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Crikey, there are some myths about bicycle chains around. A clean chain (stripped of the factory coating) sprayed with GT85 or WD40 will not rust. No other lube necessary if treated like this every ride.
Crikey, there are some myths about bicycle chains around. A clean chain (stripped of the factory coating) sprayed with GT85 or WD40 will not rust. No other lube necessary if treated like this every ride.
It's not a myth it's a fact. The factory chain coating is the best you can get and you should run it until it gets dirty. GT85 and WD40 are too thin and contain solvents which dissolve the factory coating (and therefore **** your chain up).
Nothing smoother than a new SRAM chain (can't speak for shimano).
And if my words don't hold much weight for you maybe a quote from the late great Sheldon Brown will help:
[b]Factory Lube[/b]
New chains come pre-lubricated with a grease-type lubricant which has been installed at the factory. [u]This is an excellent lubricant[/u], and has been made to permeate all of the internal interstices in the chain.
[u]This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the fact[/u] [well, unless...see below -- John Allen].
[u]Some people make the bad mistake of deliberately removing this superior lubricant. Don't do this![/u]
The factory lubricant all by itself is usually good for several hundred miles of service if the bike is not ridden in wet or dusty conditions. It is best not to apply any sort of lube to a new chain until it is clearly needed, because any wet lube you can apply will dilute the factory lube.
[This type of lubricant, like wax, needs to be heated during application, but it could be applied at home or in the bike shop too, if available -- John Allen]
[b]Lubricants Not to Use![/b]
While it's hard to say which lubricants are best for chains, some lubricants are real no-nos:
Automotive motor oil contains detergent, to wash away combustion products, and is made to be renewed constantly under pressure from the motor's oil pump. I [John Allen] rode once with someone who had used it the day before, and her chain was already squeaking.
"Household" oil, such as 3 in 1, is a vegetable oil and is acidic. It tends to gum up. (It's really bad news inside internal hub gears, too...)
WD-40 and other thin sprays are intended more as solvents than lubricants. They evaporate quickly.
Taken from here
[url= http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html ]http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html[/url] http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html
Combined with personal experience of having stripped and re-lubed a few chains myself, in ignorance of the above advice. But if you don't want my over 10 years of mountain biking experience you keep on stripping off that factory lube and replacing it with WD40.
The factory lubricant all by itself is usually good for several hundred miles of service if the bike is not ridden in wet or dusty conditions
Given the current weather, that factory lube isn't going to last long! Personally, I hate it because it picks up to much gunk (mud or dust) so strip it off and replace it with my preferred lube (Rock 'n' Roll or Squirt). My chains last fine and don't rust.
Back on topic, Fenwicks seems to be pretty good and is good value if you buy the FS1.
Combined with personal experience of having stripped and re-lubed a few chains myself, in ignorance of the above advice. But if you don't want my over 10 years of mountain biking experience you keep on stripping off that factory lube and replacing it with WD40.
Thanks, I will. I tend to use GT85, actually. I've tried various lubes over my 25+ years of mountain biking and none of them do anything other than attract crap. I had a spell using synthetic engine oil thinned with paraffin (which is what some 'wet' lubes consist of) but am now back on cleaning the chain after every ride and wiping with GT85.
Different strokes for different folk i guess.
Back on topic, Fenwicks seems to be pretty good and is good value if you buy the FS1
I've had Fenwick's before and liked it a lot.
But I got this: [url= http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTOSTAR-TRAFFIC-FILM-REMOVER-NON-CAUSTIC-5-LITRE-TFR-CAR-TRUCK-BUS-CARAVAN-5L-/191840280517?hash=item2caa925fc5:g:PywAAOSwA4dWFqLS ]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTOSTAR-TRAFFIC-FILM-REMOVER-NON-CAUSTIC-5-LITRE-TFR-CAR-TRUCK-BUS-CARAVAN-5L-/191840280517?hash=item2caa925fc5:g:PywAAOSwA4dWFqLS[/url]
after noticing this: [url= http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fenwicks-Advanced-Caravan-Motorhome-Care-Cleaner-Concentrate-1-Litre-/111961499991?hash=item1a116ce957:g:aXAAAOSwq19XBsFo ]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fenwicks-Advanced-Caravan-Motorhome-Care-Cleaner-Concentrate-1-Litre-/111961499991?hash=item1a116ce957:g:aXAAAOSwq19XBsFo[/url]
was the same as this: [url= http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fenwicks-FS-1-Concentrate-Bike-Bicycle-Cleaner-1-Litre-/361213645922?hash=item541a02d462:g:cL4AAOSwstxU21e3 ]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fenwicks-FS-1-Concentrate-Bike-Bicycle-Cleaner-1-Litre-/361213645922?hash=item541a02d462:g:cL4AAOSwstxU21e3[/url]
I'm not sure if it's the same stuff but i'll be sure to let you know.
