I'm going to have to replace the rear wheel bearings in my Pro 4 again after less than six months. The main reason is that, try as I might, I always end up pressing/knocking one or both of them in squint, then having to knock it back out and try again. This torsional stressing is, I believe, significantly shortening the life of the bearing.
I've tried everything I can think of. I've put bearings in the freezer. Cleaned the bearing seats, lightly greased them etc. I'm using the correct presses and have used all of the following methods:
1) Free hand attempted precision tapping. Too light and nothing happens, too hard and it starts to go in on the piss.
2) External with a g-clamp pressing in.
3) Through the hub with an adapted headset press.
I've never got both bearings in square, first time. They say wheel building is a dark art, but it hasn't got anything on this!
Please help.
I’ve only changed mine once and had no issues with it. Just greased the bearing seats and used a bearing press with the correct sized press / drift things
Get properly sized bearing adaptors/ drifts that sit inside the bearing bore. Almost impossible to put in squint. I've got some wheels manufacturing ones with the right sized threaded rod.
never had an issue. tbh if its not working for you maybe a shop would be a better solution
You need a bearing press with the right sized drifts - anything else is a bodge..
Get yourself some of these plus a hammer:
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tools/hope-pro-2-evo-rear-bearing-support-bush-htt182-pair/
And watch this:
I done it recently - very easy. Smear of grease around the bearing so it slides in nice.
(You don' need the hub support they talk about in the video if it's built into a wheel.)
I've already got the correct presses. I'm just crap at using them, apparently.
🙂
Maybe do some practise hammering to develop your technique. Otherwise bike shop haha
Have you got the correct press and the correct sized drifts? With the Wheels Mfg proper drifts that sit snuggly in the correct sized threaded rod, im struggling to see how you do it wrong. My grandkids could (and have) done it.
If you are bodging with some parts with too much free play then you need a little more mechanical aptitude....
Another botched attempt. Another 'new' bearing installed with the equivalent of about 1500 miles wear already on it.
****, ****, ****, ****, ****.
Wheel building isn't a dark art, it's counting to 4 and being methodical.
Pressing bearings in just needs some care. I've pressed some in using the old bearing as a drift.
No idea what you're doing wrong if you're using the correct drifts. Once the bearings start going in the drifts should keep them square from memory.
I think (too late) I've figured something out. The non drive bearing goes in with thumb pressure alone. So why don't I install that one first then use the axle as a centre guide for the drive side. I'm pretty sure this is the opposite way around from what Hope advise, but I don't give a shit if it works.
If you've already got the Hope bearing tools have you the hub support also ?. The thing with the nylon top.
Its really just a matter of ,once the bearing is seated, giving it a good wallop on the end of the drift with a hammer. You can pretty much hear the difference in noise when the bearing is fully square. Sounds kind of like a Klack noise. And if it doesnt sound hollow then the bearing is fully in and square.
If the bearing isnt square the axle isnt going to go in easily. and tightening it all up is going to bind the hub so it doesnt turn freely.
Bu tI recommend using a steel hammer and not being sissy about it. Good solid manly whacks 😉
Got all the kit. The Hope advice is to install the driveside first, but seeing as the non drive will go in easily, I'm going to reverse the process next time. I've already ordered a replacement for the bearing I've mangled - that already has a notchy feel as a result of my cackhandedness.
One last attempt. If I **** it up again I'll just have to be a loser and take it to a shop. Bollocks.
Invest in the Hope tools and put the whole assembly (once you have removed the seal) into the oven at about 80 deg, the old bearings will drop out.
Once all the bearings are out, just before you insert the new ones (see hint below) warm up the free hub body again.
Put the new bearings in the freezer for 24 hours then press them in, they go in way easier.
job done !! 🙂
I can't fit a wheel in my oven. I think you've got it in your head that I'm talking freehub bearings. I'm not, I'm on about main wheel bearings...
But I'm not being punchy about it because any advice is good as far as I'm concerned.
👍
and I was thinking of the free hub, sorry my bad. 🙁
Have you got a blow torch, even a small one? just warming the hub up around the bearings helps
the other option is to put rest the hub (laced up) on the hob
Still do the freezer thing though it helps a lot.
Did one yesterday, no special tools . Warm up hub gently with heat gun, with this cold weather hubs may be quite cold so bearing will be even tighter. Cold bearings will help in this weather if they are in the shed or garage they should be cold enough . I then use a nice flat ended drift or socket sized slightly smaller than bearing. Use steel hammer and tap lightly looking all the time to make sure its going in level by eye and when its seated to tapping sound will change and don't hit too hard. If its going in skewed, stop and knock out and start again, warm hub cold bearings. I like to watch the bearing going in .
Going to give it another go. I can't see the harm of reversing the recommended order of things if it happens to make it easier. 🤷♂️
Having the axle in place in the bearing must mean it cannot go in squint, right?