I have a small amount of play in my hope 1.5 headset, heard somewhere that it may need an additional thin shim adding? anyone know more?
Ta
The thin shims supplied are only for preloading the rubber seals, but you may need a thin spacer under the stem to allow you to preload the entire headset. Take off the top cap and you should see 2-3mm of stem sitting above the top of the steerer, if it's flush then you need an extra spacer to give that difference. Also worth checking that your star nut is deep enough into the steerer as the top cap (especially Hope ones)can bottom out on them.
The thin shims supplied are only for preloading the rubber seals,
Really? I thought they were there to simply lift the top cover of the headset (with the integral rubber seal) to relieve a little of the potential friction.
but you may need a thin spacer under the stem to allow you to preload the entire headset.
Really? What's wrong with the underside of the stem bearing onto the headset assembly?
Also worth checking that your star nut is deep enough into the steerer as the top cap (especially Hope ones)can bottom out on them.
Depends whether you're using a star fangled nut or Hope Head Doctor. If it's the latter make sure expansion section is deep enough into the steerer and that it's secure. Agree the inner lips of Hope top caps can interfere if the steerer isn't deep enough within the stem.
Also, beware overtightening the standard Hope bolt (if it's the alloy version) easy to shear.
Lastly, although probably worth checking this first, are the cups seated all the way in the headtube of your frame and are they flush/level. Facing might be required, however, IME it's rarely necessary. Only thing I've had to do is sand off paint bulges.
HTH