As above really, keep reading about them so wondered what the difference is to the usual stuff.
Chain retention is better.
Voodoo, basically. Keeps the chain on better than anything else other than a full top-and-bottom dh guide. It's the difference between single ring being a wee bit crap, and not.
You can run a single front ring without a chain device. Adding a clutch rear mech helps too. From a trail riding POV you can then remove the front mech and shifter. I saved 500+grams. Not missed the extra gears so far.
Ah, I now feel informed. So it's ditch the chain guide with one then ?
Yes, clutch mech essential though. Very effective for anything other than full on knarly DH.
Im thinking of making the move, looking at UK made of course... http://www.workscomponents.co.uk/works-components-104bcd-thick--thin-chainring-alternating-thickness-extended-tooth-design-270-p.asp
rode all the blacks at BPW (apart from the scary big drop) and didnt loose my chain- 30T raceface narrow/wide with a sram clutch mech and no guide 🙂
Been thinking about a clutch mech so maybe go from 2x10 to 1x10 with one of those large rear cassette rings
I've just switched to the 30T spiderless Works one, ditched the bottom guide and had no hint of chain loss or slap, on a short cage X0 mech without a clutch. Was careful to get the chain length just right, really impressed with it's performance on the rockiest Lake District trails, including DH runs.
Removing the top guide now to see how it copes..
empireofthefun - MemberAh, I now feel informed. So it's ditch the chain guide with one then ?
I bounced my hardtail down fort william with no chainguide, and no drops. And it's not like I'm a smooth rider, I came down it like a pissed spacehopper 🙂
Seems to work well without clutch derailleur.I have absolute black with nine speed block and the recommended ten speed chain. rediculously secure, light and quiet...
I take it they don't work with a double?
Nope, it designed so the chain won't come off....
The main benefit is they create 1000x more threads on stw compared to normal chainrings
How do they actually work? Or is it witchcraft?
Every other tooth is thicker than the one before, so it grips the chain, while still allowing it to come off when driving the cranks.
When not moving the chain is effectively held in place by friction.
The tooth profiles match the width of the gaps in the chain, so it doesn't move around as much. This, combined with a clutch style mech, means the chain finds it much more difficult to break free it's shackles and make a bid for freedom.
Also witchcraft.
wobbliscott - Member
Yes, clutch mech essential though.
They work without a clutch mech to.
Problem is no one does a 10T cog on the back other than on that super expensive SRAM cassette do they? I need that 10T cog to get the range of gears I need before I can drop the small ring and front derailler, oh and shifter.
You think you would spin out a lot with 34t front ring 11t rear?
FWIW while I rarely spin out- and never on anything fun, just fireroads and tarmac- I do sometimes have to spin faster than I'd choose. That usually works for me but it's not for everyone I think.
Yes, clutch mech essential though.
Nope, works absolutely fine (& very well) without.
Using a 32t Works Components ring, 11-34 SLX cassette and XTR M970 (I think) mech on a 1x9 here.
Did a soggy, snowy loop of Hamsterley on Sunday and no dropped chain. Admittedly, I'm not a gnarr-poon when it comes to riding, but the same sections had me losing the chain on a normal 32t ring running 2x9 in the summer.
Admittedly on most trails the loss of the big ring is no issue, however round here (South Downs) a fair number of the drops are only made interesting (i.e. 40mph-ish fast) by pedalling like a loon. You can nearly spin out a 42x11 let alone a 34x11. Anyway the lure of no front mech, less weight and no dropped chains has lured me so I've got a 34T RaceFace ring and a 42T OneUp sprocket on the way so we'll see how it works out.
you think you would spin out a lot with 34t front ring 11t rear?
Yeh, as I'll be doing a fair bit of road riding between the gnar. Is it possible to add a 10T cog to a shimano cassette ie replace the 11T?
Yeh, as I'll be doing a fair bit of road riding between the gnar. Is it possible to add a 10T cog to a shimano cassette ie replace the 11T?
Don't think so. iirc thats why sram had to make a new freehub for xx1
Raggatip, yeah they do:
[url= http://canfieldbrothers.com/components/9-tooth-rear-hub ]Canfield[/url]