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[Closed] Is this bike worth getting repaired ???

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Since I've got the Raceface cranks I'm stuck with this type of bottom bracket now

Who told you that? Hope make BBs that fit

I read about it online. If Hope make BBs that fit, then I'll ask the mechanic to fit a Hope one next time round.

It's the U.K. it's muddy everywhere!

This is the problem, the mud. During the first two years I used to just fit mud guards (so that I don't get covered in it from head to foot) and try to "ignore" the mud. The bike obviously got filthy as mud guards just keep most of the mud off the rider and not the bike.

Since then I've been trying to avoid muddy conditions and always plan rides in accordance to the weather. e.g. In Winter riding more trail centres when conditions are muddy, and trying to avoid riding anywhere whenever rain is forecasted, or getting the hard tail out if its a ride where the trails are expected to be appalling.
Whenever trails are dry and dusty I try to get out every day.
Since then I've been spending less on repairing the Camber FSR.
I wish we didn't have the mud but unfortunately we've got it and it's something to put up with and it costs me a lot of money.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 12:22 pm
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When I lived in Hag Fold, I had no other choice of mechanic. The Hag Fold mechanic had a total monopoly of that town and the 3 nearest towns as well.
Bollocks. You're half way between Manchester and Wigan, All he's got a monopoly on is people too lazy to actually find someone who knows what they are doing. Must be 30-40 shops within easy travelling distance. I'm sure plenty of people on here could recommend one.

I read about it online. If Hope make BBs that fit, then I'll ask the mechanic to fit a Hope one next time round.
Get someone who knows what they are doing to fit it instead.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 12:30 pm
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Must be 30-40 shops within easy travelling distance. I'm sure plenty of people on here could recommend one.

Like Rebound Suspension Horwich ?

I think not. Not in walking distance so getting the car out is essential.
30 minutes drive from Hag Fold. Drop it off, drive back home, wait a few days, pick it up, drive back home with bike. That's 2 hours driving.
In that time, I could have nearly driven to the Southern Lake District and back.

I went to Rebound for a Fork service once just to see if I would have any better luck with them than the Hag Fold Mechanic.
They charged £80 for the full service (£40 more than the Hag Fold mechanic would charge)
The fork only lasted 5 months then it locked out completely.
On taking it to the local mechanic he said Rebound are "cowboys" and they did a bad job rebuilding the fork and the circlip was missing.

Don't even suggest Halfords or Allens or Leisure Lakes they are definitely not an improvement. If I had to rely on those I would have given up


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 12:34 pm
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The Hag Fold mechanic had a total monopoly of that town and the 3 nearest towns as well.

Yeah, I'm starting to think this is all a wind up.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 12:35 pm
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Yeah, I'm starting to think this is all a wind up.

I don't waste time on a computer unless there is a point to it. I don't go on forums for fun, only to try and get information


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 12:36 pm
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I wish we didn't have the mud but unfortunately we've got it and it's something to put up with and it costs me a lot of money.

Any yet it doesn't seem to cost anyone else anywhere near the figures you're quoting.

I'm gonna be blunt here, but you seem to be asking for advice and then completely ignoring the advice given. [b]Stop being such a chopper and learn how to fix your bike[/b], its not some magical black art that requires a doctorate in mechanical engineering. Its a few spanners, hex keys the odd £30 tool (if that) and some youtube videos.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 12:36 pm
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.....damnit, beaten by seconds again. ^^

If this is trolling may I be the first to congratulate you sir


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 12:37 pm
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I'm gonna be blunt here, but you seem to be asking for advice and then completely ignoring the advice given. Stop being such a chopper and learn how to fix your bike, its not some magical black art that requires a doctorate in mechanical engineering. Its a few spanners, hex keys the odd £30 tool (if that) and some youtube videos.

It is alright saying that, but I don't stand a chance in being able to learn this stuff. I might learn 1 or 2 new things every year, but there's no way I'm going to go from being able to do very little, to doing everything, within a short period of time.

I've tried to follow Youtube videos and its been a disaster. If anything they seem to make it worse. They make it look easy, but when I try to do it, it's not the same.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 12:40 pm
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If this is trolling may I be the first to congratulate you sir

Like I said, I don't go on forums for fun, I don't really enjoy using them and only go on them for information.

If you find it all too hard to believe then don't read the thread again. I can only speak for myself and I have very few mountain biking mates (all of who I very rarely see) so don't get much chance to talk about bikes to anyone else so if it wasn't for this forum I would have just thought that all this is the norm.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 12:40 pm
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I don't really enjoy using them and only go on them for information

Which you then ignore or rubbish.

