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Just changed my XT 4 pot to Tech 4 E4. very impressed with them. A big step up from the old Tech 3's that were on my previous bike.
I’m running some Brake Stuff thicker rotors with my Code Calipers, but one set is super old & done a bucket load of riding, so they are a bit sticky after many years service.
The extra thickness does mean the setup needs to be perfect to work, but thankfully the rotors are not like SRAM or Shimano which warp if you look at them funny.
Looking at the Cascade Calipers to swap them out to, as I recently did a full rebuild of the levers. They claim a bit more free space to allow for some flex in the system, but we will see.
Re. thicker rotors not fitting in older brakes, I had a similar problem with a pretty tired set of guides when I went from centreline rotors to thicker Magura ones. They rubbed constantly. Resetting pistons, cleaning, lubing, bleeding etc didn't work, but changing the pistons and seals sorted it completely. And made them feel a whole lot better in the process. I guess it was either tired seals or the piston had worn fractionally and don't then retract far enough to accommodate the thicker rotors. After that they were a doddle to set up and felt like new again.
Might be worth a try?
Only downside is there’s not that many people make pads for them and Formula pads are pretty expensive.
EBC pads for my R1's were £10 recently.
I swapped out my year old SRAM Guide RE's from my HT for the 10 year old ones off an old bike. So much better.
well impressed with the Magura Mt7s until i changed the pads. would try and get hold of some proper Magura ones next time rather than the [not even that] cheap ones i got from Nukeproof. i would swap the brittle levers too if they didnt feel so nice. ive got both of my lever blades held in lace woith little twigs where the pin used to be.. tried replacing twigs with nut and bolt but they didnt last. twigs ftw.
EBC pads for my R1’s were £10 recently.
How do you get an R1 pad into a Cura 4?
Personally thinking MT7 Pro, had them before and they’re good, but i prefer natural 1 finger levers,
I'm not an expert in Magura brakes, but I understood you could buy the HC version and have the 1 finger levers from stock?
glad to hear its not just me then that has struggled with alignment on these new thicker rotors - obviously made worse by the fact im constantly taking wheels in and out will not help!
but it wasnt a issue on the centreline ones, so can only assume its the thicker ones causing the headache - BTW this isnt just a bit of rubbing - its the annoying tick on every rotation, which is off putting but also alas the wheel doesnt spin very freely, ie basically comes to a stop after about 5 rotations.....so causing an amount of drag too
its more the constant ticking and having to re align them that is the issue, as stated above, maybe ill go back to the standard rotors to combat this - but i do like the feel of the hs2 rotors, they do offer a bit more bite and power
im looking at magura mt7 pro and hayes dominion a4 - i can get the maguras from the local shop i think which is handy, where as the hayes are seemingly only available now outside the uk which isnt ideal if anything goes wrong
have got me intrugied by the new hope e4's but damn they are expensive when you factor in rotors and mounts etc too
Just a note on the Maguras, is it a truth that they have 'not great' lever end reliability?
only 2 riding mates have had them, and they have both experienced (MT7s and MT5s) brake levers that would, without provocation, pish out the fluid at really unhelpful moments. Like, when you've just got the cable car up the top of an alp. it's happened more than once, put me off them.
but, anecdotal. apart form that they were absolute monster brakes!
have got me intrugied by the new hope e4’s but damn they are expensive when you factor in rotors and mounts etc too
Use what you have then.... 🙂
How do you get an R1 pad into a Cura 4?
I was responding to a question regarding "Formula" pads.
Steve at iCycles is the man for Formula brakes etc.
benpinnick
Full Member
have got me intrugied by the new hope e4’s but damn they are expensive when you factor in rotors and mounts etc tooUse what you have then…. 🙂
do they play well with sram rotors? especially these being thicker?
Mine are fine.
not so much Shimano rotors. They eat Shimano rotors.
I was responding to a question regarding “Formula” pads.
Steve at iCycles is the man for Formula brakes etc.
