Lawma91, I thought that as well,. I thought the OP was referring to the flakes of metal around the bushes?
I don't think it's S/H either but OP is probably pretty disappointed with what's turning into a bit of an epic, and is clearly upset (as would we all I think)
I will compare to another Fox shock and remain impartial about it. There seems to be a mark / line where perhaps the machining stops and the material is therefore "raw". So I will gladly admit it is new. The shop will have it collected to service it although I assume this should be done by SF ?
Taking the emotion and disappointment out of it, it may be that I simply have to accept this is just coincidental and I have been unlucky. I find it difficult however to adjust my expectations down to what remains in my opinion an immature industry in terms of customer care.
If I buy a RS Monarch RT3 in the same size 200x57, does it fit straight in ? Perhaps I could do that and start riding. And then sell the original new/used/god knows shock when it's back from repairs ? How much would I get for it ? £50 or £250 ? I don't know this market but I know I can get the RS shock for £225 and I have never had issues with RS over the past 25 years.
have you spoken to silverfish yet?
OP, just get it repaired, you don't need to buy a new shock, silverfish should be able to sort it out for you.
My contract is with the shop, not Silverfish. The process is for the shop to organise the warranty work with SF I believe hence them asking me to return the shock to them (the shop).
A moot point as the shock bolts are not moving, however much force is applied.
I am not prepared to apply more force even using a longer lever and I don't even know why I would have to do that.
I have just emailed the shop to organise my LBS to do all the work (that shop is also a EVIL dealer so they probably have an account with SF anyway). We'll see what they say but not prepared to take a risk to break something after the hassle I have had so far for no fault of my own.
I really don't care anymore tbh. I was joking about missing my HT. I am not joking now :-).
You won't get a Monarch in there, not with a DebonAir air can at least, the shock shuttle is super tight so only fairly slim shocks will fit. Just get the shock warrantied, if it's completely borked as you say they should resolve it quickly. Kudos for building it yourself, but to be fair I think taking it to the LBS from the start would have been a quicker, less stressful route to take, these issues would have been spotted earlier and it could have been sorted and you could be riding by now.
The 2017 entry level bike using my frame had a Monarch RL but not sure if that's smaller than a Monarch RT3.
Does anyone familiar with my frame know if I should mount my M8000 XT rear mech direct mount or conventional ?
Shifting is poor so hoping it should go direct mount.
Shock is with my LBS who are sending back to supplying shop or SF so fine tuning the bike in a anticipation lol.
I would have thought that a flagship brand new crabon Mondraker would be Direct mount, but nothing would surprise me any longer with this build so who knows! haha
right so, You can modify a direct mount mech to conventional by removing the b knuckle (or link) but I don't know if the opposite is true (ie fit a B knuckle to an older conventional mech to make it direct mount) Seeing as direct mount has been a thing since ohh, 2014? or so, I'd be surprised it you could find a mech old enough to try.
If the mech you have is conventional, and you've said it may be bent anyway, buy a new direct mount one?
Cheers. I thought the mech was the same and you just remove the knucke ?
I don't really want to do that unless I am sure... It can't be such flagship if they can't even publish the basic specs of the frame online...
Looking at maxtorgue's picture of his on page one, it's a direct mount.
What a stupid post. You perfectly know what I mean by new.
Many thanks for the useful and constructive contributions from others though.
Bloody hell, that’s nice to say to a fellow member helping you with your bargain build.
Get shock sorted, ride, enjoy and you’ll forget all about your worries.
Since when is a DM mech hanger the mark of a flagship? Last time I checked that "standard" only fits Shimano mechs.
Since when is a DM mech hanger the mark of a flagship?
who said it was.?
what stage are you at now OP?
Hi. The shock is in Wales at the Fox service centre so the bike is still in my office and I have re-torqued everything 3 times out of boredom. It's quite frustrating but not much I can do. It should be returned next week to my LBS and they'll fit.
In the meantime I have bought the DT Swiss Torque Caps which are compatible with my 350 hubs.
I don't have the tools to swap them nor any of the local shops. Has any one successfully done it without the DT Swiss tool ?
Bloody hell, that’s nice to say to a fellow member helping you with your bargain build.
TBH I understand his frustration here... last NEW bike I had was in the 1980's.... and I keep thinking I'm due a new one soon... I would be a huge deal for me... (I just a few weeks ago bought a used frame - actually a lot to do with Nick's post and then relenting on the new and paid £240) - reused wheels, forks etc. (I literally only had to buy bars, seat post (donated) and a hydraulic hose) and after swapping parts about other bikes still have the other bikes... Anyway I'd be pretty pissed if I'd gone through what Nick has.
My used one was built the next night... new airshaft order from a Welsh mail order place got screwed up then I was on holidays.(though I was half expecting it).. came back and J-Tech shipped me next day... so the whole thing was built in a couple of days elapsed time and I even got to ride it at the lower travel on the fork...
Get shock sorted, ride, enjoy and you’ll forget all about your worries.
One way or another yep....
