^^^^not so sure...brake hard early...read the road...I (sort of) ski and think its sort of similar- lose speed before you need to or deal with it
...as to dragging disk brakes last time was in the french Alps hire shop insisted I bring bike back midweek for brake pad check - I guess a lot of people do drag
..At a certain weight and incline you also don’t have any option but to drag your brakes unless you want to hit 110 kph
110kph without pedaling. Reckon on about 200kg and a 15 degree slope with minimal CdA
If your pedaling to 110 knowing there's a 90 degree corner coming then you should probably reconsider life choices before changing the brakes.
Ultegra calipers are cheap at the moment. I've never felt under-braked on my 8070 with 160mm front and rear and Shimano resin pads. Personally I'd look at fixing what you've got before spending a fortune on a Hope brake that might not make much difference.
As others have said though you should really be braking with your hands in the drops. Only takes a bit of water or grease on the hoods for your hand to slip off while trying to squeeze the brake.
Turns out MT900s are sold out everywhere, MT800 is cheaper and whiter, exactly the same rotor it seems and a bit more avail. For now went back to my 105 RT-70 160 mm rotors front and back, and will rebleed with shimano mineral oil plus get finned pads for the front..
RT-70 is a world better than SRAM XR centerlines, no noise, no fade, better power.
RT-70 is a world better than SRAM XR centerlines, no noise, no fade, better power.
I'm sure I mentioned this on your original thread 🙂
RT-70even unclipping and jamming your foot against the tyre is a world better than SRAM XR centerlines, no noise, no fade, better power.
Semi interestingly, it seems like the XTR/Saint RT99 rotors may be the very best design Shimano has made in terms of cooling power, but they're ugly and they went for a sleeker cooling fin "freeza" design for their MT800 and 900 series - but It looks like it not as good as the RT99 design which also adds another spider arm for the 160 mm rotor.
I'll get 160 mm MT900 front and back with finned sintered pads, rebleed with shimano mineral oil and call it a day - should be adequate and poss allow for better cooling than a Hope setup. To tease out a few percent more performance for a lot of money GRX levers should offer a bit more leverage.
Alternatively you were braking more or are heavier.
When I were a lad….and carbon rim brakes were all the rage dragging your brakes had an expensive (new rim) punishment
Saw the aftermath of some lightweight wheelset rims after one over brakes run back down Alp du huez……scrap.
I've descended AdH a couple of times without incident, so I'm fairly confident my technique is fine.
