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Changed the forks on my MK2.1 (Carbon) Nomad to some 36's from the previous 34's and I couldn't believe how the front end felt like it was trying to lift constantly when trying to climb anything vaguely steep. Now I know my noodely legs and poor technique probably didn't help but I'm wondering if increasing the axel to crown height hasn't helped. On paper there is apparently 7.4 mm of difference
36 A2C 536.4mm
34 A2C 559mm
I had already taken out a stem spacer either 5 or 10mm I can't remember which to make the stem height the same before I rode it.
Wondering if I can swap the cane creek 40 ec49/40 external lower cup for a internal zero stack cup. Forks are 1 1/8th straight steerer which makes it a bit easier.
SC website specs an External EC49/40:EC49/38 but I'm wondering if I can get away with an internal lower cup to reduce the effective fork length?
I don't see any reason why you shouldn't fit a zero stack lower cup if you're running an old-style straight steerer, but I guess there my be a potential issue with clearance between fork-top adjusters and the downtube - have a look at how much clearance there is already, it it's tight, then it might be a problem.
You could also consider flatter bars and, if applicable, a lower rise stem, Or, possibly - I don't know much about Fox 36s - reduce the fork travel by 10mm. You could also try riding with more sag on the fork, which'll have the same effect. You could even move the saddle forward slightly to put more weight on the front end.
I'm willing to believe that the notional - it may be more - 7.4mm difference could be detectable, I find quite small differences in front-end height are noticeable, though I get that some riders don't seem to care.
When manufacturers say they have designed a frame to use an external bottom cup… they tend to mean it. Ignoring them could mean an expensive fork dial meets downtube incident when you bars spin in an off.
On paper there is apparently 7.4 mm of difference
36 A2C 536.4mm
34 A2C 559mm
Those numbers don't add up.
Aside from the A-C lengths being the wrong way round, you won’t be able to fit an internal cup headset to that frame while using a tapered steerer. 49mm headtube with a 40mm crown race seat won’t play together as there’s no room for bearings.
dropping your bars might help, but suspect it’s the now too slack seat tube angle and now too short reach figure that’s the issue. Best solution would be to reduce fork travel to compensate if that’s possible?
A 2 degree angleset from Superestar or works would lower the front end a bit and steepen the seat angle a touch too which might help if you don't have downtube clearance for an internal headset cup.