I'd just try and get a used (temporary) replacement ... eBay/Pinkbike/classifieds whatever and get out and ride.
You can only mount the mech using the "direct mount" method if the hanger is specific for direct mount. You can't just remove the B-knuckle and it's suddenly direct mount. You need a specific hanger for it to work and from memory I don't think Mondraker make them, so it's conventional all the way I'm afraid. Below diagram shows it best:
As you can see above, the 2 different hangers are very different, but place the mech in pretty much the same place when the B-knuckle is removed. The Direct Mount hanger & modified mech is just stiffer than usual, I doubt even if you could swap the hanger it would make much difference.
If you are having so many issues with the build and are getting frustrated, I really would get an LBS to give it a full run-over, from experience getting frustrated when building a bike is the worst thing to do and can only make things worse for you...
In the meantime I have bought the DT Swiss Torque Caps which are compatible with my 350 hubs.
I don’t have the tools to swap them nor any of the local shops. Has any one successfully done it without the DT Swiss tool ?
You can do it without the DT tools, just depends what you have lying about to substitute (socket set, alloy tube etc)
DT video so you can see what you need to do;
Thanks Steve and Lawman - I am pretty confident with my build actually although until I can shake it down I won't know... I have has the use of my friend's T129 in the meantime so not too bad.
The rear hanger is definitely not direct mount and the (potentially) poor shifting looks like its due to the way the mech is positioned on the frame with no alternatives, ie the 2 bolts should be more of less horizontal ideally but there is no way this can be achieved due to the shape of the hanger. I have half decent shifting now so not too bad.
I have resolved the seat post thing by using my old Brand X dropper and sold the One Up cost-neutrally. I kept the remote which is great and gives me 1 clamp on either side.
I think it's too late to buy a spare shock as it should be back Wednesday next week.
Where I am a little bitter is that I could have sent the frame back because of the seat tube defect but I have mitigated everyone's loss all the way up to the supply chain instead so perhaps they could have sent a new shock as a partial recompense for me saving everyone money/hassle/reverse logistic. I tried to convey that message but no one is really listening, as I said this is still a highly immature industry in terms of customer care.
Btw, I can now see that the shock is probably not second hand, I am quite surprised at the penny pinching in not machining it all the way for an "upmarket" product.
Cheers bigyan !
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Does this pic mean you’re ready to roll?
Probably not...
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Given there's a crimp on the end of the dropper cable, please don't say you're leaving it like that?!
No but didn't want to leave it bare. I am pretty sure the dropper will have to go up so I wanted to keep some headroom to pull the cable a bit. Will put a black crimp when ready anyway !
Where I am a little bitter is that I could have sent the frame back because of the seat tube defect
Did you ever get confirmation that it was a defect?
No but the retailer did offer to take it back - Silverfish eventually tried to insert a dropper in one of their identical frames and got down to 230mm whereas mine could only go as far as 190mm.
Fair play. Sounds like you’ll soon be out on it when the shock arrives and I’m sure it’ll be worth the wait!
Actually the harder this has been the more I will enjoy the bike ! It's like dogs loving bone marrow not despite it being difficult to get to but because it's difficult to get to.
^^ agreed it's a really nice feel to ride a bike you've personally spec'd and built 🙂
Cheers Max. I have built my last 4 bikes and learnt a lot along the way too. The only thing I can't do myself is press the headset cups and BB cups (if any). Obviously failing to safely remove the shock is a bit embarrassing but it's my first FS...
Fair enough , it sure looks tasty
Thanks!
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Shock back on Thursday.
Shake down last night at Whiteways with a fellow Mondraker rider.
It went fine, nothing fell off. What a quick bike. So comfy too.
Weight delta compared to the previous frame (Commy META AM HT) is only 700g which is +800g for the frame and -100g for the wheels (the "only" 2 changes).
200psi for 25% sag and I used 90% of the travel so spot on. Even the good old Yaris are not too overwhelmed by the rest of the chassis...
Looking great, glad it all came together in the end
I meant to post pics of the finished article, including the donor hardtail. Total weight with pedals is 12.9kgs which is only 600g more than the Commencal HT although the new wheels are lighter so actual delta is 750g.
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Full spec:
Foxy Carbon 140mm frame with Fox Float Factory series Kashima shock 200x57
Yari 160mm
XT M8000 group with 10-42 SRAM cassette, Oneup oval 30t ring and Oneup chain device
DT Swiss E1650 (350 straight pull on EX511 in 30mm internal)
Schwalbe 2.6 NN EVO Trailstar front and Pacestar rear
Eston Haven 760mm carbon bars on Raceface Chester stem with Easton grips
Brand X 120mm dropper with Oneup remote (dropper to be upgraded to Oneup 150mm)
203mm front and 180mm rear Icetech rotors
👍
sweet, grips are giving me itch...
Ah yes I have a pair of black Raceface half Nelsons to fit
Now on 2.8 front, the largest tyre that I can get away with in the non boost Yaris.
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Nice tyre choice. I think I saw this bike recently at an event....