[Closed] Middle burn, any reason why not???

I use them on two different bikes & rate them highly, I've got a new set for sale as well if you're interested.

I rather like mine.

I also have a collection of spiders depending on what I might use the cranks on.
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UN54 BB from Shimano is perfectly good bit of kit and IMO will be longer lasting than any HTII unit. If you're lucky you may be able to track down a NOS UN72 one day. If you'r erich you can buy a shiny ROyce or Phil Woods Ti BB. 113mm spindle length is what you'll want for a standard chainline BTW.

Thans Stoner,

Snaps still thinking about it but what spec and how much 😉

Snaps i might be interested as well.

They're Black arm triple ring RS7s (lifetime warranty) square taper with silver 5 arm 94mm spider, they've been fitted but I thought the black didn't look right against my matt frame.
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Thanks Snaps but like you think I have my heart set on the unfinished ones! do look lush though!

MB's rock - plus you can go sq taper which is better than many of the other designs

treat them well - torque crank bolts, grease, anti-seize, thread-lock where necessary and they will last a very very long time indeed and you'll grow to love 'em!

Thread Hijack

Snaps what's the crank arm length? How much?

Without wishing to diminish the attractiveness of Snaps' lush RS7s, I would personally avoid the black ones. I have one set black and one natural - and the black ones have rubbed quite badly whereas you can't really tell on the others.

175mm & £100+post

I loved my RS7s. I thought that with a square taper BB I'd have them years. That until the tapers on the cranks started to round off after only 10 months. Which ofcourse the warranty doesn't cover. 🙁

got 3 sets of Middleburns here. Lovely, all of em 😉

(lifetime warranty)

transferrable?

I have been using a set of Middleburn cranks on my main bike for the past two years or so. I have just had to replace the original UN54 bottom bracket, but apart from that zero maintenance. Unlike external BBs the UN54 very slowly developed play, and I am sure I could have kept using it for another few months without any problems.

If you have a 73mm BB shell you will need a 118mm axle. I originally fitted a 113mm one on mine and the clearance between the crank and BB was minimal. It was so close that as soon as some dirt got in between them it started to unscrew the BB, which then made the cranks jam...

You're right Jason - I've got 113mm axle with a 73mm shell and tolerances are too tight. was thinking I'd got something wrong - so may try a longer axle.

middleburns are ace, fact.
if i could afford them, i'd have them on all my bikes...

fortunately for me, an email from middleburn informed me that they are about to start selling 38t uno rings, which means i can have my favorite cranks on my rohloff bike.
😀

(i'm pretty sure they meant uno ring, if not it'll be a duo ring - means there is no spider, so it looks fab 🙂 )

I have them on both bikes, this is the ss, the other set is 10 years old and still looks ace. Square taper BTW, both with Royce bb.

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Matt @ middleburn told me he already has 36T 1/8 UNOs, just that they arent shown "stocked" anywhere.

Problem with the UNO though is that the chainline will be too short for the 54mm rohloff needs unless I change my BB. Using outer ring position on a dual/triple spider gets 54mm with 113mm.

I use a 121mm Hope Ti BB with adjustable chainline for my Rohloff & it works fine.
(sorry about the mud)

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Hay snaps i might be interested in crank! ,)

hi, yeah, he commented on the BB thing - i'll just get a 122mm one if needs be. having said that, i've got the uno on the frame which used to have a rohloff on it, running as a SS at the mo, and the chain line looks very similar to what it was when the rohloff was on it. gonna experiment this week - put the uno on the rohloff bike and assess chainlines...
need 38t for my set up, 2 weeks until they have them 🙂

sm500 - let me know about the cranks.

ah, snaps, but in that one youre using the middle ring position which is 48mm CL with 113mm, or 52mm with 121mm. 🙂

If you put the cvhainring on the outer position with a 113mm spindle youd get 52-54mm too.

WooHoo!

