Check and tighten spokes a Gnats cock. Sound now its as though they have just bedded themselves in.Only had a little pootle up the road, I think I may need a spoke tensioner device!
32 Mavic 819 ust on CK hubs front and rear
Your thoughts please
Rich
you need to pre-tension/pre-stress them.
as cynic says put wheel on ground flat and go round the rim leaning on it.
allso squeeze the laterel spokes with your hands.
grab each set of 4 (2 pairs of 2 crossed) at the cross, squueze between 2 hands.
Retension as nec afterwards and unwind each spoke you tighten manually (i.e. loosen 1/4 turn or so after tightening, to account for first 1/4 of a turn where the thread is not moving.)
You sure it's not your beard catching on the spokes?
you can also give the spokes a tap with something like a chisel with a ground flat end, where they lie across the outside of the hub flanges. its hard to say how much , abit but not to much, you want them to flatten out a bit.
Yeah, like Al says, build 'em nice and tight then put the wheel on the floor and press on opposite sides of the rim (As if trying to bend the wheel!) which should produce a bit of noise! Do all around the wheel, flip it over and repeat. Then recheck the trueness. The ones I've built have been silent.....
i just ride them round gently, listen to the pings, then retension and check, and bobs your dads brother
when im retruing a wheel, i tighten up the loose side, then lean on the wheel with it on flat ground, to push it back to positon.
it tinkles pleasently.
if i dont push it on the floor, it does it while riding for the first few revolutions.
Wait 'til it stops and see if they're still true.
Too late for any of the above.
I think I had this problem for a bit when I last built my rear wheel. I was a bit scared of putting too much tension in, so I don't think I put enough in as a result. After every ride, for about 4-5 rides or so, I had to tighten the spokes that had completely losened themselves, true the wheel and then put in about another 1/4 turn of tension on all the spokes. Eventually I must've hit just the right amount or tension, cos the wheel's remained silent - and true - ever since...
According to the wheelbuilding course I went on:
You should squash the spokes downwards towards the hub when building.
You should push a screwdriver handle in towards the hub on crossing pairs
when building.
You should pinch crossing pairs together at the rim when some tension in the wheel.
You should squeeze parallel spokes together when the wheel is tensioned.
When adding tension, overshoot by half a turn and turn back.
There should be no need to stand on the rim and make tinkling noises. Just built two wheels like this, no noises, no untruing after half a dozen rides.
Its the spokes unwinding, and inevitably when you recheck it, it will be out of true again, so you will retrue it, wind the spokes up again, and hey presto they'll unwind again ! it can be frustrating.
The way I was shown to take the twist out of the spokes before riding it was to take the skewer out lay the wheel flat on the floor with the axle end on a block of wood to protect it. Hold the wheel at the 3 and 9 o'clock position, with your hands directly above the 3 and 9 oclock spokes and using straight arms use a downward forcing motion almost as if you are trying to taco your own wheel (which is a risk) but I have done loads of wheels like this and not bent one yet, but then I am a 10 stone weakling ! then continue round at each spoke. You do have to use a lot of force though.
You have to remember to turn the wheel over and repeat, because you are only de-tensioning the spokes on the lower half of the wheel. You know its working because you place your second finger on the underneath spoke as you are pushing down and you can feel it unwinding. The you can re true the wheel and repeat the process until the spokes are all even tension and hopefully detwisted.