Hope Hoops w' ...
 

[Closed] Hope Hoops w' Stans rim - can't get tyre on at all - any suggestions?

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Hi

I've bought a Hope Hoops wheel on a Stan's ZTR Crest rim.

Trouble is, with the green rim tape that came with it, my WTB Nanoraptor won't go on. It's not even close. Without the rim tape, no problem. And I know the techniques, etc etc, have been doing this a long time. This tyre almost falls off a Mavic 717 so it's not particularly tight.

Have been going round in circles slightly. Stans say it should be used with their yellow rim tape only, but Wiggle (from whom I bought the wheel) don't stock it. Hope tweeted me back sounding helpful (problem sometimes happens, call us) but having spoken with them, they don't really have any suggestions other than sending them the wheel so they can look at it.

Before I return this bloody thing, any suggestions? Has anyone had this happen before? I'd rather just buy some cheapy rim tape that'd actually work, than mess around returning it, but I'm not sure what to get.


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 11:17 am
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I assume you're using tubes? The rims are really optimised to work best tubeless, so that the tyre is a tight fit and forms a good seal.

I tried using tubes with Crests for a while, then gave up and went tubeless. Tubeless is far better, and works perfectly with these rims.


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 11:21 am
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I just want to use up these tyres for one more summer, they're a bit old so probably not ideal for tubeless.


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 11:26 am
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Had this issue myself with that exact wheel. Just about got a FireXCPro on after 30 mins of trying, couldn't get my Nobbly Nic on.

Returned the wheel, got a XC717 instead. Not touched it since!


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 11:27 am
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They're very likely to be perfectly fine, especially if they're that tight.


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 11:28 am
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I think Stans specificaly state on their site that they won't work with WTB tubeles tyres as they're just too tight, and WTB state that their non tubeless tyres wont work tubeless as they're not strong enough.

I've got 'normal' (called Race IIRC as opposed to the cheep or tubeless versions) Bronsons and the front's blown off during inflation (c.a. 40psi) before.


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 11:29 am
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Just go tubless. Had the same problem with Nobby Nics and tubes. No puncture in 4 months, and the wheels feel more connected. You can probably go tubeless with your current tyres btw.


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 11:30 am
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Returned the wheel, got a XC717 instead. Not touched it since!

I did the same thing but replaced them for EX500s.


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 11:32 am
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Ah, thanks TINAS - I'll add that to the knowledge bank.


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 12:02 pm
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I had a Mutanoraptor on... Ooh, maybe a Flow but more likely an Olympic, it wasn't the easiest to bead up but it did go on without too much bother.

I'm using my Flows now with tubes but I still use the stans yellow tape instead of the green tape Hope supplied- works fine, and is several entire grams lighter. So if you can get it on fine without the green tape, I'd suggest that. (decent quality electric tape will do just as well as the expensive yellow tape, with a couple of wraps)


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 12:07 pm
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That Hope tape is horrible stuff ime. Makes it really difficult to get tyres to seat properly with tubes and disintegrates with use. Throw it away, buy some Stan's yellow and go tubeless.


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 12:11 pm
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I just successfully won a battle against tight tyres on Stans rims...

One thing that made a big difference was manually stretching the bead. Sat down, hold one end of the tyre in your hands, put your feet inside the other end of the tyre, and stretch the bead outwards with the awesome power of your legs.

Doing that, and working around the tyre to stretch it from 90 degree angles loosened up the tyre enough for me to get it on the rim.


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 12:16 pm
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some tyres are tighter than other and some not recommended as said above

the trick\tip is to drop bead into the well in the middle of the rim then pop one bit off and you'll be there. hopefully!

Any of you guys he are getting rid of Stans rims I'll gladly take your faulty rims off you, if you don't want 'em


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 12:25 pm
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Problem is, if they're that much of a b*****d to get on at home, and you have a split or tear that's too big to seal when you're out riding, how are you ever going to get them off to put a tube in?

You've shelled out on new wheels, complete the job by having some new rubber to go with them. Maxxis folding tyres seem to work well with Stans rims IME.


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 12:46 pm
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I destroyed a crest rim last night trying to get a new lust high roller onto the rim tubeless. Took so much force that the tyre lever has put holes into the rim bed. Not impressed, never done or heard of this happening.


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 12:49 pm
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Specialized 2bliss tyres work ace with stans rims and are relatively cheap too


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 12:51 pm
 br
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Buy a new tyre.
Buy some yellow Stans tape.
Set them up tubeless.


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 1:00 pm
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@ tthew

[url= http://tinyurl.com/blducjl ]tubeless repair kit[/url] will fix bigger holes that won't seal, if it's a proper big tear or side wall then a spare tubes unlikely to be any good either tbh unless you carry one of those tyre patches too.

