same time thinking if going from 130mm rear travel to 140mm is worth doing???

Either way I guess it's a cheaper mid-life crisis response than buying a sports car?

This sounds so tempting….

I’m half inclined to put the Revelation 130’s back on the T-130 … stick a 160mm airshaft into the non-Boost RCT3 Pikes and use some existing wheels and use this on uplift and big days and keep the T-130 for pottering round Swinley etc.

If I pull the group set off my current XC bike that doesn’t get used much … and the set of Zee cranks I’ve got I think I’d only need a dropper.

On the other hand I keep looking at a Al Strive or Al Capra… and somewhat reluctantly going onto Boost … knowing the Capra is more bike than I can probably use… but at the same time thinking if going from 130mm rear travel to 140mm is worth doing???

Either way I guess it’s a cheaper mid-life crisis response than buying a sports car?

I’ve just bought an Capra AL 29 and I love it! Definitely more bike than I need but I don’t think that’s always a bad thing, I wouldn’t want to do a 25k trail centre ride on it but riding my local trails and old dh tracks it’s anazing.

Mondraker looks ace by the way OP

Yes I also considered the Jeffsy as they are such good value. Building it myself (however slow and haphazard a process for me) is very satisfying too. It's mine with all my favourite bits.

I built my Dune from a frame, simply to get the bike i wanted!  And by some careful spec choices, for within about £50 of the list price of the std bike, i have a unique built, with 11 speed 11-50 (shark cog) Di2 shifting, 180mm travel, and 203 Saint/XTR hybrid brakes (saint calipers, xtr levers),  XX1 cranks,, 800mm bars etc

The main change was deleting the Fox 36 for the Lyrik, and that saved enough money for the other juicy bits like the Di2

maxtorque

Interesting - I have also been messing about with the forks...they feel not so great with the recommended pressures. I am 77kg and dropped to about 52 PSI I think but running no tokens currently. I also swapped the spring and damper out for 2019 versions which has improved it.

I fitted the slackset as I thought it would drop the BB back down to where it should be after fitting the longer forks...

I went for a medium as I am only 5'8. Coming from a Medium Geometron which had a ridiculous 500+ reach - the 470 on this feels much better but still nice and long.

Alps trip straight after Ard rock so will be able to find some nice tight switchbacks to test her out on. I also kept the short wheelbase chips as I prefer short chain stays and long top tubes.

Yes I also considered the Jeffsy as they are such good value. Building it myself (however slow and haphazard a process for me) is very satisfying too. It’s mine with all my favourite bits.

Very good point... though in my case I guess I'd be building it myself with all the left-over bits...

In your case your going from zero to 140 on the back... whereas I'd be looking at 130 to 140 ...  and in all probability 140mm would probably be enough .. I mean so far 130 was enough... I just suffer "travel envy" when I'm sticking my bike in an uplift and everyone else's is bigger than mine.

I guess also I haven't had an actual NEW bike since the 80's.... and to some extent think maybe I buy one now before I'm any older..??? 😀

Gotta say though your's is looking really nice... and it was your initial thread pushed me into being more likely to go and buy something than not...

"How much did it cost in total for parts and labour for the updated bearings ?"

If I recall they said the bearings would be about £30 so prob about an hours labour on top. Sorry I didn't get an itemised bill as I had a lower leg service and the bike got it's annual good going over.

Slight hiccup - the 170mm OneUp post turned up - I had measured the clearance in the frame but not inserted a post as a test (stupidly and despite using a rigid post hold the frame in the stand).

The Oneup post doesn't go deep enough, it goes to 190mm when I need 230mm, which in turn defeats the object.

There seems to be more space but the post hits what looks like 2 tabs, but they look like off-cuts rather than being there on purpose. But I am not sure actually as there are 2 of them !

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Does anyone know if they are there by accident (I doubt it actually). I guess they may protect from damage as the tube eventually changes shape.

nickfrog

I had exactly this with my carbon Dune. the dropper post wouldn't go in far enough. After lots of swearing in the garage I found if I turned the saddle 90 degrees I could wiggle it in further as the cable connector was at a different angle. then when I turned it back to straight I heard a worrying snapping sound! Whatever was in the way is now gone and my seat post fits....just!

I don't think whatever broke was structural - probably just left over from the moulding process. It seemed a very thin flap of carbon. That's what I'm telling myself anyway!

ndthornton

Very tempted to go for it but it's not the connector thing that is being blocked, it's both sides of the walls. Very tempted to try and snap those things with force but then again it's £1,675 and you can't find them at that money anymore...

nickfrog

My next step was going to be to contact Mondraker to ask how far the seat post is meant to go in...and if mine was out of spec send it back. Having a 150 dropper was a deal breaker for me. I think this piece of information should be available before buying a frame so you can work it all out from the seat tube length. I was certainly surprised it didn't go in further even given the interrupted seat tube.