If you paid for a Cytech course it’d be cheaper than let this “mechanic” rinse you every time you visit him.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 12:46 pm
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I don't stand a chance in being able to learn this stuff.

Wahhh wahhhhh wahhhh. Suck it up and [b]learn[/b]. No one is buying the "I cant learn to use a spanner" line. What a load of bollocks.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 12:58 pm
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Jobs like suspension forks, rear shocks, hydraulics, dropper posts, frame bearings etc are quite advanced and really don't think I'll be able to do those any time soon. Plus I don't have anywhere warm to work on bikes (I refuse to bring oily or dirty bike stuff into the house) so any attempt at doing it is restricted to summer only.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 1:01 pm
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Suspension forks, rear shocks, dropper post - remove from bike with allen keys, stick in box, get box collected by tftuned, receive box back with fully serviced components, fit back to bike with allen keys.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 1:04 pm
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Plus I don't have anywhere warm to work on bikes (I refuse to bring oily or dirty bike stuff into the house) so any attempt at doing it is restricted to summer only.

Wahhh wahhhh poor me.

Old sheet, Jesus H Christ. You've got yourself in a real pickle about all this - see advice about not being a chopper.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 1:11 pm
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All my bikes live in my attic flat. Never left outside at all. I also service them religiously to prevent stuff failing ie all fluids changed every year etc etc


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 1:13 pm
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As far as I can see you have a few options, pick the one that appeals the most

1.continue to use current mechanic and learn to live with cost
2. Maintain your bike better, I do similar milage to you and haven't done anything like the repairs you seem to need. You are cleaning it, right? 😕
3. Find better shop to do your repairs
4. Buy tools and a Haynes manual
5. Find a home repair course and sign yourself up!


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 1:19 pm
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It's in one ear, out the other, same as the last however many threads.

Sell the bike, buy a new one, get reamed by the same "mechanic". Again.

No one here really cares anymore.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 1:20 pm
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Where do you store your bike if you don't have anywhere warm to work on it and refuse to take it in the house?

I work on mine in the garage where it lives - just wear a base layer and any other clothes required to stay warm whilst doing it. Not a problem.

I won't attempt to rebuild forks / shocks, but will have a go at most other jobs. I find YouTube guides generally really useful with jobs I haven't done before.

Apart from a fork service I don't think my bike has been in for any work at a bike shop in the last 10 years or more. Even did the rear suspension bearings myself - although it was quite an easy frame to do without any kind of bearing press required (Boardman Pro FS).

Just get yourself a workstand and a few useful / decent tools like Allen keys / torque wrench / torx keys (if you have Sram mainly) / cable cutter / Bottom Bracket tool etc and you'll be well away.

Given how much cash you spend on the mechanic, all of the above will be paid for in pretty much one visit.

If you can't be bothered, then it'll be a case of 'suck it up princess' and just keep paying the mechanics wages.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 1:33 pm
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[i]I don't go on forums for fun[/i]

Clearly a weirdo.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 1:36 pm
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Have a few days away in the Lakes, get your bike fully rebuilt in the process (probably working out cheaper than the Mechanic), get an unbiased opinion on what is / isn't borked AND come away with the skills to tackle some of it again in the future.

https://www.cyclewise.co.uk/course/10-bike-maintenance-strip-build-course

https://www.cyclewise.co.uk/course/23-suspension-service-course

I'm no big fan of Rebound, but can't see how a used fork breaking after a further 5 months of hard use is directly their fault. There is also Bounce Suspension in Preston who have a much bigger workshop and lathe etc for making tooling to fit and remove bearings and bushes.

Ride-On in Rawtenstall is probably the best workshop in the area - unfortunately it isn't right on your doorstep so isn't going to suit.

In slight fairness it has been especially grim up north this year. The CX racing thread shows people further south making use of file tread and intermediate tyres whilst almost every race since September up here has been wall to wall mud. Rivington gritstone (where I assume the OP rides) is particularly abrasive (a friend now living in the S.Lakes has noticed a big difference in wear of bearings etc).


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 1:38 pm
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You know, I'm almost tempted to help you out on this.

I work in Central Manchester. Drop bike with me and a week later you'll have it back completely stripped and rebuilt. Forks and shock to TF Tuned (I can get free postage but obviously you'll still end up with the bill for servcie) and my LBS will do most of the rest.

