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I use 44mm valves cut from a couple of old tubes as I object to paying £15 for two valves when I could have half a dozen tubes (with valves) for the same price. But maybe that's just me being tight. And I payed around £25 duty most of which was to bloody parcelforce!
Is anyone using these in the Alps? I'm thinking of getting some in the DH flavour as I'm continually denting my DT Ex5.1s to the point I'm about to give up on tubeless as I keep getting leaks at the rim that won't seal, or would I be better off with a beefier metal rim? I'm looking for something I can run through rock gardens at 25psi without worry rather than low weight
Cheers Proutster, look perfect!
Steve - I'm pretty sure the carbons would be fine in the alps if you put sufficient pressure in your tyres.
Hitting the rim on stuff will spit no favours. More pressure, or less force hitting rocks would solve your problems.
@Steve... 5.1s are as soft as shite. But, all that really does is amplify the problem, if you're banging the rims often that'll cause you grief with any rim sooner or later.
Nothing specific about alps rocks that are bad for wheels but ime it generally means riding fast and blind over chunky terrain for extended periods so stuff gets whacked more. I'll probably put my battlescarred old Flows back on, not because they're tougher, just because I care less about them. And because I don't mind the weight increase so much with uplifts.
Just signed up to post that? Smells spammy.
Their website's dreadful on iPhone at least. I'll stick to Light Bicycle.
I concur with moar pressure.
I was running mine sub-20psi and between punctures it was a right laugh until the rim cracked.
LB have been good to sort me out with a replacement for the cost of postage although it is not a quick process so I built up another rim as a stop-gap.
I make sure my pressures are at least 25-30psi now.
sub-20psi
must have been like riding through treacle!
Not at all, faster rolling speeds on rough ground and enough support from the wide rim to prevent any rolling of the tyre in corners.
I was using WTB Vigilante on both ends so not skinny light weights but remarkably fast rolling for the amount of grip they offer.
Not sure if this of any significance or relevance, but may be worth noting anyway, but I just had a bead on a high roller LUST break before seating on the rim at 30psi, jeeebus what a noise! It was pretty tight to get onto the rim and it would seem popping onto the bead shelf was just too much strain for it. Wouldn't want it happening when riding. 26" 33mm rim.
I've found that running Hans Dampf on 29er 35mm rims, I'm running about 20psi or just under and I'm 14st!
To those running these rims - have you ever damaged alloy rims in the past?
Im tempted to get the LB rims but my current alloy ones have a few dings in them. I don't run low pressures (30psi + or so tubeless)
If I "ding" a carbon rim is it for the bin?
I'm not too bad on rims and tend to bunny hop drainage bars etc rather than hit them. I''ve not written off rims with dents but have a few dents in my old arches. I'm not expecting a long life from a carbon rim to be honest.
Not used LB rims, but have run various other carbon brands. Never been a habitual rim dinger, even when racing DH.
Carbon rims don't ding either, they just crack instead.
My replacement Derby's are here, so I will build them up shortly. I'm expecting a 10% increase in speed. Until they crack. Again.
Hob Nob - MemberCarbon rims don't ding either, they just crack instead.
Or rather, most of the time they do nothing at all.
I went with a discounted pair of deemax I found in the end. If they can hack it at 25psi I might look at carbon down the road but if not then it's a better way to find out I need to run higher pressures.
My 35mm 29er rim came in at 395g - I asked for a light one, hope that wasn't a mistake! Combined with my carbon fat rim, 660g trimmed off. I was raped by customs, £37 for 1 rim :((
saw these, thought of this thread 😆
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Anyone know how much altogether for 2 hookless 35mm 650b rims inc imp duty?
Cheers
Duty varies, and as they price in dollars it'll depend on your FX rates too. Assume c£35 for fees, not hard to work out everything else.
Just about to buy spokes and nipples for my 29er XC LB rims.
Rose bikes have a warning on the DT alloy nipples not to be used on rims without eyelets - is this true - can they be used on these rims?
Never heard that before- I've seen factory wheelsets with alu nipples on eyeletless rims. A corrosion thing?
Never heard that before. I'm running DT alu on mine.
Alu galls quite badly IIRC, so I guess a soft alu nipple in a soft alu rim is a bad idea without the harder eyelet inbetween. No idea about carbon. Can't see how it could be corrosion unless the alloys are vastly different?
There is something about corrosion with steel spokes and alloy nipples with the carbon rims - mentioned lots at mtbr for some reason. I guess alu seatposts seize in steel frames so maybe related. I bought brass nips anyway, tiny weight gain.
thisisnotaspoon - Member
Can't see how it could be corrosion unless the alloys are vastly different?
I was thinking more of normal corrosion causing extra problems- glomming the parts together- rather than electrode stuff from dissimiliar metals. Only thing I can really think of tbh!
Alloy nipples on steel spokes and carbon rims built up without ti-prep or Linseed are likely to corrode at an increased rate vs the same alloy nips on alloy rims. No need for eyeleted rims with DT alloy nipples, just stay away from super light rims with tissue thin spoke beds.
DP.
I've waded through a lot of this thread but got lost in the detail so am asking "what should I get?"
My use case is:
* do-anything steel 29er HT
* I ride moderately quick XC through to moderate trail (like say CYB blacks or BPW reds or natural trails), if I ever do a BPW style black or serious rock garden it's mince-core style, pick your way, not warp speed DH.