I don't know how carbon frames are made but leaving excess material in a crucial place like that seems sloppy to me....don't they ream them out (or carbon equivalent process?)

Does anyone know if they are there by accident (I doubt it actually). I guess they may protect from damage as the tube eventually changes shape.

Just a suggestion but do they line up with the intersecting top tube and upper pivot?  Are they where it's been glued together and were part of the manufacturing process?

I agree it should be in the specs. It does correspond to the intersection of tubes indeed and the start of a vertical "seam/weld" where the tube gets wider going towards the BB shell. My friend has the same frame in the same size and has a Reverb 150mm all the way in. I doubt those have less than 190mm stack. I have written to Silverfish. I am about to go out and buy a nice round file from Toolstation if I get the all clear as I don't want to return the frame as I bought the last one at that price.

Could the tabs be there to stop a regular post being dropped too far down and damaging the shock?

Could the tabs be there to stop a regular post being dropped too far down and damaging the shock?

There is no hole for the seat tube to fall through into the shock

They could be to stop you damaging the carbon at the bottom but my Dune does not have these and its exactly the same design. The flap of carbon I encountered was pointing vertically upwards - the sides were smooth.

It looks like it could be to do with the interface between the top tube and the seat tube. It they are less then a couple of mm in thickness I would be tempted to file them down as they are unlikely to be structural.

Yes they are probably 1mm.

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It was going so well. No idea how to position the rear mech - it either hits the chainstay (see photo) or putting the tab the other side of the hanger result in an even more impossible position.

Could anyone point where I have gone wrong - is it possible that the frame/hanger is SRAM only or should that make no difference ?

All sorted - the mech bolt came loose.

So the Oneup component 170mm deffo doesn't fit but not due to the tabs but due to clearance - I need another 20mm or so of penetration and it's not there as bending the outer - I'll try the 150mm if they agree to swap...

Main problem is that the existing rear hose is too shorter : I had bought an olive and plunger thingy but what else so I do know in addition to new longer hose ? How do you swap hoses at the caliper ?

Main problem is that the existing rear hose is too shorter : I had bought an olive and plunger thingy but what else so I do know in addition to new longer hose ? How do you swap hoses at the caliper ?

For Shimano XT? Make sure you buy the correct hose with a banjo on the end, just unbolt the old one and bolt the new one on, then cut to length.

Thanks : does that work ?  http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-xtr-m9000-m9020-m987-disc-brake-hose/rp-prod130934

One of the Q&A says "please re-use your original banjo bolt" - is that in line with your explanations bigyan ?

Edit, actually this seems easier:  http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-xtr-xt-slx-alfine-bh90-disc-brake-hose/rp-prod67212?utm_campaign=bazaarvoice&utm_medium=Default&utm_source=AskAndAnswer&utm_content=Default

Nick, is your hose long enough to go external ?? (Just as an interim?)

Buy two rear hoses... (at discount)... then keep a spare. you can always cut down the rear hose for a front.. sods law is the day you damage a hose you end up paying full price... and waiting.

I always try and leave a bit of slack when fitted as well so if you have to change the olive you don't run out of hose.

Useful if you want to play with bar length or add 10mm of travel etc. (I have one mate who's hose is so tight he can't even play with brake lever angle)

Swapping is pretty easy... you just unscrew the banjo... stick on the new one (not forgetting the little rubber seals come with it)... when you undo it it's actually real obvious...

Cheers Steve. Appreciated. I am probably going to wait until I get the hose this week. My friend has lent me his old Whyte 130 29 in the meantime so not too bad

Bike now completed. Sat on it for the first time having pre-set the shock carefully and a lot of pink liquid gushed out of the shock. Not impressed.

Does anyone know what it could be be and what to do ?

I though those were quality products but the CF bit in the seat tube that obstructed and that I had to file and now this tells me otherwise - are Silverfish a customer friendly company ? I hate the word but I feel like I should get some compensation after spending so much money and not having a product really fit for purpose...Or perhaps the discount reflected the fact this was just an duff frame and shock ? Good job I didn't pay £3k. Still I miss my hardtail lol!

Clearly talking to myself now but it would appear that the shock is second hand. At best.

Pretty shocking as I would not have considered it if I had known that

Send the shock back for warranty. Not a big issue.

what makes you think it's s/h?

This:

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Actually it would have been a big deal for me had the shock been new but now it probably explains why it did what it did after travelling 3 inches in distance indoors. I never noticed until I took the bike outside for the first time today.

Will have an interesting conversation with the supplier on monday. Difficult to guess at what stage of the supply chain this could have happened.

might be s/h might not be. i'm going for ham fisted fitting of the shock (not you) unless you fitted it. My mate did the same to his shock when he got back from a service, it's far enough down on the shaft not to cause issues.

Must be so disappointed!

Hopefully you'll have a good outcome with Silverfish!

Was the pink liquid you mentioned not excess grease just coming out the shock?

Has anymore come out since?