Someone somewhere just needs to show you the difference in quality between your back street bloke (who's busy creating work for himself by slagging off places like Rebound) and an actual proper shop with proper tools and qualified mechanics.

By way of transparency, photos, full cost breakdown, full descriptions will be posted on here for all to see and examine and challenge. Full communication with you at every stage of repair, again available for all the helpful forumites to view.
And I'm sure there must be a couple of people on here who'd vouch for me as well.

What do you say?
It will be more expensive initially but it'll save you the next 6 months of back and forth with issues after fault after problem.
That said it may well be cheaper than you expect because I still believe that your "mechanic" friend is creating a lot of these problems in the first place.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 1:56 pm
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Repair it.

Then buy a rigid singlespeed for the winter.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 2:08 pm
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I remember reading through your trials and tribulations before, @grannyjone. I know that you've spent a fortune, we're reading the same pattern as before, with a "local mechanic" who appears to be somewhat erratic with his recommendations.

First thing first: Suspension.

I've never heard of Rebound Suspension, but I have heard of TF Tuned and Loco Tuning and have experience with both. You'll need to remove forks/shock/dropper post, clean them and send them via the post, but you're getting a quality job done with servicing.

Second thing: Bearings

Your Camber's suspension bearings are press fit and require specialist tools to drift out and press back in. This is one job that you need to be going back to your local Specialized dealer to sort, your warranty will be invalidated if you don't. Last time I had mine sorted, it cost me £100(ish), but I had absolute confidence that the mechanic knew what they were doing and had the correct tools to hand. Most importantly, if the Spesh dealer did botch the bearings, I had redress.

[url= https://www.specialized.com/gb/en/store-finder ]Specialized Dealer Locator[/url]

Third thing: Rear mech and shifter

What exactly is wrong with them? If the shifter is stiff, then cables would be the culprit, unless the mechanism is contaminated with gritty water. The latter can be sorted with GT-85 and a bit of lube. Some SRAM rear mechs can go baggy with use, but if the shifting is out and cannot be fixed by cable tension, then the issue is more likely to be down to the mech hanger, which is about £15.

Fourth: Bottom Bracket

Spend a bit extra on a Hope BB with stainless steel bearings, get it fitted by a competent bike shop. Job done.

[url= http://www.hopetech.com/product/press-fit-pf46-bottom-bracket/ ]Hope PF46 BB[/url]

Fifth: Brake bleeding

I know that you've been here before with brakes. If your Camber has Shimano brakes, then a bleed kit is available for not a lot of money and bleeding them is a doddle. I've not tried the modern SRAM stuff, so cannot comment on how easy or otherwise it is. You could spend less than £20 on a bleeding kit and fluid (make sure you get the correct fluid for your brand of brake - Shimano uses mineral oil) and you'll be able to bleed your own brakes every few months. It'll pay for itself.

[url= http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-parts/bike-brakes/shimano-disc-brake-mineral-oil-bleed-kit ]Shimano bleed kit and reservoir[/url]

Sixth: Paint.

This job isn't cheap if you want a reasonable job done. If your Spesh warranty is invalidated because of the bearing changes, then you may be best served by getting the frame powder coated. Powder coating is tougher than paint, if done properly the results will look very good indeed. But for the love of Jebus, make absolutely sure that you go somewhere you've researched thoroughly. I'm sure that some of the North West's STW massive will give you pointers, I'd ask them before talking to your mechanic.

Alternatively, if you must have paint then look no further than Argos Cycles or Ooey Custom Paint - both are Specialized approved but do expect to pay in the region of £350 (you'll need the bearings removed before repaint anyway, so factor this in too). You would also be well served by getting either Argos or Ooey to fit an Invisiframe kit, which will protect your paintwork from scratches. It's not cheap (circa £130 including fitting), but it works.

[url= http://ooeycustompaint.com/ ]Ooey Custom Paint[/url]

[url= http://argoscycles.com/ ]Argos Racing Cycles[/url]

Final thing:

Given that you're doing a ride a week in the winter months, perhaps the very best thing that you could do would be to buy yourself a winter hardtail, with a Deore groupset and a rigid fork.

And I hope that I shouldn't have to suggest that you ditch the mechanic and find yourself a Specialized dealer nearby. It might mean extra hassle, but it'll pay dividends in the long term.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 2:11 pm
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PJM + (mathematical symbol that looks like a sideways 8 )


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 2:14 pm
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I don't stand a chance in being able to learn this stuff.

