[Closed] My front end feels low

Your Rebas might have a spacer inside them, removing it will make them 120mm. Depends what year they are, but it's a cheap fix if they are.

Guide below explains how to do it.

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-how-to-adjust-travel-on-a-rockshox-trail-fork--26840/

The 456 frames have a pretty short Head Tube on all models (so that you can put BIG forks on them.

The normal spacers/high rise bars/angled stem will help.

Is that a zero degree Thomson? The 10 degree rise one may help a little?

I want to drop my 29er Reba's from 120mm to 100mm so the guide above is useful but even with step by step instructions, I just wouldn't have the confidence to try it unguided. Must tap my mate up to show me.

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I put a 35 degree track stem (upside down of course!) on my Inbred. I have 470mm rigids and felt the front was a bit low. My head angle may be a bit steep. Does anybody do a crown race spacer?

Yeah it's a zero rise thomson, I shall have a play cheers

MrTall - Member

I want to drop my 29er Reba's from 120mm to 100mm so the guide above is useful but even with step by step instructions, I just wouldn't have the confidence to try it unguided. Must tap my mate up to show me.

It genuinely is an easy one - read the guide a few times, understand what you're doing, and it's a half hour job. If you're careful, you don't even need to lose the oil from the lowers.

It's a half hour job if you've done it before. Allow 3 hours from scratch if its your first time, and as HG says read through the guide and make sure you have all the tools (such as 10mm deep socket) before you start.

You can certainly do it in the same cumulative time of boxing up the forks and sending it to someone to do it for you. And you can buy the tools and lubes at a fraction of the cost.

Second time, it'll be a half hour job.

Exactly the same here. The inbred is designed for 80mm- 120 mm forks.
I have rebas on mine too, came supplied as 100mm. Took the spacer out of the air spring to give 120mm and put extra 10 psi so as not to sag into travel as much. Being duel air can play a bit to get best balance.

As said not a big job to remove travel spacer.
On duel air its between negative air spring and base, on solo air its just below top out bump stop IIRC

Maybe buy a frame that fit's your requirements a bit better.

It might help to look at the geo chart before you buy.

Took the travel spacer out as above forks are now at 120 feels better around the garden I'll know more tomorrow, cheers for the largely helpful comments 🙂

Other thing you could do is look to get higher rise bars in addition to the fork mod and a bit of rise on a stem.

It might help to look at the geo chart before you buy.

Wow. Such pearls of wisdom; you must be a hindsight engineer.

Maybe buy a frame that fit's your requirements a bit better.

The seatpost doesn't look particularly high or low and it isn't sporting a particularly long stem, so I don't really see what that comment has to do with the price of fish.

Are you drunk or just feeling antagonistic...

Good job. It took me longer than that!

The seatpost doesn't look particularly high or low and it isn't sporting a particularly long stem, so I don't really see what that comment has to do with the price of fish.

So you don't see the part of the OP's post where he says.

My front end feels low

Maybe look at the geo and understand that he might want a bike with a longer head tube...

I know numbers don't tell the whole story.
But they give you a very good starting point. 😉

Or OP [b]Don't cut the steerer as short[/b] 8)

An Inbred with a longer head tube, now that would be something...

🙂

But seriously - of course I read it. Your comments were too beligerent to be of any help. Deal with it...

Your comments were too beligerent

OOOhh I'm a being beligerent for stating the bleeding obvoius. 🙂

We all go through these thing when buying frames until we learn to look a bit closer as to what we're buying and what we want. 😉

My front end feels low too - if I put high-rise bars on it will I be on trend or look like a 90's throwback?

My front end feels low too - if I put high-rise bars on it will I be on trend or look like a 90's throwback?

If it makes it feel better do you realy care?

OOOhh I'm a being beligerent for stating the bleeding obvoius.

I have no come-back to that other than maybe just serve it up as if you were talking to their face, or something like that...

I did. 😛

If someone asks for an oppinion i tell them what [b]I[/b] think.

Kind of piontless otherwise.

🙂

You ****

Yes i am. 8)

10 paces turn and fire 😕

That's alright, I'm off to get another well-needed drink; I'm losing my antagonistic edge...

Doofs cap

Edit.

*Puts on flame proof suit.*

You buy an on one and it doesn't fit that well.
You get what you pay for. 😛

low front ends were all the rage a few years ago, when we were all riding the fork and muscling the front end or some other bollocks

now it's all about optimally-centred balance, slack front ends and letting our hips do the steering or some other bollocks

risers on a 26er are superschweet for 2015 but you'll have to suffer a bit until then

low front ends were all the rage a few years ago,

Takes me back to the days of ultra short headtubes, 140mm cattleprod stems and 20mm wide bars.

How the **** did we manage to ride anything back then. 😆

what else can I do to stop me feeling perched on it

Inbred also available in 29er.

Jack the forks up and try some higher rise bars.

That will sort it.

Maybe look at the geo and understand that he might want a bike with a longer head tube...

singlespeedstu you are chalky46!

Edit

I know numbers don't tell the whole story.

sorry stu my mistake your not him. 🙂

you might find the longer forks will make the bike more ponderous, slower to turn etc, you have effectively slackened the head angle a fair bit.

But try it you might like it, a longer stem with more rise may help, higher rise bars may help.

Only real choice is to fiddle and spend money, or MTFU and get on with it.

As an aside raising the front end can be detrimental to climbing as the weight is shifted off the front wheel, more likely to wander.