[Closed] Intense Tracer or Turner 5 spot frame?

Rusty - what do those HAS prices work out at in GBP? I couldn't work out what currency it started out as 310 and 400 somethings 🙂

hora can the 5 spot take a 203mm rear disk? It is a trail bike after all!

I would have thought you would have plenty of power with a 183 disk on the rear.

I am of a chunky build and use a 160 rear disk!

Rusty, I was having issues with brakes and with a France trip planned I decided to get bigger rotors (up from 160mm/15.5 stone rider) so I clicked on the bigger size. I don't get anywhere near locking up the rear etc so it can't be too bad.

I was told the 5spot is not suitable for 8" disks and would invalidate the warranty (by Merlin)

I'm heavy and 180 works fine

Interested in those headsets, I think they work out around £70 - anyone got one?

RM - are you unfamiliar with Hora's completely irrational urge to BUY... MORE... STUFF?!

He'll have sold this frame within 2 weeks anyway, siting some nonsensical reason, and he'll be posting stupid questions about his next 'project'. Unless he goes back to his default position and buys YET ANOTHER blur 4X

Hey if it work for you it works for you. I'm a similar weight and it just seemd a mahoooosive disk to put on the back.

Enjoy the new bike, I've got an Iron Hose Mk3 and really like the DW Link suspension and reckon when it dies a 5 Spot will be it's replacement.

What colour did you get?

[Edit] Warantee was my thought as well [/Edit]

binners

I've noticed he seems to go through bikes faster than my girlfriend goes through shoes 😉

yoshimi, i'm thinking of one for my 5 spot.

These guys also do them

[url] http://www.workscomponents.co.uk/new---10-degree-ec34---traditional-1-18-fitment-6-p.asp [/url]

[img] [/img]

they seem good and only just down the road.

RM - are you unfamiliar with Hora's completely irrational urge to BUY... MORE... STUFF?!

He'll have sold this frame within 2 weeks anyway, siting some nonsensical reason, and he'll be posting stupid questions about his next 'project'. Unless he goes back to his default position and buys YET ANOTHER blur 4X

Not if I've paid this much. Only on secondhand frames where I can get exactly back what I've paid for it. I'm a serial swapper but I don't burn money.

Thanks for the common sense- buying a 180 rotor at the sametime as the adaptor.

Back OT - its interesting to go to the Turner website and look at the MBR PDF's review. Although the Turner wins ultimately, lots of comment is made about its weight, ride characteristics and olden' day shaped tubes, with comments about the other bikes.

It wins by a small margin according to "feel" but the other bikes advatages are pointed out - relevant to this then - the Tracer being a plausable lighter frame, better climber and more fun/feedback on the trail. Would be worth the OP reading it IMO.

FWIW I rode a DW bike (a pivot) and although it wasnt set up for me the Sus felt a bit "dull" in comparision to my Tracer (w/coil).

Good call Vortex:) Now to decide how much angle - I think you have the same fork as me, 150mmRevs - I'm leaning more toward the 1.5deg - but then again I'm currently watching out for some Fox 36, decisions, decisions....

A 180 or 183 at the back will be more than enough. Unless you're a real fatty.

i'm going for the 1deg one. and yip running a 150mm Rev.

Not if I've paid this much. Only on secondhand frames where I can get exactly back what I've paid for it. I'm a serial swapper but I don't burn money.

If it's worth £999 now brand new and with warranty, what makes you think it will be worth that when it's a few months old, used and with no warranty?

Kryton57 - Horse/stable bolted.

I've pointed out the above. I've got a frame with warranty/back up versus a used frame with a reputation for misalignment etc etc plus the cost of new pivots sooner rather than later and a shock service circa £100 extra.

Why would I go for a frame thats only better in certain areas?

I'd need to be a bloody good rider to pick out the small differences/benefits between either frame 🙂

If it's worth £999 now brand new and with warranty, what makes you think it will be worth that when it's a few months old, used and with no warranty?

Why would I sell a frame thats cost me a grand in a few months? It'll go in a year for £700.

Like I said. I used two Blur4x's for 2.5yrs for zero cost. The last fullprice FS frame I bought was a 2004 Heckler.

Don't think he does think he'll get the price he paid on this one back, that is why he HAS to keep this one. Shame it's a large i'd need a medium 😉

AlexSimon - Member
Rusty - what do those HAS prices work out at in GBP? I couldn't work out what currency it started out as 310 and 400 somethings

Hi Alex...I couldn't recall exactly, so I've just checked my Paypal records and it cost me £121 inc. P&P. Can't remember if I had duty fees on top of that but i don't think so.

Sorry, bit of a numpty here, Vortex and Yoshi... what would be the tangible effect of slackening the HA ?

Reducers the BB height a tad, better on descents?

5 spot vs tracer?
You've made the right choice Hora.

One of the guys I ride with has a 2010 5-Spot and recently fitted one of those Israeli made angle reducer cups that slackened things off by 1.5 degrees.

He was all ready to bin the 5-Spot before he did that as he didn't feel comfortable on it but since he fitted the headset he's far happier with how it handles. He can ride really well so I trust his judgement.

what would be the tangible effect of slackening the HA ?

Slightly longer wheelbase and more stable on the descents.

quite a bit on it here, it seems to have a positive effect on the DH but no detriment on the climbs.