* I weight 76kg in my birthday suit, I don't huck or jump more than a few inches but I'm not a super light rider either
* usually 2.25 or 2.3 Spesh tyres on Rebas but I want to be able to run 2.35 HDs without the silly light bulb profile
* tubeless always
Currently I have a set of Crests and a set of Arch Ex, what I'm looking for is, as someone describes earlier in the thread "Crest weight with Flow width" type of thing, tho wider is OK if it works and fits. Would the 29mm internal width ones come up "too wide" for general use.
What should I get, and just rims (I don't have great confidence in my LBSs for building unfortunately, I'm more likely to get attitude back for not buying 800 quid Enves than I am a careful and considerate service), or built wheels?
The final aim: one wheel set to rule them all, fit and forget, except for putting the HDs on when I'm off somewhere rocky. My usual riding is Surrey Hills, year round.
What would you get?
Phew! Ta.
that post was much too long and fair beans for it being ignored
so I ask - which 29er set up to get "Flow width and Crest weight"?
ta
so I ask - which 29er set up to get "Flow width and Crest weight"?
[url= http://www.light-bicycle.com/bead-hook-less-rims-carbon-29er-light-bike-rim-tubeless-compatible.html#.U96NUmOpefs ]These[/url] are 5g lighter than a Crest, and 0.6mm narrower than a Flow. [url= http://www.light-bicycle.com/35mm-wide-29er-rims-beadless-for-bicycle-trail-or-mountain-bike-enduro-with-tubeless-compatibility.html#.U96M8mOpefs ]These[/url] are wider and heavier than a Flow, but obviously much tougher.
I've got the former, also a Surrey Hills rider, but the lighter spectrum - on a 19lb carbon XC hardtail. They've been flawless though.
These are 5g lighter than a Crest, and 0.6mm narrower than a Flow. These are wider and heavier than a Flow, but obviously much tougher.I've got the former, also a Surrey Hills rider, but the lighter spectrum - on a 19lb carbon XC hardtail. They've been flawless though
Old Flow 29" was quoted as 525g, new Flow Ex 29" is quoted as 545g. The LB 35mm rim is quoted as 420g +/- 15g with real reviews coming out at 395g.
Quite a bit lighter than even the lighter than any of the flows and almost down at Crest weight.
Yep, recollection fail on the weight of the Flow, I'm thinking Crest weights 😳
Thx - Stans site says a Flow is 29.1mm external width, 25.5mm internal (and a Crest 24.4mm and 21mm). The first LB is 27mm external 22mm internal, so I make that only 1mm wider internally than my Crests (not enough to be worth a switch). Am I missing something?
A Flow is 22.6mm, a Flow Ex is 25.5, but as I was getting the weights all wrong then I'd definitely get the wider ones.
Ah soz, I hadn't realised there were 2 Flow models.
The wider ones are the same weight as Arch Ex, which I also have and am happy with.
Best ponder a bit ...
Btw for those going with the 'wide' rims you might find you have frame tolerance issues. I only just can fit a 2.25 RR in the back of my scale only a couple of mm spare each side.
Rims still going strong couple of big scratches now. Enve stickers look a little worse for wear.
I went for the original wider hooked rim. Much wider than my Crests, similar ERD so I literally just swamped the rims. They were 10g lighter each and seem very strong.
The width is a worry.
Currently running 2.25" Smorgasbords on 21mm internal rims and looking at the 35mm rims with 30mm internal. Have currently got about 10mm clearance.
I run the same tyres on 21 and 29mm internals difference is about 0.5mm don't worry about it 29 x 2.35 hans dampfs . Hype in my opinion as the profile and width are so minimal. It's not akin to to running the likes of 2 and 2.25 tyres. You can however utilise lower tyre pressures presuming the tyre walls are up to it
cool, cheers Moda
I can measure tomorrow if you want another comparison, I've got a 2.3 Butcher on a LB 33mm and on a relatively skinny Roval. The difference isn't going to be much though ime, based on measurements I did with other rims.
I can measure tomorrow if you want another comparison, I've got a 2.3 Butcher on a LB 33mm and on a relatively skinny Roval. The difference isn't going to be much though ime, based on measurements I did with other rims.
yeah that would be dead handy, I have those tyres, thx'
perhaps though the difference is more about profile than width
I have a bit of a concern with the 33mm being, well just too damn big.
it does feel as if there is a bit of a gap in the LB product range here
Hype in my opinion as the profile and width are so minimal.
interesting POV
this makes sense to me http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday--Wider-Rims-Are-Better-and-Why-Tubeless-Tires-Burp-.html
I wasn't trying to say there is a massive difference, but it is wider and if you already have tight tolerance you may end up closer than you like. Of course you can always go for a smaller tyre....
I would say it is more than .5mm but can't be sure as didn't measure beforehand
Just to update this thread, I've been running the 26" 33mm wide AM rims for the past 9 months or so on my mojo HD.
Tonight I whacked the rear wheel into a water bar (coming down shining tor near the cat and fiddle - if anyone knows it) rather clumsily, and cracked the rim in two places.
I was running tubeless at the time, and running at a decent pressure (30psi),but after the crack, they wouldnt hold air, so I put a tube in and finished off the rest of the ride. The rims held up fine for the remainder of the ride, but they're definitely a write off.