[Closed] Is 1 x actually better?

i hate it.
i like a 22/32 front with a 12/36 on my tourer and a 12/46 on my mtb.

use what you like and what YOU think works for YOU

use what you like and what YOU think works for YOU

+1million

Is 1 x actually better?

yes/no/maybe, it depends, and a lot of that is on how you define 'better', 1x is often an acceptable compromise depending on what your requirements are, other times it's not.

but these threads will continue...

I'm a recent convert after getting a new bike back in September.

I was concerned I would miss the gears going from 3x9 to 1x11, but I don't. I think I've lost a gear at each end, but really like the simpler set up and a chain that never drops.

So yeah it really works for me, it might not work for you.

My gfs 12 speed eagle is even better and she will never run out of gears.

doggycam - Member

Slapping a massive gear cluster with a 50 tooth sprocket onto the rear wheel is not only unsprung, but rotating mass too.

XT 11-34t cassette = 294g, GX 10-42 cassette =315g, and the XD freehub is generally about 15g lighter so they're essentially the same weight.

Eagle 10-50 cassette = 354g, less 15g again, so the weight difference there is trifling (and you'll generally have a little less chain to boot)

I don't think it's better or worse- it's better for me but worse for some I'm sure. But so many of the arguments made about it are horseflops.

woooo bigger gaps between gears

Is that actually an issue, though?

can't say I've noticed it much.

Is bigger gaps between gears an issue? I did notice it at first but endevoured to select the harder one rather than the easier/slower option. Dont notice it now at all.

I like 1 X 11 a lot, thats all I know for sure.

It's better for some, but not for others. It's certainly not as efficient or durable as a 2x9 setup.

But "follow the herd" mentality is very prevalent in mountain biking; see 1x11, enduro bikes, VW Transporters etc. Most will do something because they've seen Steve Peat/Guy Martin/Dirt Mag do it.

I'd say by all means give it a go, and if you're happy on a SS then you'd be able to get away with a more normal sized cassette on the back. I used to use a road cassette on my hardtail which was fine for most stuff. Obviously these days no one can pedal stood up anymore due to the stupid head angles and 160mm of travel.

vongassit - Member

Is bigger gaps between gears an issue?

It barely exists tbh. The difference in gaps between a typical 11-34 and a 10-42 cassette are tiny. It only really becomes a thing if you're used to road cassettes but most people don't do that.

Horses for courses, depends how and what you ride and what you feel comfortable with.

The 2*10 SRAM setup on my HT seems to work well.

The 2*10 Shimamo setup I had on my full suspension not so well - always felt I was between gears.

I appreciate that the cassette teeth only vary slightly between the two setups but the Shimano ratios seemed off.

Switched the full suspension to a 1*10 with Sunrace 11-42t and 32t oval up front and it feels a lot better.

[img] [/img]

😆

I hated getting caught out on a steeper than expected climb and choosing whether to try and muscle it out or risk knackering the chain shifting to the little ring. In the end I spent most (probably 95%) of my time in the middle ring of a 3x set up. Now I just keep clicking until it feels ok, or dig in if I run out of clicks, which hasn't happened yet.

I really dont see any advantages to 1 x ...
My favourite set up is single speed

My old ratio is 17.9 gear inches, my new one 19.2. Which isn’t much different.

Its a fair bit different, maybe the difference between getting up a climb with tired legs and walking.
But the moral of this thread is ride what suits you and not be swayed by fashion. Also discussing gear ratios on a forum is pointless !!!

I'm not a massive fan of dinner plate sized rear cogs, do I've got 1x10 on both my geared MTBs (11-36), but with a granny ring fitted so I can heel kick down in an emergency.
Only had to use it once or twice, but it's there if needed.

No

ajantom - Member
I'm not a massive fan of dinner plate sized rear cogs, do I've got 1x10 on both my geared MTBs (11-36), but with a granny ring fitted so I can heel kick down in an emergency.
Only had to use it once or twice, but it's there if needed.

AKA the "stealth Granny"

I'm not a massive fan of dinner plate sized rear cogs, do I've got 1x10 on both my geared MTBs (11-36), but with a granny ring fitted so I can heel kick down in an emergency.

As for the excellent planning and prep to move both mechs to achieve the right gear change in advance why bother when you can just pick the next hear down or a few. Even shimano with di2 see that as a problem worth fixing with 2x

My Jeffsy is 2x and it's great. My hemlock was 1x but with a 9 spd 34 t cassette and that was too big a gear for steep tech

Saying that, the YT has 42t 11spd and I am considering 1x purely to loose a cable and shifter and de clutter the bars a little

What are you basing that on exactly? Is everyone on a par with you in terms of fitness, skills and confidence? MTBing as a sport has a wide demographic and broad spread of abilities - I don't think that everyone can or should be compared to any other rider.
overweight, 50yo on a fatbike around the tweed valley in the snow, i'm no olympian so anyone younger, lighter and with a non wide tyred bike that weighs as much as a 90s DH bike should cope with 1x
HTH

skills and confidence?

climbing? you just need to be able to balance and pedal surely? descending skills don't need gears, at least i don't use many going downhill, i'm more the feet up shouting woohoo! tyre of rider

Don't want to drag the point but you're not seeing the full picture IMO. Plenty of younger or older folk, on bikes that are not 'top end' and have less experience than you can and do have difficulty. Some of their bikes will weigh quite a bit and they are not so into the sport or simply restricted by finance that they cant/won't upgrade.

As for the climbing at one time I might have agreed with your statement but again I think you're looking at it from an experienced rider point of view. Many riders I have taken out have struggled with tight turns, step ups and slippy roots etc climbing. A few have found climbing more difficult than descending due to the limited momentum and increased likelihood of falling over. Some guys still say that after a few years of semi serious riding.

1x - better for me, i prefer the simplicity, lower weight. I ride everywhere with a 34-11-40 x11s
Same as wheel size, i'm not fussed if others like it or not.

Oh and on a full sus removing another thing to catch mud around the cranks / pivot is a bonus

I’ve read that the pivot location in relation to the chainring size can alter the anti squat characteristics on some bikes. Therefore wouldn’t a 2x system be better for giving you more anti squat when in the smaller chainring (when climbing) and less when your in the bigger ring (descending)?

I’d be interested to hear peoples views on this. I will be treating myself to a new frame in a few months which can have a front mech.

Don't want to drag the point but you're not seeing the full picture IMO. Plenty of younger or older folk, on bikes that are not 'top end' and have less experience than you

my point is if someone as rubbish on a bike and unfit as i am can do it anyone can

@rustyspanner 1x is great on the road actually. And on the cross bike.

Well it is for me. For the way that I ride, for the kind of riding I like doing, and on bikes that I like to ride.

And that's sort of the point isn't it?

Certainly wouldn’t call 1x better, just another option like others have said. Pro’s and con’s to each set up, non of which are earth shattering.

Both my modern bikes are 1x11 simply because that’s how they came. Would have been just as happy with a front mech.

I have come very close to running out of gears at both end but not to the point it’s been a problem. I imagine people who ride a bit further or harder than me might benefit from more range.