Fox uses red damping oil, float fluid in the air chamber is blue.

If you have issues with a brand new product I would contact wherever you bought it from. Frame issues are not that uncommon, depending on the issues I would request a replacement if unfit for purpose or with cosmetic issues the manufacturer would often offer a discount or free product and the customer could choose.

As you filed the frame without contacting them I dont know what they will say.

Just don’t mention that you filed the frame.  No one will probably know. They could be arses if they want to saying the warranty has been invalidated.

I thought it would be excess grease but then at eaxh slight compression more oil comes out. The shock came fitted. I don't see how those marks got there apart from it being in a vice ?

I would find it a bit of a coincidence that I have effectively 3 separate issues (bizarre marks on shock, the shock blows immediately and the seat post thing). It's the last one available in the size anywhere I think. They probably put together any old crap they had, flogged them cheap and hoped for the best. That really gives the brand a great image lol. It's still a very immature industry in terms of customer centricity.

I'll update the thread with the proposed outcom, if any.

I just won't be happy with a shock repair / warranty claim.

OP, stick with it!  IME, Silverfish are pretty decent, they sourced parts missing from my Mondy (anti-chain slap rubber protector) and a spare Derailure hanger in very short time without any issues!

When you build a bike from a frame, especially when you are using "non-standard" parts as compared to the OE build they you need to expect the odd issue.

When it's built, you'll soon forget about any of these minor teething problems!

(i'm not going to even try to count how many hrs i spent on my custom XTR/XX1/Di2/SharkCog drivetrain install. I was told it was impossible, but went ahead and did it anyway....  😉

They probably put together any old crap they had, flogged them cheap and hoped for the best.

They probably didn't and Silverfish are a pretty decent company. I know you're disappointed, but they'll see you right.

I just won’t be happy with a shock repair / warranty claim.

bear in mind that if they can fix they are allowed to offer you that as resolution to the problem, and TBH why wouldn't you, if the shock works after they've sorted it?

They probably didn’t and Silverfish are a pretty decent company. I know you’re disappointed, but they’ll see you right.

I just won’t be happy with a shock repair / warranty claim.

bear in mind that if they can fix they are allowed to offer you that as resolution to the problem, and TBH why wouldn’t you, if the shock works after they’ve sorted it?

For absolute clarity Nick. I bought a new frame and shock.

If you're happy with second hand when you buy new, I have no issues with that. Doesn't work for me though.

All the evidence that I have points towards my theory of grade B parts put together, but if it doesn't then that's even worse, and means they have extremely poor QC.

As I said, it's impossible to say at what point of the supply chain this may have happened : factory ? Silverfish ? Shop ? Someone quite clearly put a dodgy shock in that frame. The only thing I know for sure is that it's not me, as I don't even know how to do that (the fact that it took me 2 weeks to build a bike should be testament to that LOL).

If it's sorted to my legitimate satisfaction then I am sure this will be a distant memory but if not then I'll regret not buying an off the shelf Spectral. No wonder this industry is moving towards a shorter supply chain model....

If the shock is knackered already without having been ridden they should replace or fix. I haven’t bought anything from Silverfish but I have come across them through work and their warranty process seemed pretty good. They’re the sole uk distributor for Mondraker I’d have thought and they’ll be paid by the manufacturer to look after uk warranty claims. Imagine they’ll go back to Fox (who they also distribute for) relating to the shock indirectly or directly.

Fair comment Joe and the sheer fact that SF are also Fox UK helps although my issue is not related to warranty arrangements but to the fact the shock is not new. I genuinely thought I was buying new as no where did it say otherwise in the collateral or invoice.

I have no interest in having a second hand shock repaired under warranty as it shouldn't have been there in the first place.

define "new"

All you know is that there has been a seal failure on the shock.  No more, no less.

Send it back, get it fixed, ride it, enjoy it!

(btw, a shock is "second hand" the first time it is compressed, so a new shock becomes s/h the first time you pedal the bike out of the shop, does that stop you riding the bike again? no, of course not! )

What a stupid post. You perfectly know what I mean by new.

Many thanks for the useful and constructive contributions from others though.

Hate to say it, but if it's the "marks" around the eyelet you're complaining about, that's just how they are I'm afraid. Every Fox CTD/DPS/Float X/DPX2 shock I've seen has been the same. It's just how they're finished. Have seen shocks blow before they've even been ridden, not uncommon. Silverfish should warranty the shock, but yeah those "marks" are completely normal and it's in no way a second hand shock.

Some of the marks are probably from fitting around the eyelet etc - I wouldn’t worry about those. Less keen on what looks like a bit of costing missing on he shock shaft - at max compression is that inside the shock seal? That one shouldn’t be there - but it’ll be hard to say if it was done posting tonyou, or whilst in your possession. Tricky.

If the shock is leaking considerable oil / grease I’d think it needs warrantying either way. With a bit of luck they’ll just swap it out for a new one.