You were quoting me and I was talking about original Cura 4 pads being expensive.
However I’ve been trying the Cura 4’s and really like them.
Only downside is there’s not that many people make pads for them and Formula pads are pretty expensive.
Thanks for the Steve tip but I don't really need any help with my brakes.
Unless he can sell me some Cura 4 pads cheap. 😀
Evo cycles had hayes in stock when I spoke to them a couple of weeks ago.
Don't know what you want to pay for cura 4 pads but I bought some extra galfer ones at an ok price from bikester when I bought the brakes. Might be worth a look.
For anyone running the new Hope Tech 4 E4 or V4 do they still constantly chirp even in the dry? Love the simplicity and power of my Shimano 4 pots but getting fed up with leaky diaphragm’s in the master cylinder and have broken 2 levers in crashes. So thinking of trying the new Hopes but my old tech 3 E4’s were underwhelming and constantly noisy.
I’m running the previous Tech 3 levers on both bikes, V4 calipers with 220/200 discs (the new thicker non-floating ones) on my Levo and E4 calipers with 203/183 floating discs on my Moxie. I think I’ve got the new purple pads (are they some kind of sintered/organic hybrid?) both ends of the Levo and organic on the Moxie (Hope organic pads seem to last ages compared to others).
I’m trying to remember what’s been done to them over the years - the Moxie’s set are on their fourth frame and date from 2013. They had a Hope service once when they were on the first bike because a piston was being weird but since then I think there’s just been a few pad changes and a couple of bleeds. The Levo’s date from 2018 and have been through a few sets of pads and one set of discs and maybe bled once?
I like the feel, I like the lever adjustability, I like how well they keep working over the years and they have plenty of power.
I bought the red ones I think, but that was based on nothing more than a bit of internetting. I think the more expensive green ones are more of a race compound which I don't think I really need.
I've only just bought the curas so will use the stock pads first but got extras as they're a bit harder to come by.
Bikester shipping isn't too pricey either and came within a week.
Can anyone confirm if this is the correct kit for the new codes?
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/sram-code-r-b1-rsc-a1-caliper-piston-kit/
I'm going with what I have on all 3 of my bikes. Formula Cura 2. Only approx £200 a set and perform faultlessly. My original set I got when they first came out - 3 years ago? Maybe more? Not touched any of the sets I have other than pad changes (although I did have to bleed first rear as I changed bikes, internal routing)
As said previously. 2pot ftw. No faffing with pistons. Keep it simple*.
*Possibly need 4 pot for heavy loads!
@singlespeedstu i've been running Galfer pads in my Saints and am impressed, high level of bite and good wear levels. Red is pretty much sintered with black what Shimano call resin.
@Burchy1
Cheers mate and hope your all well down that end of the UK.
All good down this end @singlespeedstu , been meaning to get up your way for a while, if i make it later in the year i'll give you a shout and you can show me some of the lesser known corners 😉
It'd be a pleasure and great to catch up again.
I currently run Code RSCs and have had no end of trouble with the rear rubbing, however one thing i did find was that when you bleed you need to finish as you started i.e with the caliper syringe 1/4 full of the fluid and the lever syringe 3/4 full. I think its quite easy to overfill the system when bleeding, leading to limited space for the disc.
Once i started doing this, hey presto the rubbing was reduced significantly - i now have zero rub after spending 10mins with a park rotor tool (as mentioned SRAM discs love to warp!)
Also, if you are not directly mounting to the frame i.e 180mm mount to 200mm with adapter make sure you have the conical washers installed under the bolt head as this can stop the caliper "walking" out of position as you tighten. I still eye in my calipers by hand rather than the spin, pull the brake and hold method as well.
I never seem to have any drag on the front, however that is a direct 200m mount (Rockshox Zeb).
Will probably end up swapping to Cura 2-pots at some point in the near future though.
Quite fancy the Hayes dominion A4 to replace my saints
I missed the PSA.....merr...arrr....bugger.