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HT11 chainset remov...
 

[Closed] HT11 chainset removal

 Pook
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[#1681344]

just a quick check

1- BB cap off
2- crank bolts loosen
3- crank off
4- chainset out; eased with a rubber mallet?


 
Posted : 07/06/2010 4:16 pm
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Think you need to swap 1 & 2, if you mean BB cap = plastic bearing preload cap thingy. Also watch out for the flippy out plastic shim peg thing too on XTs


 
Posted : 07/06/2010 4:19 pm
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Loosen bolts then remove cap or it's very tight. If you leave the little plastic spacer/security thing in between the bolts you might need to flick that out too before they'll come off. I always use a rubber mallet to get mine out/off.


 
Posted : 07/06/2010 4:20 pm
 Pook
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it's the rubber mallet bit I don't like. the chainset seems quite free rotation wise, but quite firm laterally. Needs a hefty whack to shift it.


 
Posted : 07/06/2010 4:34 pm
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If it didnt need a whack then you wouldnt need the mallet


 
Posted : 07/06/2010 4:36 pm
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Look at my article on HTII servicing - its a road crankset but same principles 🙂

http://www.cyclistno1.co.uk/features/maintenance/shimano-ultegra-hollowtech-ii-crank-service.htm

[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 07/06/2010 4:36 pm
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Just hit it Pook.


 
Posted : 07/06/2010 4:42 pm
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foxyrider, are you on commission for the number of hits on your how tos? :lol:Thats the second one i've seen linked to today (the other being hope bearing replacements)


 
Posted : 07/06/2010 6:03 pm
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it's the rubber mallet bit I don't like. the chainset seems quite free rotation wise, but quite firm laterally. Needs a hefty whack to shift it.

Fail to see why it has to be whacked - push out using palm of your hand - no problem. Ive done mine twice over the last 3 weeks - once to remove after being on my bike something like forever - and again this weekend - came out nicely both times.


 
Posted : 07/06/2010 7:07 pm
 Pook
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it has to be whacked cos mine's too tight in.


 
Posted : 07/06/2010 7:10 pm
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Dont worry, mine is quite a push on one of my bikes.
I think its the top hats can be a little tight. Just hit it firmly and you'll be fine. What could possibly go wrong?


 
Posted : 07/06/2010 9:38 pm
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@bigyinn - not I'm not unfortunately and I do it for free - Was just tryin' to be helpful 🙂


 
Posted : 08/06/2010 8:41 am
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Sorry it was meant to be tongue in cheek, sorry if it came across any other way. Smilie fail!


 
Posted : 08/06/2010 9:00 am
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What could possibly go wrong?

If it's a CK BB it could take the whole top hat assembly and outer bearing race off with the cranks exposing the bearings - but there's not much you can do about that bar putting it back together with more grease so it doesn't happen next time. Don't ask how I know etc...


 
Posted : 08/06/2010 9:02 am
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Sorry it was meant to be tongue in cheek, sorry if it came across any other way. Smilie fail!

No fail there bigyinn - I think my post failed - did not take it in a bad way at all 😀


 
Posted : 08/06/2010 9:04 am
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Foxyrider, a nice article, do you re rebuild your BB yourself or buy new ones?

Not mine but a great money saver.

http://www.mountainbikerides.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&catid=24:drivechain&id=35:shimano-hollowtech-ii-bottom-bracket-bearing-replacement&Itemid=9


 
Posted : 08/06/2010 10:34 am
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Yeh read that one tinsy - nice - I tend to re-grease until dead then bin then get a hope 😉


 
Posted : 08/06/2010 10:40 am
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I've got a SS HTII cups which i've put in some cheapo bearings (£1.60ea) just to see how long it lasts.
If it proves sucessful, im going to get my XT cups machined (family member works for machine shop) 1mm deeper (Shim BBs use / used 6mm rather than 7mm deep bearings) so i can reuse them with freely available 6805 2RS / 6180-5 2RS bearings.


 
Posted : 08/06/2010 10:50 am
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bigyinn, there seems to be some discrepancy on the Shimano cups, some are suited and use 7mm bearings already, I dont know if something changed since its introduction, but some are 6mm some are 7mm but I couldnt tell you what years and models are what...


 
Posted : 08/06/2010 10:53 am