Stans are tight but there is a knack, there are some tyre which are too tight though and if that's the case you'll need to change rims or tyres for a combo that works for you else as you've said you could get really stuck out with a long walk home


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 1:03 pm
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br +1
use 'em as they were designed or get new rims imho too
Roval Rim tape's just as good as the Stans imo but cheaper, much more on a roll.

I've had schwalbies, continentials and kenda's with no probs


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 1:08 pm
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Problem is, if they're that much of a b*****d to get on at home, and you have a split or tear that's too big to seal when you're out riding, how are you ever going to get them off to put a tube in?

I reckon 90~% of popels problems are user error, I've not resorted to tyre levers for years since a roadie showed me how to do it properly* even supposedly horrible tyre/rim combinations are a doddle.

And, the odds of actualy having to do any repairs are slim/none with tubeless. If its enough to wreck it then it would have wrecked a tube as well and may well be beyond saving even with one.

As for repair kits, after trying most of them I've settled on gaffa tape and impact adhesive, letting stans deal with any porosity of the tape.

*start opposite the valve and work it right into the center of the rim, do the valve last as it's obviously impossible to get thebead in the center there!


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 1:13 pm
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thisisnotaspoon - Member
I reckon 90~% of popels problems are user error, I've not resorted to tyre levers for years since a roadie showed me how to do it properly* ...

*start opposite the valve and work it right into the center of the rim, do the valve last as it's obviously impossible to get thebead in the center there!

def user error here as have always worked from the valve - will give that a go very fed up wrestling rims and tyres


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 2:04 pm
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Politely... but is everyone here made of money? I'm not going to just buy a new tyre because I've had to replace a broken wheel.


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 2:58 pm
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[i]I reckon 90~% of popels problems are user error[/i]

I know the techniques, I've been cycling for decades, I've even watched all the Stans sites videos just to see if there's something I'm missing.

The tape is the big difference. It goes on fine without it.


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 2:59 pm
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Take off the Hope tape and either fit Stans yellow tape or plain electrical insulating tape. I've managed to fit and remove Schwalbe Marathons on Arch EX rims with no tools, so anything should be possible ๐Ÿ™‚


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 3:01 pm
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Buy yellow tape and valves from Superstar. But Smorgasbord and/or Chunky Monkey from On-One. Job done. Proper cheap and totally effective.


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 3:23 pm
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I had a few tyres that were really hard to get on Crest rims but all have gone on with perseverance, washing up liquid and in one case after warming the tyres until quite hot with a hairdrier (a tip given on here that worked a treat).

That includes Conti Travel Contact folding which were the hardest, loads of different Schwalbe tyres, Rubber Queen, Mountain King etc


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 3:59 pm
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am i missing something?

why aren't stans rims like other tubeless rims where there is no need for rim tape?


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 4:03 pm
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Whathaveisaidnow - Member

why aren't stans rims like other tubeless rims where there is no need for rim tape?

Because making a rim with more conventional spoke holes makes for lighter weight and simpler wheelbuilding or design (frinstance, no little ferrule things like on most Mavics, or magnets and fannying around like on a Fulcrum) Tape seems bodgy but it's effective.

Roval, WTB and Ringle use the same system I think.


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 4:18 pm
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Tah ๐Ÿ™‚


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 4:22 pm
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Ringle use the Stans system, at least mine do.


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 4:26 pm
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Oh yeah- the important difference is the bead, you can't just stick yellow tape on any old rim and expect good results, but the Stans rims (and similiar) have a bed designed for tubeless. I've got assorted Stans and Rovals like this, and Mavic and Fulcrum proper UST, and tbh once the tape's on they all act much the same.


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 4:31 pm
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Just man up and get a few levers with washing up. Job done. Dont force it.


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 5:24 pm
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Get rid of the shitty tape and plenty of lube. Folders are a nicer fit.


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 5:25 pm
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@29erKeith,

tubeless repair kit will fix bigger holes that won't seal
Thanks for that, didn't know about them, and would probably have been a benefit when I tore my knob off in the lake district, (fnar). Did you mean the 'outside kit' though? That'd be more convenient on the trail.


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 7:03 pm
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I nearly did the same, spent hours swearing trying to get some Hans Dampf's fitted to crests. I then watched the video on stan's website and realised the trick required of pushing the tyre down into the well in the middle of the rim. You should get 75% of the way round, then make sure the tyre is right in the middle which frees up just enough slack to pop the remaining bit on.

I could easily fit them with tubes and the green tape.


 
Posted : 17/05/2013 8:48 pm