Given your seeming inability to weigh up and consider advice and options, this seems like a fair point.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 2:25 pm
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Please take crazy-legs up on their (his?) offer.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 2:35 pm
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Please take crazy-legs up on their (his?) offer

^ This x100.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 2:37 pm
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Fifth: Brake bleeding

.....and you'll be able to bleed your own brakes every few months...

Just a point of note, brakes don't [i]need [/i]bleeding regularly unless they're broken.

Renewing the fluid annually is a good idea for sure, maybe even bi-annually if they get extreme use, but under normal circumstances a brake shouldn't need bleeding unless you've broken something (leak etc.) or deliberately removed a hose.

They don't just magically ingest air for the fun of it, and the rate at which brake fluid degrades or absorbs moisture from the air (given the semi-sealed nature of the reservoir) is small, if you have a brake that needs [i]regular[/i] bleeding, you have a broken brake or it's not been bled properly in the first place.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 2:48 pm
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I think that you should definitely take Mr Legs up on his offer.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 2:53 pm
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I've just read this and the previous thread, and I think I understand now what the fundamental problem is.

You simply cannot be arsed.

You were given a lot of good advice in the previous thread, and have ignored all of it.

You've had competent mechanics recommended to you but you can't be arsed to drive anywhere and prefer to take it to a halfwit working out of his front room.

You've been told where to get your forks serviced properly, but you won't do that, because you can't be arsed.

You've been advised to learn how do basic maintenance tasks yourself, be that online videos or a course, and haven't done so because you can't be arsed. You said 11 months ago that you were going to start trying to do so - have you?

You've said you have a second bike but don't use it as it doesn't fit, you were told how to fix it and haven't given any indications that you've been arsed to do that.

You've been given a tremendous offer to sort the bike once and for all by a trusted member of the forum, and I'll bet dollars to donuts that you won't be arsed to do that either.

So in answer to your OP, I don't think buying a new bike is the right thing to do, because in six months' time it'll be as sodded as this one is now. Because you still won't be arsed.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 3:28 pm
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@cougar he can't be arsed to read all that


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 3:31 pm
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One other thought:

My mate's missus goes through drivetrain and brake components like Jimmy Savile through small boys. Not because she does a lot of riding, but because she has zero mechanical sympathy. I've no idea what your riding style is like, but given your pathological aversion to Allen keys perhaps a skills course might help you become a smoother rider and thus improve the longevity of your bike components?

Y'know, if you can be arsed.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 3:31 pm
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I should add, given that we spend time in different forums and you don't really know me,

I'm not trying to be mean or unkind. It's just that if you ever hope to rectify this beyond throwing money at the problem and hoping it'll go away, you need to start taking some of the advice you've been given. Some of that may be inconvenient, but it's a lot less inconvenient in the long run than making do with a broken bike for two years.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 3:49 pm
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I think Cougar has nailed it.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 3:49 pm
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So in answer to your OP, I don't think buying a new bike is the right thing to do, because in six months' time [i][u]it'll be as sodded as this one is now[/u][/i]. Because you still won't be arsed.

I particularly enjoyed the phrase underlined


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 3:57 pm
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“cougar drops microphone and walks away”


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 4:03 pm
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Stop being such a chopper and learn how to fix your bike

😀

Personally the only mechanic I use is for a full service on a shock. All the rest is simple enough for anyone to do.

Maybe the OP is only 11 years old and lacks confidence in his ability to undo/tighten a bolt etc.

You could really save yourself some money and service/repair your bike yourself. Saved money = upgrades.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 4:04 pm
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😆 Cheers guys.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 4:05 pm
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This has got to be a pisstake surely? Every option put forward is shot down / ignored. If it's not...learn. It's a bloody push bike, not open heart surgery. Even servicing a pair of forks isn't rocket science especially the likes of RS who publish pretty detailed instructions.

I'm no mechanical genius but have figured stuff out / managed to read and follow instructions and bought a few tools along the way and have three reliable bikes that don't cost me a fortune.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 4:48 pm
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Incidentally, did a mod secretly delete a post that may have been deemed a bit illconsidered?

It wasn't mine either, mine are wilfully offensive.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 5:35 pm
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Wasn't me, but yes.


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 5:37 pm
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I don’t want to jump on a forum bandwagon, but I assume that the green/yellow bike in the background of the picture of the blue carbon Stumpjumper (the one with the bent mech-hanger) is yours, OP?


 
Posted : 22/01/2018 6:16 pm
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