Keep bending rear m...
 

MegaSack DRAW - This year's winner is user - rgwb
We will be in touch

[Closed] Keep bending rear mechs

25 Posts
23 Users
0 Reactions
90 Views
Posts: 0
Free Member
Topic starter
 

Ever since I changed to 1x10 I keep getting bent rear mechs which result in rubbish shifting. I've gone through 3 since I changed in Oct 2016. It's becoming a seriously expensive and stressful problem and something is not right.
The rear cassette is now an 11-42 the old cassette when I had 2x10 used to be I think an 11-36 and I never had a bent derailuer in the 2 years I had this setup.
Does anyone know what it could be that is causing them to bend ?
Only thing I can think of is when putting the bike on the floor to open those annoying trail gates, it's getting bent? But then this was never happening before.


 
Posted : 15/05/2017 11:23 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

You sure it's not the hanger that's getting bent?


 
Posted : 15/05/2017 11:28 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
Topic starter
 

I don't think so because the LBT (Local Bike Technician) says its the deraileur and also when it happened the other 2 times in the past the LBT changed the derailer only and the problem was solved (until the bending returned very soon afterwards) without changing the hanger.


 
Posted : 15/05/2017 11:29 pm
 JoB
Posts: 1448
Free Member
 

if you think it's because of when you're putting the bike on the floor to open gates and you're doing that gear-side down, stop doing that


 
Posted : 15/05/2017 11:30 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
Topic starter
 

It's just that this has never happened before with the 2x10 setup and I used to put it gear-side down regularly.

Is it possible that, due to the larger cassette on the 1x10, the deraileur could now be in a position where it's more likely to get bent when the bike is put gear-side down ?


 
Posted : 15/05/2017 11:33 pm
 JoB
Posts: 1448
Free Member
 

putting a bike gear-side down is (old fashioned term) poor practice, stop doing it anyway, a beneficial side effect might be fewer bent rear mechs 🙂


 
Posted : 15/05/2017 11:36 pm
Posts: 11378
Full Member
 

There is no excuse for placing a bike derailleur side down, you are being mechanically unsympathetic to a very sensitive precision design, in a previous life I was a skills coach/guide and seeing this used to boil my piss.


 
Posted : 15/05/2017 11:43 pm
Posts: 1781
Free Member
 

Singlespeed - the answer to most of life's problems


 
Posted : 16/05/2017 1:49 am
Posts: 17
Free Member
 

Right mech for the size?
Leaving it fully extended and laying it down will leave it open to more leverage than a smaller 2x situation.
Is the chain lenght right? How much extension is left at 42t in the mech?


 
Posted : 16/05/2017 1:52 am
Posts: 10262
Full Member
 

I was going to say is chain length right and has the mech got the capacity to cover that 42t cog? Is it Shimano or Sram? If the former, have you got a goatlink / radr cage or long b screw?

And what's so hard about putting the bike down non derailleur side?!


 
Posted : 16/05/2017 5:00 am
Posts: 2674
Full Member
 

It takes (ime) a fair effort to bend a mech..
are they actually twisted, bent, knackered or does the shifting just go rubbish??
Have you checked the chain?? Is there a twisted link that's catching the cage?
Do you try to shift gears when peddling hard?

I'd be inclined to try another bike shop with a hanger alignment tool before buying a new mech (unless you've got another broken one at the mo)


 
Posted : 16/05/2017 5:41 am
Posts: 27
Free Member
 

Are limits set correctly? Sometimes they're JUST able to reach their limits, but give em another half of quarter turn to ensure the chain is adequately seated.


 
Posted : 16/05/2017 5:52 am
Posts: 507
Free Member
 

Assuming you're full sus, let all the air out of your shock/remove the spring, and get someone to fully compress the suspension while you check if there's any slack in the chain. From expensive experience on a mate's bike, some designs have far more chain growth/shortening than you'd expect.


 
Posted : 16/05/2017 5:53 am
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

Given that you have (I seem to recall) a full sus, I'd say chain length is maybe too short.

I have to say though, given your propensity for knackering almost everything on your bike, maybe a couple of the STW regulars should go for a ride with you so they can report back on just why this is so..?!


 
Posted : 16/05/2017 5:57 am
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

I kept bending mechs when I changed to a full suss but it took a slow, small jump for me to put 2 and 2 together. It only happened when the shock was at almost full compression and I'd dropped a load of psi as I was just doing dh runs. Do as coatesy says to check.


 
Posted : 16/05/2017 6:05 am
Posts: 3973
Full Member
 

If the chain is too short are you sure your LBT knows what he or she is doing? Maybe you should get a Local Good Bike Technician (LGBT) instead? Always good to diversify IMO.


