Forum menu
Numpty question, sorry. Does any one know the score with this? Do I have to re-blead or is there a reservoire I can just pour a little into?
Also, will this have the effect of adjusting the bite point so there's less lever throw?
Cheers,
Alex
Unfortunately you need the bleed kit I think.
You can generally let a little fluid out of the system to bring the bite point to the bars but if they don't need bleeding and they're full of fluid already (likely if you had them from new) then there is probably little you can do to reduce the lever throw.
Thanks, just bled 'em, so no good there.
I have tiny little girl hands, so would like to wind in the reach and still have room for fingers under the lever. Never mind, it's not the end of the world.
A
Can't you just bleed them with the pistons out a bit? That usually brings the bit point in.
BWF, so I re-bleed with the pistons partially out? The thing is there is quite a lot of lever throw before the pistons start to move, but not much clearance between pads and disc. Already got a hint of rubbing in there.
I was hoping that more oil would start 'em moving sooner in the lever action.
They are kind of old mind, the single bolt black levers, maybe I should start saving for some 7's?
A
That works on some kinds of brakes, I haven't tried on juicys. If you bleed them with the pistons out a tiny bit (any more and you won't get the pads in) you can get more oil in the system. Worth a go? As mentioned elsewhere on the forum today if you do this on HFX9s the push in bleed cover on the lever pops out so it won't work on all brakes.
That makes sense, so I bleed 'em with the pistons out what 1mm? then push 'em back in and there's more oil in the system...
Interesting, time to get all oily I think.
A
Don't try and set the pistons, it'll be a waste of time because if you bleed the system correctly they'll be drawn back into the calliper.
If you bleed Juicy's properly then they'll have an almost instant bite. It is quite faffy and not as easy as Avid like to make out but once you've got the hang of it, it's very easy.
When you read the bleeding guide I'd follow it up to filling the lever assembly and then pass the fluid back and forth between the syringes several times. Then re-bleed the calliper and follow steps in the guide to fill the lever assemby and bleed the hose. Then bleed the lever assembly a good five or six times. Remember that as you're bleeding the lever assembly you'll be pulling the diaphragm out of shape. Before removing the syringe, push the fluid in enough to pop the diaphragm into the right place. It won't take a lot of pressure, so do it gently and you'll feel it position itself.
The above will be very clear if you read it alongside the Avid bleed guide.
Finally, move the levers in-board a bit and you can use the 'hook' on the end of the lever to brake with your index figure. Should stop the figures getting crushed.
I'd recommend tipping the lever upside down and tapping it a few times before finishing the lever bleed, i'm pretty sure air gets trapped under the diaphragm otherwise, and if the bike's tilted back far enough then it will get into the system and leave you with long lever travel.
May also be worth servicing the caliper and silicone greasing the pistons, if they're sticky in the seals then they'll retract when you release the lever, rather than self adjusting and taking up the free travel.