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I'm running a pair of Hayes Strokers on my 2008 Chameleon, they are driving me insane, the rear disc(180mm)is rattling or chiming, Ive tried a couple of things to get it stop but it's not happening.
The disc is strait, Ive tried to tighten the clip/springs behind the pads as the pad seemed quite loose in the calliper, Ive eased some brake fluid out and checked that disc is not rubbing on any thing, but all haven't worked.
Is there something els I can do Cu's its doing my nut in ??
Any advise would be greatly appreciated
I had to replace the piston on mine when they started doing something similar. Turned out the pad had popped off the piston without me realising and subsequent braking had mashed the back of the pad into the post on the piston and bent it, the pad would clip back on but it was loose.
Got the spare bits from CRC...
I got a: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=20012
but seems they just do the piston to:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=20014
Fella from LBS told me its because spokes need tightening, not sure how true this is as your hub is solid in your frame and the rotor is attached to it. I could be wrong tho!!
if the spokes were loose enough they can bend outwards as you apply the brake, which means they could hit the calliper as they go round?
My stroker Rydes are going on the wifes bike. I only had them on my bike for 3 months (OEM) and they have been replaced by elixirs.
I don't think it's to do with the spokes as they are all tensioned OK, it doesn't rattle when the brakes are applied. only when peddling or freewheeling but does get worse when cornering.
Ill have a look at the pistons, see if theirs any thing obvious Ive missed, id hate to buy new pistons to find it didn't cure the problem.
Slack in the hub bearings allowing the hub flanges to move a bit out of the rotation axis?
what hub is it?
Shaiano (i.e. not very stiff) felx round corners meaning the whole disk/frame/calliper setup goes out of allignment. Swaped to hope hubs an no problems since.
There hope pro 2, dt swiss comp spokes on Spank subrosa rims, the wheels are true
Ive thought about hitting the calliper with a big hammer, but I don't think that will help?? 🙄
After more fettling today, still couldn't get it to stop rattling, so I borrowed my mates Juicy Ultimates to try, and guess what.....?? They rattle to, mind you I used the same rotors.
Any idea's ????
Mine used to have a similar sound with my 9's. I took off the rotor then put it back on, seemed to cure it for most of the time. Changed my forks and it got a lot better, cleaned up my caliper and mount and now it doesn't make a sound.
Just got the rear to do now.
Sounds like a crap build up round the pistons behind the pads.
Simply remove the pads, ptfe lube the piston while it is in its current location and leave for 2 minutes. Grab a cotton bud or 6 and then give the outer piston a quick clean. Then pump the brake lever slowly to reveal more of the piston. Allow it to move out 5mm each side and then add more ptfe lube and re clean. Then grab a few business cards and slide them in the gap and gently lever the pistons back with a 10mm spanner or thin screw driver to start with, just dont dent the pistons.
Thanks all... for your ideas, Ill methodically give them a good clean, lube and re-bleed them, see if that helps.
I checked to see if there was any movement in the Pro 2 hub bearings, there solid as a rock, not really surprising as there pretty much new.
A teeny bit of frame/hub/axle flex I think causes it on my bikes.
Sometimes in long corners on road can make it happen briefly. I've given up trying to stop it, even with perfect rotors it still happens.
Using the brake a bit can stop it sometimes.
The hayes strokers seem to be a good brake for pistons returning fairly well compared to some other brakes out there. you say you eased some fluid out.. you need to ease some back in ;O) but do what dimmadan just told you and reset the pistons hard into the piston bores before bleeding.
If its not done already,get the mount faced as well.also check that the pads are in a good flat/square condition. these two jobs should see a stroker clearing really well as along with shimano,they retract better than most brake systems.
After much fettling, Ive finally sorted them....to an extent, turns out when I bled them on the bike, there wasn't enough clearance between the rotor and the disc, plus slightly loose pads caused the the constant chiming. So I decide to bleed them using the plastic spacer joby you get with the brakes, this did the trick, the only problem now is there is a little more travel in the lever before contact, but I guess I cant have it all ways.
So Ive completely cured the rear but still have chiming on the front (which I didn't relise I had), but hopefully a new set of pads will solve that out.
I contacted Hayes and they told me that the pads are the issue and sent me new set of pads, quality customer service, all I was looking for was some advice and they fire out a new set of pads to me, nice one!
Thanks every one for you help on this, much appreciated 🙂
I cured the same problem by selling the Stroker Trails and buying a set of Avid elixirs. I just couldn't get them to stop rubbing - tried everything bar replacing the pads, which were brand new. Great brakes but I just couln't handle the constang skreeching.
I had problems with my front stroker screeching - cured by loosening off the caliper mounting bolts, spin the front wheel, pull the lever and then do up the bolts whilst keeping the lever held down.
I cured the same problem by selling the Stroker Trails and buying a set of Avid elixirs. I just couldn't get them to stop rubbing - tried everything bar replacing the pads, which were brand new. Great brakes but I just couln't handle the constang skreeching.
I bought those Stroker Trails off you, got you to fit them and set them up, and I've not had any issues since 😉