If clutch mechs and...
 

[Closed] If clutch mechs and narrow wide chain rings are so good

 SOAP
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Why do all the downhillers still use chain devices?
I ran a clutch mech on a 2X10 set up and lost the chain twice at BPW on sixtapod which is a blue run.
Is it just a con?
35mm bars...when did you bend a 31.8?
Just a con?


 
Posted : 17/09/2013 8:41 pm
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I think everyone is so desperate to make sure they're riding the most up to date gear they forget its all about fun. I pick and chose what new tech I use and what suits me. FTR I ride with a full chain guide for security because my bike is used for DH runs not just single track


 
Posted : 17/09/2013 8:45 pm
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35mm bars...when did you bend a 31.8?

Thought this one was about allowing the currently trendy wiiiiide bars to be made lighter?

FWIW the bloke in the LBS reckons that clutch mechs will keep the chain on without a guide for XC mincecore. DH is going to need something else to keep the chain secure; clutch should reduce chainslap though.


 
Posted : 17/09/2013 8:48 pm
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SOAP - Member

I ran a clutch mech on a 2X10

I can see why you'd consider that relevant to the question of thick/thin chainrings 😆

I've not tried one on the dh bike yet, tbh there's less point on a big bike as the drawback of the device is smaller so I'm not rushing. But it worked well enough on my hardtail at fort william.


 
Posted : 17/09/2013 8:56 pm
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Quite a few of these mincers are sans chainguide

[url= http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Bikes-of-the-Enduro-World-Series.html ]Enduro[/url]

Seems to work for them


 
Posted : 17/09/2013 8:58 pm
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Ran a clutch/narrow-wide @ Antur and never dropped the chain once but I'm pretty sure the DH guys are a but quicker than me...


 
Posted : 17/09/2013 8:58 pm
 SOAP
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2x10 is more about the clutch not working to keep the chain on, I had to refit the lower device to the Pitch.
Maybe narrow/wide is only suitable for hardtails or a full sus on bridalway 😉


 
Posted : 17/09/2013 9:06 pm
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SOAP - Member

2x10 is more about the clutch not working to keep the chain on

It's not a 100% fix with 2x10, but then, that's why you use a thick/thin on 1x10 not a standard singlespeed ring. Now, have you tried no chain device and no clutch, vs no chain device and clutch, for a comparison there?

Having said that I've taken the stinger off my 2x9-and-a-bit full suss and never dropped the chain since inc a week in the alps, assorted uplifts, and some righteous crashes. It does still have a bash on though which will be helping a lot.


 
Posted : 17/09/2013 9:13 pm
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Why do all the downhillers still use chain devices?

As a downhiller, I run a chain guide cos it works, and there is no point whatsoever in me spunking a load of cash on something I don't need.

Plus, my 224 makes a row, I don't want to ruin that by adding a clutch mech to stop chain slap. The noise intimidates people when you're behind them, people can hear me coming a mile off, and it's a proven fact that bitches get moist over noisy Orange riders 😉


 
Posted : 17/09/2013 9:22 pm
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Running a clutch with an upper guide only on a 1 x 10 and have never lost a chain.


 
Posted : 17/09/2013 9:22 pm
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andypandy85 - Member

Plus, my 224 makes a row, I don't want to ruin that by adding a clutch mech to stop chain slap.

Don't worry, it takes more than that! (expanding foam for the swingarm and about 50 foot of velcro does a pretty good job, no longer sounds like a flight of stairs falling down a flight of stairs)


 
Posted : 17/09/2013 9:24 pm
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I wouldn't be surprised to see DHers using a thick-thin ring and clutch mech and full guide in the future - anything to stop a race run being ruined by chain loss. This mincer is using a thick-thin ring, top guide and clutch mech. Not fallen off yet - the chain that is, not me...