@failedengineer, Im 42 and have been mountain biking since I was 17 and have tried many many different lubes and your right 99% do attract shite.
I tried purple extreme many years ago and have never used any thing else it is amazing. Clean the chain thoroughly, put a single drop on each link and leave to dry over night. I put a squirt on a tooth brush and scrub the cassette and outer part of the chain too. Then wipe off and leave it over night.
Next day its like theres nothing on the chain but it works like it is oiled it is unbelievable. Give it a go you wont be disappointed.
The stuff that comes on a new chain is to stop corrosion in storage and thats all. I am sure KMC say to remove the stuff on the chain before use.
A bottle will last you years
I've not used GT85 for years. I can't think of any good that can come from tiny little particles of PTFE in solvent being sprayed around. It does smell good though 😳
Duck Smart products for me as they're hand friendly and don't set off my contact dermatitis!
Well that stuff i ordered came. Took it out the box....its yellow! Not the stuff they advertised. Doesnt smell like fenwicks either.
Came from Bradford though so to be expected really.
I've not used GT85 for years. I can't think of any good that can come from tiny little particles of PTFE in solvent being sprayed around. It does smell good though
Water is a lubricant, never mind GT85. I think that the most important thing is cleaning the grit and crap off the chain every ride.
+1 for screwfix degreaser - cheap as chips
ive got some of that screwfix degreaser but not used it as a muc off wash for the frame etc. how much do you dilute it?
Water is a lubricant, never mind GT85. I think that the most important thing is cleaning the grit and crap off the chain every ride.
That, and not stripping off the factory lube.
thisisnotaspoon - Member
Poundland "No More Dirty Bike", it's even Pink and comes in a Muck-Off style bottle.
How much?
I use "Oomph" from Bunnings Warehouse
But if you don't want my over 10 years of mountain biking experience
Epic fail on an internet forum populated by middle aged men who've been riding since their teens. The factory coating attracts and holds on to grit and contamination which increases wear, on or off road.
If it wears off itself in a few hundred miles then unless you're suggesting I fit a new chain every few weeks (500+ miles a month) then my chains are relying on aftermarket lube for the vast majority of their functional life.
Swarfega vehicle wash diluted down works well for me.
Epic fail on an internet forum populated by middle aged men who've been riding since their teens.
Look do what you want, im just going by what Sheldon Brown says and he came out of his mother's womb on a Raleigh Chopper 😆
Drovercycles - how are you finding the green oil chain lube? Met the owner at a show in London last month and really like his attitude towards materials, especially the way they use old coke bottle tops on the bottles.Would be great if all bike shops stocked it in bulk to refill like you can Ecover at some places (like our post office in the village).
It's good - every bit as good as any other lube we've tried. It's hard to get excited about a chain lube to be honest, but it does the job, seems to be just about the right consistency, and for us the (admittedly small) environmental side of things is important. Simon is a good guy and yes, his approach is different to most - the green angle is core to his business, not just a marketing exercise.
It would indeed be great if all shops stocked it - I don't see that happening any time soon given that the margin isn't amazing, and that they don't have the marketing budget of Muc-Off or the like (no-one has ever come in asking for "Green Oil" but we sell a good bit of it when we're asked for lubes/cleaning product and get talking about the product).
20 litre drum of automotive degreaser from Andrew Page Car parts people, water it down in your re cycled pump spray 60/40 & bingo does the job well also good on the car wheels as the brake dust runs of.
Tried washing without it & no where near as clean, it definitely improves the end results & you can give your chain a good old scrub in it now & then.
Also no more faffing with GT85 or WD40, bought a 5 litre drum of Duck Oil & it comes with a spray bottle, lasts yonks & you get 5 litres not a whiff from a aerosol can.
Water is a lubricant, never mind GT85. I think that the most important thing is cleaning the grit and crap off the chain every ride.
I can't see anything in that post that has any relevance to my post your quoted.
And water can be a kind of lubricant but it's more of a coolant and doesnt really have ant lubricating value unless the system it's used with is designed for it (eg designed to hold water as a cushion).
