[Closed] Internal routing - grrrr - reverting to external options?

Swapping a one-off ball-ache for a constant ball-ache IMO

Search for 'cable guide stick on' at eBay - I'd also use a cable tie to secure them.

However as much as I feel your pain personally I'd perseve with the internal.

Been there.

Feed a gear cable through the routing and use a magnet / coat hanger to grab the stopper end. Then feed cable outer over the inner, before re-running the inner. Can be done in 10mins or so.

That said, running external routing does make sense. Be very aware of cable movement and sawing of the frame.

You can buy little black 3M stick-on cable guides, Wiggle used to sell them. They last a long time (but not indefinitely) if you properly clean the surface with alcohol before sticking on.

Swapping a one-off ball-ache for a constant ball-ache IMO

100% this.

Having done an Orange Stage 4 - yes its a 'bit tricky' but thats it.

Start with thread, move onto a sacrificial gear inner. Run the outer and brake hose over the gear inner. An hour or so of faff rather than riding a bike with horrid stick on things and zip-ties all over it for the next few years?

Found them - https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cables/mpart-selfadhesive-cable-guides-3m-pack-of-3

TBH, I agree with the above, I'd bite the bullet and get the gear cables done internally at least.

I do hate internal routing for brakes, needing to cut hose and refit olives every time I remove a brake is not for me

Buy the Park internal cabling toolkit And I’ll buy it off you afterwards for £15 less than it costs you.

I've done the same Stage 4 frame as Snotrag - plus another Stage 6 - and I'd agree that it's a horrid job, but just bite the bullet and do it.

See if you can borrow the Park internal cabling tools, or bodge something similar yourself.

It's the dropper cable round the BB that I've found the hardest bit BTW, but got there in the end.

It's not that hard when their are no components bolted on/in place
Magnet and patience

Where abouts are you op

Cotton thread, sucked through with a vacuum cleaner, as a starting point, then tape the cable/hose to that and pull through

I bloody hate internal routing and it's clearly part of the effort to "black-box" modern bicycles. I'd go so far as to say I would actively choose an external routed frame over in internally routed one all other things being equal...

Having said that, when I've had to do it on a frame for the first time, making it the very first job you tackle it the best idea, being able to get a finger in through the BB or head tube unimpeded by components is the least annoying way to have to play the game....

I've got half a dozen of the sticky ones in the spares box

Internal cables are the work of the devil.  internally routed hoses even more so (dripping potentially corrosive brake fluid all over the inside of your frame where you can't see it while feeding the cable through?  No thanks)

If I were looking for a bike I'd specifically look for one with full external routing, apart form maybe the Dropper, as externally routed droppers seem to be fairly rare/limited.

Internal cables are the work of the devil. internally routed hoses even more so (

Seconded. and hydraulic dropper posts even worse as you need to remove to service (you can generally fix/bleed brakes in situ) K's Spectral reverb needs a service and my heart sank when I remembered the faff it had been to fit.

potentially corrosive brake fluid all over the inside of your frame

Really?

Start with thread, move onto a sacrificial gear inner. Run the outer and brake hose over the gear inner.

I’d never run the hose over an inner. Inner—> Outer —> attached end of outer to hose, ideally with one of those red screw in things that come with Reverbs. Those are possibly the most useful tool for internal hoses.

Definitely no oil inside the frame (not that I think that’s a thing). Quick lever bleed and you’re done.

I Don't understand why the reverb is still hydraulic, I brought one a few years ago as my mates kept telling me they were the best ones around but I wouldn't buy another one as I feel no benefit over the cable Brand X one that came on my mega, which being an alloy one has very neat external routing.

I've found the hydro actuator on Reverb to be more reliable than cable which are susceptible to damp, muck, seezing etc. Remember cable brakes? That's not to say Reverbs are more reliable overall though, and for the money I can live with cable droppers.

Sounds like your only option is axs...
Feel free to show this post to your significant other... just figure out how to stop them scrolling up to the £2 stick on guides or the £0 use a bit of patience options suggested above

@fooman

I’ve found the hydro actuator on Reverb to be more reliable than cable which are susceptible to damp, muck, seezing etc. Remember cable brakes?

The opposite. Hydro made some sense when all droppers were external and most ended with an upward facing cable at the post. I've never had any issues with internal cable droppers seizing up (and, to be honest, since nearly all bikes run a continuous gear cable I normally break a mech or end up removing it for some reason before a gear cable needs replacing these days).

I've broken a couple of dropper levers with my knees, and seen some smashed reverb actuators or ripped off hoses, but that's a different problem

Cotton thread, sucked through with a vacuum cleaner, as a starting point, then tape the cable/hose to that and pull through

This 100%

Thanks for all the tips guys. I don’t think I’ve got the patience though - especially for the brakes. I did actually manage to get one half of the gear cable done but then gave up - maybe I’ll persevere on that one.

How much do you think local bike shop would charge to fit the brakes hoses properly etc?

You can buy rivet on cable attachments.

e.g. (much cheaper elsewhere)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Yuauy-Derailleur-Fitting-Housing-Durable/dp/B07JLFHQRL

or ad a rivnut/clinchnut and these

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/ragley-cable-guide-kit