 
Posted : 17/09/2013 9:26 pm
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No guide no clutch no mincing no chain loss here, just run chain length as tight as I can get away with


 
Posted : 17/09/2013 9:29 pm
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I converted my bike to 1x10 with a narrow wide chainring on Saturday, had no problems on any of the runs at bikepark Wales, despite forgetting to switch the clutch on and running a chain that was too long. Some of those slab sections give the drivetrain a good working over, too.
It's magic, at least when new.
Be interesting to see what it's like after a couple of months of grinding paste though.


 
Posted : 17/09/2013 9:53 pm
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clutch mech and fat/thin ring here, no guide and its lovely!

not dropped a chain once, silent drivetrain. I'm a happy boy.

160mm travel, not ridden slowly. I think you'l find there are a fair few enduro bods running this way, I hope to be once of them next year!


 
Posted : 17/09/2013 11:07 pm
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Can someone explain the fat thin ring thing to me please?


 
Posted : 17/09/2013 11:20 pm
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My MRP chain guide also has a skid plate. No protection without it so I'll be keeping a full guide on my 1x10.
The Zee clutch mech has made it virtually silent though.


 
Posted : 17/09/2013 11:21 pm
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Can someone explain the fat thin ring thing to me please?

ever looked at a chain? look down on it, on hole is fat, the next is thin.....

marry this to a chainring that has fat and thin teeth, and your chain doesn't come off!

has to be 1x though as the nature of the chain not coming off, means it wouldn't change gear either!


 
Posted : 17/09/2013 11:32 pm
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Actually I was thinking about that... If you're running guideless, there's no reason you couldn't fit a granny ring, you'd just have to manually shift on and off it- keep it for emergencies, it'd add about 40 grams. Also, it'll confuse people.


 
Posted : 17/09/2013 11:36 pm
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not a bad idea northwind, I considered the same. however half the reason I'm 1x10 is to convince my legs to MAN UP!!

I'm sound until I start to tire after the 2 hr mark.... more fitness work needed!


 
Posted : 17/09/2013 11:43 pm
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If you're running a road casette and a single ring the chances are you'll already be getting some of the benefits just by running a short cage mech and a shorter chain. A clutch mech will be way down your shopping list, below or alongside a 10 speed cassette chain and shifter. Most downhill bikes have had the frame replaced more often than the chainring.

Meanwhile tyres, tyres, petrol and ginsters will keep being added to the top of the shopping list.


 
Posted : 18/09/2013 8:08 am
 wl
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XT clutch mech on my Five is mint - bike is silent and I never drop the chain even on very, very rough trails. I'll never buy another non-clutch. 35mm bars - WTF?! Pointless for virtually everyone.


 
Posted : 18/09/2013 10:29 am
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Is the clutch actually working? Mine needs adjustment to stiffen it up.


 
Posted : 18/09/2013 10:41 am
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+1 wot Buzz said.

I slipped the chain last week (for the first time in 700-odd miles) so have added some tension to the band brake in the mech. Haven't tried it on the same bit of trail yet to see if it has improved things mind you.


 
Posted : 18/09/2013 10:57 am
 SOAP
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I've added more tension but that's made the shifter pretty stiff.
Think ill be leaving the stinger on because it Works.
If I fall off I'd rather it be my own fault than the bikes. You have got to trust your ride 100%.


 
Posted : 18/09/2013 11:11 am
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Why do all the downhillers still use chain devices?
I ran a clutch mech on a 2X10 set up and lost the chain twice at BPW on sixtapod which is a blue run.
Is it just a con?
35mm bars...when did you bend a 31.8?
Just a con?

How on earth are you using a thick thin ring with 2x10?! Me thinks your confused.....You can't be running it on 2x10!

Dh riders ride for 3 mins and don't really care about slight extra drag, reliability is more important. Most trail riders on the other hand want a quiet, drag free and light setup = narrow / wide / thick / thin rings.

Mines been mint, Works components one ordered for £30 in the pre order and no dropped chain so far (clutch mech).


 
Posted : 18/09/2013 11:55 am
 SOAP
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Never said I was using a Thick/Thin.


 
Posted : 18/09/2013 12:13 pm
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Baffling....


 
Posted : 18/09/2013 12:21 pm