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Hmmm thanks for the reminder. My Saint brakes (I think they were new when they first came out years ago?) anyway- Ive never bled them 😯
Stupidly i was dragging them all the way down !!
Brakes and bike only 3 mnths old, didn't think they would need bleeding.
yeti guy I ALWAYS trail my rear brake. That doesnt make sense if they are only 3months old. sounds like the rotors/pads are contaminated. Hence the 'funny rotor colour' IMO.
Lot of people posting that know jack about brakes, why you would need to bleed them and how to use them.
Seems to be a universal answer when brakes dont work as you expect
"Bleed Them"
Why FFS ?
Could it be contamination on the pads? GT85, or a bit of fluid?
This does remind me to bleed my hopes. Do any of the hive mind know how much fluid is in a typical brake on average? How do you know when all the old fluid is out?
This does remind me to bleed my hopes. D
Why bleed them have you got air in them ?
How do you know when all the old fluid is out?
When you take it all out to start with 🙄
So you crashed through bushes and flew off a drop and made it . Amazing what you can ride if you don't think about it and just let your body react. Cool.
Dales_rider, what's your problem? Why are you such an angry man?
Hmmm Grum "Angry man" is not really the word I had in mind 😆
Why bleed them - because dot fluid absorbs water and as it does so its boiling point lowers - until you overheat the brakes, the fluid boils and the brakes fail.
However if the lever did not come back to the bar this might not have been the cause - it might have been overheated pads. Its still might have been the fluid tho - but with the brakes only 3 months old that is less likely.
How do you know when all the old fluid is out? You can see the colour change usually - or about 4 master cylinders full for me.
Thanks TJ!
Earlier on in the ride i started noticing that i had to pump my back brake to get power?
Sounds like air in the system to me.
I had an old set of hayes that had some weird issue.. every now and again the levers would feel completely lifeless, it was almost as if there was no fluid in the system.. i'd let the levers go, grab them again and all of a sudden the brakes worked just fine. It was probably 1 in 5 brake applications that would fail.
No amount of bleeding would fix the problem (even at the hayes service tent).. i ran these brakes on whistler's bike park for far too long before making the sensible decision and ditching them... taught me better braking though I guess 😉
Magura or Shimano are the only brakes i'd consider now.
IME new, or 1 yr+ brakes tend to have the most fluid issues.
New ones, as they're sometimes not right from the factory, and old ones as the fluid needs replacing.
Dales_rider, what's your problem? Why are you such an angry man?
You obviously know me 😆
Why bleed them - because dot fluid absorbs water and as it does so its boiling point lowers - until you overheat the brakes, the fluid boils and the brakes fail.
Brakes heat up lots everytime you use them. If it was boiling fluid then it would feel like air in the system and the levers would just come straight back to the bars. so That would be a fluid change not a bleed, in a sealed system how do you get water in ?
Air in the system at anytime how the **** did it get in ? only way is a leak.
So what is it ?
Bleeding brakes is a pointless exercise.
Pads out
pistons pushed back and wedged fully in
caliper off
brake pipe off
empty system
Pipe back on
Syringe and tube filled with fluid
fill system from bottom till res full.
Job done
Its much easier just to bleed the system thru with fresh fluid top down that do as you describe. You still get a complete fluid change. air can get in from the top if fluid levels drop. water gets in thru the top as vapour from the air
Not always will boiling fluid mean the lever comes back to the bar - if it boils when the brake is on then the lever bite point pushs out from the bar ( there is nowhere for the vapour expansion to go if the brake is on). Usually tho they boil as you release the brake and the pressure drops - then the lever will come back to the bar next time you apply it.
I have had both happen on the tandem
Buy Shimano Saints? Cowards around the country swear by them. Simples. 😆
just buy BB7's 😉
We 've had the same thing happen on the tandem a few times.(on a long fast descent from the top of the longminge)
The lever feel stays the same but the pads overheat and can't get enough grip on the disc to stop you.
I've put a vented rotor on the rear now (Hope V2's)so we need to go back and try it again. Something tells me that we're going to need to do the same to the front aswell though.
Solamanda.
Your the second person that's said to try the AtoZ blue pads (first being K)so i think we'll give them a go too.
You want to jump on the back while i test them out? 😉
*Waits for someone to tell me i don't know how to brake* 🙄
TandemJeremy - MemberIts much easier just to bleed the system thru with fresh fluid top down that do as you describe. You still get a complete fluid change. air can get in from the top if fluid levels drop. water gets in thru the top as vapour from the air
Not true the diaphragm when correctly "Rolled in" does not allow any air in giving a completely air tight seal so therefore no contct with air and no moisture. Next time you decide to change the fluid in your brakes just try my method I can assure you it is a hell of a lot easier than "Bleeding" them.