Crikey, there are some myths about bicycle chains around. A clean chain (stripped of the factory coating) sprayed with GT85 or WD40 will not rust
If you spray your chain with WD40 it may not rust (Water Displacement - Formula 40; the clue is in the name) but equally it won't stay good for long as WD40 is NOT a lubricant.
Water is a lubricant, never mind GT85.
I don't even know what to say here. No, it's not. Not in any way, shape or form (unless you are talking about ambient air moisture which nylon bushes will thank you for). Never in circa 15 years of MTB forum use have I read any statement more ridiculous and I sat and laughed at the KaTec crap when he started out.
KMC's views on chain maintenance:
A new ChainUsually the chain feels a little sticky on it’s outside, you can remove it with a cloth containing some (non-aggressive) cleaner. It prevents the chain attracting dirt.
Cleaning
Clean your chain after every ride, especially after riding in the wet.
Always use a piece of dry cloth to clean the chain.Do not use acidic or alkali based detergents (such as rust cleaners), these can damage the chain and may cause breakage.
Do not dip your chain in (aggressive) degreasers - they remove the remaining grease from the chain’s bearings, and may cause cracks. They are also bad for our environment.
If the chain is really dirty and difficult to clean, besides using a brush for the inside, try putting some solvent on a cloth and use it to clean the chain’s exterior.
Try to avoid a so-called ‘chain washing machine’ in combination with solvent. This will instantly ruin your chain.
Some lubricant brands advise you to completely degrease the chain, KMC does not recommend this.
Lubrication
Lubricate the chain whenever necessary and after you clean it.
Before lubricating, make sure the chain is dry.Use a lubricant which initially penetrates the chain’s bearing. In this way you can reach the chain parts which are most sensitive to wear.
Make sure you are using the appropriate lubricant - if using an aerosol you should test it by spraying some on your hand - first it feels like water (penetration), after some time it should become sticky or dry (durable lubrication), KMC recommends it’s Chain Lube Original.
In order to avoid a build-up of excess grease, apply it to the critical places only, like the rollers. This helps to reduce chain wear and noise.
Apply just a little grease on the rest of the chain to prevent rust.
Remove excess grease from the outside of the chain by using a cloth, this prevents a build-up of dirt and dust.Prepare for wet and muddy, or dry and dusty conditions, by applying some wax after lubricating the chain.
Err based on KMC above was everyone wrong?!?!?
connect 2, buy a chain cleaner machine, park tools , Halfords and muc off do them. I use mine with gunk green, rinse and your done. Saves the other bushes for rest of the bike.
Using Fenwicks diluted for rest of bike, brought some Rhino Goo to try, but not used yet.
I just use a brush, some water, elbow grease and a rag.
Only the chain gets degreased, but I try and leave factory grease on for as long as possible and then use a dry lube that attracts minimal crud
Just to add [url= http://www.bikerumor.com/2011/06/28/chainwear-challenge-quick-interview-with-shimano/ ]Shimano's[/url] view on factory lube as this is something that comes up periodically:
So the best thing to do when installing a new chain is to leave the factory grease on, not apply any other lube, ride until it wears out and then start applying liquid chain lube. In dusty conditions you can wipe off the outside of the new chain with a rag that is wet with a gentle degreaser to keep dirt from sticking to the grease. The factory grease also keeps the chain nice and quiet.
So Shimano, KMC and Sheldon Brown say it's good, some people on the internet say its bad. Hmm...
I sometimes wonder where all this grease comes from that you're trying to get rid of - is it from dodgy chain lubes or are you all riding through tar sands? I just wash the bike with water most of the time.
So Shimano, KMC and Sheldon Brown say it's good, some people on the internet say its bad.
Shock horror. Just let them strip off the factory grease with solvents and replace it with WD40, i'm past giving a f***.
So can we get back on topic?
Last week we had some nice days so i put the idea of a gilet and arm warmers to bed thinking that i'd just be wasting money. Then on saturday night we got caught in a hailstorm and today it's back to typical April weather.
So...... can anyone recommend a gilet that is lightweight and relatively cheap AND FAIRLY HIGH VIS? I like the scott ones people have mentioned but i really should get one that's got a bit of a high vis aspect to it. (I don't really like that yellow colour but if it's going to save my life i suppose i'd better embrace it)
Equally blue or orange might work as long as it's a solid colour.
seen the Endura Pakagilet but still think £30 is a bit steep. If anyone has an aldi sports gilet knocking about to fit 38" chest and wants to sell i would be all over it
So can we get back on topic?
oops! wrong topic. My apologies 😆