 
Posted : 16/05/2017 6:23 am
Posts: 1866
Free Member
 

larger expander cog - chain growth - mechs that bend easier than they used to.....

Probably one, or all of these I reckon.


 
Posted : 16/05/2017 6:40 am
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

3 mechs in 7 months? I've the same mech running 1x10 on my hardtail (my only MTB) after 3 years! Do Coatsey's check. Davosaurusrex's suggestion might be a bit too far though 😉


 
Posted : 16/05/2017 6:54 am
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

If the chain is too short are you sure your LBT knows what he or she is doing?
The tech knows what he's doing. Taking customers for a ride.

It's pretty tricky to bend a rear mech without bending the hanger first.
So my guess is he's fitted a new mech (which he has in stock), and got it to work and tweaked the bent hanger back into some sort of shape that allows the gears to work. As i'd guess he doesn't have the hanger in stock.

Bent hangers loose a lot of strength, so next time you get out for a ride, ooooo. You need a new mech, you've bent it again.


 
Posted : 16/05/2017 8:38 am
 goss
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

Try get a [u]CNC[/u] machined hanger next time, that won't bend. (A consequence to this is sharper gear shifting and eventually the mech taking the beating if the hanger doesn't crack).

as mentioned multiple times; right type of mech for the cassette(GS, SGS, GoatLink)? chain length vs. chain growth? has the hanger been replaced or just bent back each time ?


 
Posted : 17/05/2017 11:22 am
Posts: 3351
Free Member
 

LBT (Local Bike Technician)...

Given the previous mechanical history of the OP I'm taking a keen interest in this. My advice would be to remove LBT from the equation entirely before making any more expensive decisions. I'd swallow the cost and inconvenience and go to a reputable bike shop.

The first port of call has to be the mech hanger, which should be replaced and correctly torqued. The only other issue that I can think of is that the mech cage is colliding with the spokes of the rear wheel, either due to a foreign object being caught in the spokes or due to flex in the wheel - the latter could be fixed for less than twenty quid by a decent bike shop.

Also, dropping the bike on ground driveside downwards or leaning the bike in such a way as to put weight on the mech is an extremely bad idea, regardless of whether it's nine speed or twelve speed.


 
Posted : 17/05/2017 11:43 am
Posts: 13815
Free Member
 

I would guess the chain is too short and it's bending the mech under full compression - did you lengthen the chain when moving to 11-42?


 
Posted : 17/05/2017 11:59 am
Posts: 3073
Full Member
 

I would guess the chain is too short and it's bending the mech under full compression - did [s]you[/s]the LBT lengthen the chain when moving to 11-42?

FTFY


 
Posted : 17/05/2017 12:09 pm
Posts: 91098
Free Member
 

I've done some bad things to bikes. Once bent a frame by being in big ring/big sprocket on a too short chain. Also had a chain jam in the jockey wheel when winching up a big steep hill which ripped the mech off the bike and dragged it around the wheel - the hanger snapped.. I'm still using the same mech I've had since 2007 that was in both these incidents - it's still fine. Also once ovalised a freehub body which meant instant fixie conversion, and the the whole force of my momentum went through the lower chain. Still using that mech too.

So mechs are quite strong (well 9sp ones anway) so something is badly out of whack. For your mechanic to simply swap them and send you on your way is pretty poor show imo.

Also, dropping the bike on ground driveside downwards or leaning the bike in such a way as to put weight on the mech is an extremely bad idea, regardless of whether it's nine speed or twelve speed.

I've also dropped and crashed bikes countless times, and bent plenty of hangars slightly. And still never bent a mech.


 
Posted : 17/05/2017 12:39 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

Frivolous answer: Three mechs in 6 months is not excessive. One mate was going through one every couple of rides last year. Just rock impacts, no incorrect adjustment involved.
Carries a spare mech all the time now. At least he never has to worry about jockey-wheels needing replacing 😛

Serious answer: The "growth" under suspension compression is the most obvious thing to check first.


 
Posted : 17/05/2017 12:56 pm
Posts: 17288
Full Member
 

Are you certain that it is a bent RD, and not just poor shifting that is leading you to suspect a bent RD? Other options for poor shifting are a contaminated gear cable and of course a bent hanger.

As others have said the RD is a pretty robust device (although I bent one when it went into my back wheel once - forget poor shifting, this one was obviously out by an inch!). If you asked for a replacement, then it's not surprising that's what they would do - and presumably replace the cable too.


 
Posted : 17/05/2017 4:03 pm