[url] http://forums.mtbr.com/turner/5-spot-~67-deg-hta-maybe-bit-less-672117.html [/url]

Sorry, bit of a numpty here, Vortex and Yoshi... what would be the tangible effect of slackening the HA ?

You could ride like a god and not a nob 😛

In actual riding terms, the effect of reducing the HA is that you are able to weight the front end with a little more confidence; on steep tight turns, the front is going to feel less like it wants to tuck under giving you the ability to get more weight over it, which gives you more bite and thus grip.
At speed, the bike will feel less twitchy although to be honest, you'd have to be going pretty bloody fast to really notice it.

One thing you may find though is that at speed, the bike requires less concentration to keep it going just where you want it. At speed, you tend to steer more by instinct rather than overt input on the bars, which means you are concentrating a lot more on keeping the bike doing what you want it to do.

I know that sounds a bit 'fluffy' but it's the net effect of steering by weight distribution, body position and the alignment of your head, shoulders, elbows and hips. These are far less tangible that actually turning the bars thus I describe it as 'intuitive'. You're less aware of the actual inputs so it means you have to concentrate more on feeling what the bike is doing.

It can be mentally quite tiring; on one very long and very fast descent in alps recently I found myself getting mentally tired keeping up with the guide long before I got physically tired.

A slacker bike makes it easier to keep things in line at high speed as the bike is less sensitive to steering inputs hence it can be less tiring.

Saying that I utterly hated the 456 summer season (Pikes) yet loved the 456 (Pikes).

Thanks GT... Now I;m kind of interested in this as my 5 Spot feels like its going to tip me over the bars on the very steep stuff, but general fast descending it feels fine.

Does it work by effectively lengthening the head tube ? If that is the case, unless you have spacers above or below your stem your going to need a new fork as well aren't you ? or am I missing something blindingly obvious ?

It just 'tilts' the angle that the fork steerer sits in the headtube Dave

The other good thing is that it alters the HA without raising the BB height.

Sorry, bit of a numpty here, Vortex and Yoshi... what would be the tangible effect of slackening the HA ?

just because everyone else is doing it init!

Thanks GT... Now I;m kind of interested in this as my 5 Spot feels like its going to tip me over the bars on the very steep stuff, but general fast descending it feels fine.

this for me is the real reason - on technical steep stuff it does feel a bit steep, I prefer to feel a bit further back

Have a do on my pig next time we're out, 67.5 HA.

Hora, if theres anyone who should spend their money on a skills course instead of a bike then its you 😉

My reply to that would be

You can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink..

and my reply to that would be

fine by me, you make the rest of us look good

hora - Member

Why would I sell a frame thats cost me a grand in a few months? It'll go in a year for £700.

Why indeed

+1 Kryton57

Rode a DW Turner for a year before switching to Tracer. The Intense is a better climber and has better trail feedback. But some people prefer the plush-/dull-ness of the DW-Link

There is absolutely no way the tracer is a better climber than the spot. Pointing down it [i]may[/i] be slightly better but up? No chance.
I've owned a 5.5 and had a good amount of time on a Tracer, so this isn't guesswork wither.

brant - Member
There will be a used El Guapo going on on-one soon. As I just got my first 2012/2013 sample built
Really like them.
POSTED 1 DAY AGO # REPORT-POST

How well do they climb? Bikeradar review was mixed? Not that I go off reviews!

When buying a 5-6 travel frame why would 'how it climbs' be a consideration/question?

Surely if climbing is a big thing for you you wouldn't be considering a long travel frame?

I bloody hope I haven't picked the wrong horse here because I've cross-referenced and trusted the reviews but to talk about how a 5/6 inch frame climbs?

Hmmmmm.

I have a 6 inch bike. I use it to climb all the time. That's the whole point of an "All mountain" bike - a bike that gets to the top, and goes down.

If I didn't give a shit how it climbed, I'd just ride a downhill bike.

"There is absolutely no way the tracer is a better climber than the spot. Pointing down it may be slightly better but up? No chance.
I've owned a 5.5 and had a good amount of time on a Tracer, so this isn't guesswork wither."

Just your opinion and nothing more. And here is mine...

Hora, buy the bike you like the look of. Personally, I'd be more interested in a bikes pointing downwards capabilities than it's pointing upwards capabilities. But that's just me.

When buying a 5-6 travel frame why would 'how it climbs' be a consideration/
question?

How else do you get to the top of the hill?

You pedal. So long as you get there...

Hora, buy the bike you like the look of. Personally, I'd be more interested in a bikes pointing downwards capabilities than it's pointing upwards capabilities. But that's just me

Funnily enough, the reason he's looking at the Spot/Tracer is because he struggles to pedal his SX Trail uphill.

No interest in how the bike climbs though, clearly.

When buying a 5-6 travel frame why would 'how it climbs' be a consideration/question?

Surely if climbing is a big thing for you you wouldn't be considering a long travel frame?

I bloody hope I haven't picked the wrong horse here because I've cross-referenced and trusted the reviews but to talk about how a 5/6 inch frame climbs?

Hmmmmm.

It climbs just fine.. in or out of the saddle. If your struggling then its down to you mate.. not the bike.

Even my 6.5inch travel Slopestyle climbs pretty well, actually very well. It's no Zesty on the ups, but I just don't care.