[Closed] If you were getting a custom frame, what would you spec?

Sliding dropouts
internal routing for brake cables
New fangled headtube size thingy so Its futured proofed
Forward facing seat clamp
Maybe hub gear routing

I already did 😎

Sliding dropouts (why have seperate ones for SS?).
Full braze ons (gear cables under BB).
130mm fork (no need for shorter) IMO.
Slack angles (then fashionable)

I'd go for a steeper seat tube now and maybe a belt drive option. I'm never going to be rad enough for ISCG or tapered forks, and internal cables are rubbish.

Yes, sliding dropouts are a better idea I'm sure. These look nice:

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Something that took the best parts of my Soda and my BFe and put them into one frame.

So:- Titanium; best with a 140mm fork, but able to take a 160mm; the toughness and tracking of the BFe but the zing and comfort of the Soda. Probably a 1.5 headtube so I can use an internal top headset cup and keep bar height sensible, ISCG mounts, 31.6 seat tube for dropper posts. Clearance for a 2.5 tyre

an electric motor

Three three top tubes 😯

Only the one top tube please... don't understand why you need more!? Apart from to look a bit different I guess? 😆

EBB rather than sliding dropouts? Simpler / lighter / stronger?

Would consider an EBB, who makes the best one?

There is no point in a custom long travel hardtail because its only going to get abused, and if it isn't why have the travel? I would prefer something classic so ...

light and flexy
100mm
long and not too slack maybe 70/73
sliding drop outs
full length cables, under top tube, zip tied
2xbottle mounts, chain hanger
no mudguards or rack

psychle - Member
Would consider an EBB, who makes the best one?

Phil Wood

an Orange Alpine 160 front triangle, 07/08 Subzero back end... ...I wish!

I'd tend to agree with llama, but if you're going down the longish travel route, I'd want a seatube and guides for a dropper post and remote.
If you're going to do the beltdrive thing, then investigate a removable/bolt on rear triangle ala Mantis/CR7/Tranny. Could be a laugh.
Tapered headset for a cane creek angleset should you get the headangle wrong. 🙂

Oh, and a custom Jenn Green head badge.

I like my bikes to ride a bit more backwheel happy (I'm a skinny whippet type so prefer shorter stays to hold the front wheel up) so I would go for something short travel, steep, short CS for popping (rubbish) manuals with a low BB to keep it a bit more planted in sprints...

If possible I'd kinda like gold lined obscenely-floral (think hetchins) bi-laminate lugs on an Ivy green MTB frame with a drilled BB and wishbone stays,
71/73 with a long toptube to use a 70mm stem and wide flatbars. Low BB (280 or so), supershort chainstays (390-405) for singlespeed, setup for an 80-100mm fork. Trackends. Really low toptube a la Evil/dialled

Current vanity chariot custom is (yes I'm lucky enough to own a custom yin, in yer face) a clearcoated fillet brazed, 69/73 with a medium toptube to use a 90mm stem and wide flatbars. HIGH BB (310mm), supershort chainstays (405mm) for singlespeed, setup for a 130mm fork. Sliding drops, 460mm ST C-T, standard stays and a condor Aero road bridge.

Did that mean anything to anyone? Can you tell I've been thinking about this too much?

I dont get the 456/ragley nu'skool angles, the seats are wayyyyyyy too steep for efficient climbing with a lockdown fork, fine with a lockout, but not lock-down.

Start with a 456, run with tall 6" (or a 7") fork, an inch off the BB, and a lowered top tube (either cannondale prophet, dialled alpine/evil sov style I'm not fussed), shrink the top tube by just a bit off the 18", make the seat tube infront of the BB so the reach shortens with the saddle down (thus keeping it out the way).

full outer cable routing
post mount rear disc mount
adjustable wheelbase
maxle dropouts (or swappable)
ISCG tabs
capable of running a 140 fork with tapered headtube so its adaptable / future proof
forward facing seat clamp
sensible seat tube diameter, none of this 27.2mm
cable routing for a dropper post, but bolted on (like a Ragley) not brazed so if not using one the tubes are neater (ie they supply two sets of bolt on bosses, one for just brake and gear, one for brake, gear and seatpost remote and you bolt on whichever you need)
good mud clearance
custom laser etched graphics and my own designed metal head badge

oh and Titanium

I'd go for a cargobike - xtracycle standard but able to accommodate humungous rims like Surly's Rolling Darryl / Large Marge - low standover height, frame mounted front portage rack. Kind of like a pugsley big dummy cross - which has been done before. Custom everything - crank arms, sweep handlebars, stem.

Probably not the standard STWer dream bike.

I'd like to see more pics of that frame that Psychle posted. I've often wondered about internal hydraulic routing for the rear disc brake but couldn't work out a suitable way of getting it past the seat post or BB.

4 inch travel, heavy duty Ti single pivot, square section stays a la nicolai geometry a like a heckler but ti. Fat down tube, thinner sloping top tube, normal head tube not OS. Post mount, internal cables if poss.

Cannons.

Rohloff dropouts
Bushnell EBB
Designed for rigid forks
low bottom bracket
Rack and mudguard mounts
Tidy cable routing
Wonky down tube

like this:

Tandem with Emily Batty specced as front seat rider? - IGMC

65 head, 75 seat, 23.5"tt, 16" st, long wheelbase, low bb, not sliding dropouts or ebb (ive broke both) but maybe modular ones so maxle/ss etc an option. 1.5 ht, preferably no longer that 120mm to keep front end height sensible. forks up to 160mm, iscg, no bottle mounts or cable guides etc, just clamps to go round the tubes so you can add and remove as you please. clearance for dh tyres. make it as stiff as poss, let the tyres and forks do the absorbing

slowrider - sounds ace 🙂

Two.

