Forum menu
Hi,
Tried taking my cassette off yesrday day - it pulled off the whole freehub, pawls etc.
It been caused by the cassette scoring the freehub - What do I do?
Assuming you have removed the lock ring i would just drift it out by resting cassette on the jaws of a vice and tapping free hub body with a hammer and a socket. Its not ideal but worked for me before.
Buy a cassette that's on a carrier like SLX/XT, or a steel freehub for the Pro2.
think you can do something with two chain whips, till you get the worst offending sprocket.
vice advice above is ok
proper cassette and/or freehub is the future soln.
I'll give the resting it on a vice followed by a few love taps a go.
Now thinkjng in investing in a steel hope freehub - but never ordered one so what does it include? does it include new pawls etc?
Google Doug @ Basque mtb - he's got a good video of how to get one off. I used his guide recently and it worked well.
thanks orena - I'll check it out before breaking out the big hammer tonight
Try the coin trick
Basically put coins where the skewer goes and then use the cassette tool and it slowly draws it off
2 Chain whips is best, it'll only be the botton 2 or 3 single sprokets that have cut in. If you don't have 2 (why would you!) I wrap a long peice of rag around the top few sprockets and wind it tight then use my 1 chain whip to loosen off the bottom sprockets. I'd avoid using a hammer your likely to cause more damage to the free hub.
I've noticed the newer (assumingly narrower) 10 speed sprockets cut in more than the old 9 speed stuff but have not yet had to replace a freehub due to damage. The steel ones are good but hefty if thats a consideration for you.
Sorted via the one chainwhip/rag wiggle and finished off with a little tap through the vice.
Cheers guys
One thing, the freehub is scored but the bearing, pawls, springs etc are perfect....new steel freehub or fine file to get rid of the burrs, therefore saving money when I need to!?
Put new cassette on old freehub and ride it.
Worst case is it will stick like the one you have just removed and you have to replace the freehub at that time. Otherwise keep going.
PaulD
Coulda woulda shouldah...bought shimano! 😀
PaulD you'll do for me!
Just make sure your next cassette is on a carrier like an XT cassette.
That's the plan next time!
Daft question but after taking all the pawls and springs out, how much grease should I stick back in.....actually I should probably check the hope site out shouldn't I
Grease will stop the pawls engaging. Put some think motor oil in or fox float fluid.
A thin coat of copper grease on the ratchet teeth all but eliminates the annoying pro 2 click (unless you like that sort of thing). Slx and some Sram have alloy carriers for much less than XT prices.
Copper grease will turn into a nice grinding paste. Something thinish like finish line (hey, that almost rhymes!) will be good. Wipe a glob around the ratchet and behind the seal. Put the pawls and springs in place with some and then press them down to squeeze out any excess.
Old XC hubs used to have problems with too much grease, but Pro2s have stronger springs.. Hence the annoying noise!
- where would the fun be then? There's your riding buddy, spinning away for all he's worth, thinking he's really beating you, and you coast up behind him with the hub ticking away loudly whilst humming a merry tune, possibly commenting on some interesting bit of fauna you've caught sight of. Sure it'd spoil the fun and give the game away if they turned around to see me spitting out bits of lung with a red, sweaty face.....eliminates the annoying pro 2 click
That's what I was worried about, putting in too much and having them not engage properly
Not heard about the motor oil / fox fluid but sounds reasonable - I have neither though so reckon I'll just go for a conservative amount of finish line grease and see how it goes