Postie has arrived with a UN72 113mm x 68mm off eBay, for a tenner 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂

Stoner - Member

WooHoo!

Postie has arrived with a UN72 113mm x 68mm off eBay, for a tenner [:)] 🙂 [:)] 🙂

lucky git 😉

thats my second or third one I think.

Got to stop hoarding them 🙂

who do you get them from on ebay???
🙂

Anyone else had the square taper cranks rounding off like chorlton above?

What tool do I need to tighten an Uno ring to the arms? I've inherited one.

V good anyway no problems at all since August when they were purchased.

[i]What tool do I need to tighten an Uno ring to the arms?[/i]

I use a [url= http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=25&item=BBT-18 ]Park Tool BBT-18 Bottom Bracket Tool[/url]

or [url= http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-Shimano-Shimano-TLUN96-Tool-for-Chainset-Spider-Removal-and-Octalink-Bottom-Bracket-Fitting-18297.htm ]Shimano TL-UN96[/url]

Hi Oldgit - you'll need an 8-prong tool thingy to tighten the lockring (a Shimano XTR BB tool or a Park BBT18 or there's a cheaper X-Tools version on CRC as well).

doh - too slow :o)

hungry monkey - there is a guy in malaysia selling NOS ones occasionally.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Shimano-UN72-Bottom-Bracket-68X113-Pedalier-Innenlager_W0QQitemZ320354647241QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR?hash=item320354647241&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A4|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1318

Otherwise I just get s/h ones.

Its a gamble on condition, fortunately the one that's just arrived has perfect threads, zero play and buttery bearings. Jackpot! 🙂

Cheers for the link Stoner - just captured one of those off him... 8)

That UN72 has just come through fine from the Malaysian ebay seller

nice one.
Im kicking myself, I missed a UN72 on eBay yesterday for about £6! Grrrrrr. Why didnt it show up in my favourites email?!??!

"I loved my RS7s. I thought that with a square taper BB I'd have them years. That until the tapers on the cranks started to round off after only 10 months. Which ofcourse the warranty doesn't cover"

Bad maintanance .... I had 165s for 8 years on a downhill bike which got abused big time...still never rounded them , swapped em with someone on a forum for a set of 175s which i used for another 2 years with no bother.

[i]Bad maintanance[/i]

go on then, how do you "maintain" a set of forged crank arms? 🙂

I assume the only way the tapered holes could round off would be running with a loose crank bolt. But surely you'd notice?

youd think so ...but its the only way you will round tapers on middleburn....only takes them to come loose once

in my youth id ride off roofs of buildings and gap 15-20 foot step downs on middleburns. Periodically checked they were tight and they didnt **** up

my buddy has how ever snapped a pair right across the M on middleburn but that would be the older engraved ones (same as my 165s), i believe that would make a stress riser ? Putting the power on at a junction

Have to agree on rounding the tapers. Because I'm goofy-footed (left foot back), it tends to back off the crank bolt ever so slightly. And as people have pointed out, it only takes that happening once to round off the tapers. In fact, I did it on a HT1 crankset too.
Recently I've fitted some self-extracting crank bolts; this seems to do the trick of holding everything in place, with the occasional tightening up of the bolts where necessary between rides.

I have black RS7's and black RS8's and they're excellent. Go for the SKF BB's that Middleburn now distribute if you're an Isis man.

>> numpty mini hijack (sorry) <<

On my singlespeed, I have self extracing bolts on the RS8s that I've just picked up second hand. They do seem to come loose during a ride - and I was very aware of tightening them back up during the ride, but should I put Loctite on the (female) threads of the axle? Will it still be able to 'self extract' - and just require a bit more elbow grease?

Also, how do you get the self extractng bolt out the end of the crank arm? It has a series of small holes on the ring around the outside of the allen bolt - I'm guessing it's something to do with that?

Sorry for the hijack - I guess it's sort of relevant to the whole debate... 😕