One - slight modifications to my Nicolai Helius AM - almost the same but slightly longer top tube and uppy downy post mounts... that is all (although in reality probably not worth doing).

Two - New hardtail. To suit a 160mm 36 Float fork and big brakes. 1.5 headtube, 73 x 65 angles and a nice long top tube. Low top tube for standover and ISCG for HammerSchmidt. Lower bottom bracket than a few bikes I have tried. Full outer for all the cables and an uppy downy post. Adjustable dropouts and BIG tyres.
Make it from Ti... it's a dream bike after all.

a suspension corrected sunn bmix would be good.

cant be arsed with this long and slack fad. i like corners.

Bottle openers on every tube end. You can never have enough bottle openers.

psychle - Member

Yes, sliding dropouts are a better idea I'm sure. These look nice

Wrong. They look bloody gorgeous.

slack is a pig for the twisties.

I'm about to embark on building my own.
Columbus Zona steel, 29er.
HA 69 deg, Head tube 1.5" for tapered forks.
Longish Top tube with short stem
Very short stays, 420mm, maybe slightly less, with the ability to take the biggest tyres currently available with a bit of mudroom.
83mm BB to make the above possible and 150mm rear end to match.
Fairly low BB.
Full cable routing
ISCG05

I'm about to embark on building my own.
Columbus Zona steel, 29er.
HA 69 deg, Head tube 1.5" for tapered forks.
Longish Top tube with short stem
Very short stays, 420mm, maybe slightly less, with the ability to take the biggest tyres currently available with a bit of mudroom.
83mm BB to make the above possible and 150mm rear end to match.
Fairly low BB.
Full cable routing
ISCG05

Can I hav eone too please? 😀

You guys ever heard of Kingdom Bike Project? You want to put your ideas on there, you never know, you might get one!

Something in Ti, a hardtail that's light but can take a 120-140mm fork (maybe knocked down to 100mm should I fancy some XC racing). Basically a really gorgeous all-rounder that would last pretty much forever. Oh and it'd be raw Ti, none of this polished rubbish.

No idea about geometry of it though. I really like my old Cove Stiffee but then I really liked the totally different Cotic Soul when I rode one of those.

So basically you don't have a ****ing clue? 😛

A Ti hardtail with "Nu skool" angles so I can ride down sets of stairs without falling over the handle bars.

Adjustable "on the fly" dropouts so I can lengthen the chainstays which will give me extra (much needed) stabilty when I come to a tricky, high speed descent at my favourite trail centre.

2 inch headtube (so its future, future proofed)

Probably gold plated, custom head tube badge (based on the BMW design)

Mount for an M61 Vulcan cannon (just in case)

Something like a Cotic Soda with sliding dropouts and XX44 head tube.

If I was going for for sliding dropouts, I would have a post mount version made. Seems so obvious to me, especially after going to the effort to make something as lovely as the pic above. Would cost a little more, but worth it for the kind of frame that would warrant those dropouts in the first place.

Hmmm?
Maybe I'd get Rivendel to make me a rendition of my DMR Switchback.
& no stupid sliding dropouts either, they just look hideous. Just nice simple Breever style.

steel

27.2 seatpost

slack

full outer cabling

140mm fork

lightish

swop-outs (the DMR patented thing) so I can SS/Rohloff etc.

top swing front mech

mega curvy seat stays

standard, non tapering steerer please.

not too long a TT

maybe take that three finger thingy that Ragleys have on the chainstays

would like a polished steel look under the lacquer

caliper mount on the chainstay (I like the way it looks, and assume it would let you build in a bit more compliance on the seat stays = comfy)

filed down welds to make it look a bit titaniumish.

free.

For me personally it would be a all mountain full sus bike with a 62kg rider weight limit 🙂 Every item would be custom made to be all mountain performance, feel and stiffness but without having to cope with 16 stone riders battering the hell out of it.

@ Clink

course you can, I'll build mine, rag it, if it doesn't fall apart I'd be happy to build for someone else aswell. 🙂

I dont get the 456/ragley nu'skool angles, the seats are wayyyyyyy too steep for efficient climbing with a lockdown fork, fine with a lockout, but not lock-down.

They're fine with an unlocked fork too. I can't be arsed with all that levers and up/down nonsense. Just ride and up and down. Lock down forks are cludges for old bikes which people are trying to shoehorn more travel onto.

Any cables/hoses that run the top tube must be at 3 o' clock on the rhs. You sit on the top, you carry on the bottom and the chainset on the right means you have the left side of the TT against your ear.

A santa cruz chameleon, but no EBB. Sliding drop outs. Better welding to keep water/mud out.

If it was possible to make it stiffer and lighter that would be nice too..

A maxle rear end would be awesome.

Graphene frame (look it up, it's the shizzle), which would also have the capacity to house computer magic bits in the fabric of the frame. Therefore computer display in the toptube. It lights up too, with the capacity for internal battery holding in the tubing for night duty.

Non stick mud ejecting coating, vast tyre clearance and a gizmo which adjusts the BB height without adjusting the travel front or back.

Half rear end like a lefty (it's graphene, so 200 times stronger than steel) with adjustable geometry allowing different wheel sizes to be used without needing wasted frame; longer travel 26" or shorter 29". Twinned with an adjustable height fork you've got a lot of options. Nothing clamping around the frame, everything integrated. Cables/hoses internally routed (but easy to replace/adjust).

Well, while I'm inventing: my name on the inside of the chainstay (in that safe but slightly radioactive glow in the dark stuff). Concealed drivetrain and flared tubing to function as mudguards, it would be a crime to attach them to such a beast.

Pure adjustable stealth 😈

Herman Shake, if you did ever get that, would you dare to ride it?

Yes, but I'd make use of my lack of reality to get 2! One for looksies, one for ridesies.