Forum menu
homemade bleed kit....
 

[Closed] homemade bleed kit..... what do i need?

Posts: 13281
Free Member
Topic starter
 

got a set of slx brakes coming my way except they are 'euro' set up, front brake on LHS.

what do i need to get them bled without having to visit a bikeshop....?


 
Posted : 20/04/2009 9:30 am
Posts: 13349
Free Member
 

What make of brake are they. Hopes just need a piece of hose and an assistant or rubberband.


 
Posted : 20/04/2009 9:41 am
Posts: 30656
Free Member
Posts: 621
Free Member
 

why do you need two syringes Jamie? Even doing a bottom up bleed you only need one don't you?


 
Posted : 20/04/2009 10:03 am
Posts: 30656
Free Member
 

I used 2 as they came in a pack of 2, and it turned out easier/faster to be pushing the fluid in from the bottom while sucking it through from the top (oh-er). No air bubbles left in the system guaranteed 😉


 
Posted : 20/04/2009 10:17 am
Posts: 2554
Free Member
 

I have been looking into this recently. The fluid/Syringes and pipes are the easy bit.

Magura and Avid brakes require a threaded fitting to go into the caliper so its impossible to replicate without paying the exorbitant price. Unless anyone has any solution for the connector.

If you have Hayes or Hope brakes i presume you get away with it because they have a bleed nipple


 
Posted : 20/04/2009 10:23 am
 DrP
Posts: 12113
Free Member
 

My little tip for bleeding brakes.....

Get a bunch of flowers from tesco, and often the individual stems have a little plastic pot they sit in, containing the water.
These have a nice rubber 'top' that the plant fits through, but also the rubber tubing sits snugly in.
Therefore, when bleeding the brakes, the oil runs through the tube and into the pot, and as its a tight fit the oil is nicely contained. You can get away with only 10-15cm of tubing hanging from the bleed nipple this way....

DrP


 
Posted : 20/04/2009 10:28 am
Posts: 27
Full Member
 

Why doesn't anyone read the OP? They're shimano brakes!!!


 
Posted : 20/04/2009 10:35 am
Posts: 2554
Free Member
 

I thought six's were Hopes?


 
Posted : 20/04/2009 10:43 am
Posts: 621
Free Member
 

I used 2 as they came in a pack of 2, and it turned out easier/faster to be pushing the fluid in from the bottom while sucking it through from the top (oh-er). No air bubbles left in the system guaranteed [:wink:]

Ah, gotcha! Ta


 
Posted : 20/04/2009 10:45 am
Posts: 13281
Free Member
Topic starter
 

thanks guys.

mineral oil. is that generic or is there a certain type i need for SHIMANO SLX...?

cheers

J


 
Posted : 20/04/2009 11:18 am
Posts: 13281
Free Member
Topic starter
 

mineral oil for SLX/shimano?

anyone?

cheers


 
Posted : 20/04/2009 1:07 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

Its all the same stuff. Just make sure it is mineral NOT dot. But if you are getting new brakes you should get a little bottle of fluid with them.


 
Posted : 20/04/2009 1:12 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

The Magura Royal Blood mineral oil works fine and mixes with the Shimano stuff okay, some say gives better performance due to lower viscosity.

You'll need replacement olives and inserts as you can't realisically get the old ones off and re-use them. My brakes came with spares.

SLX bleed really easily from the top in my experience without the need for syringes etc, the hardest part was finding a 7mm spanner. Just keep the reservoir topped up, it goes down pretty quick when you're pumping the lever. Check out the excellent instructions on the Shimano website for some good tips, it's dead easy.

Car washer hose is pretty much the right diameter to go on the nipple really securely, and you can get it at any decent car accessory shop.

I have an old set of bars I stick in my workstand, and a brake mount screwed to the leg of my workbench. Saves getting brake fluid all over the bike.

SLX are great brakes.


 
Posted : 20/04/2009 1:22 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

I got a almost lifetime supply of Shimano mineral oil from Wiggle for £13.

If the hoses will be of decent length than swapping hoses to levers shouldn't require a bleed after, even when shortened. [url= http://www.bikemagic.com/news/article/mps/uan/4807 ]Pics and description of how to do it 🙂 [/url]


 
Posted : 20/04/2009 1:32 pm
 StuF
Posts: 2098
Free Member
 

have a look at [url= http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/can-i-get-a-shimano-bleed-kit-from-halfords ]linky[/url] what theotherjonv said here - its my job for tonight.

If you're anywhere near Notts I've a litre of mineral oil and I need only a few ml


 
Posted : 20/04/2009 1:49 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

True, if you're just swapping the levers over and not shortening the hoses you might get away without bleeding them, just don't swing the hoses around or pull the levers or anything silly.

I think if you need shorten the hoses and have to put a new insert into them you'll end up having to bleed them if you want reliable top performance from your brakes. Often they work fine to start with, because any air bubbles migrate up into the master cylinder, then when you transport your bike upside down in your car they end up in the caliper or hose and you get spongy brakes.

Might be okay if you're careful.

Hang on a minute, is there any difference between the front and rear calipers?


 
Posted : 20/04/2009 1:54 pm
Posts: 13281
Free Member
Topic starter
 

good point.... i thought there was but now i'm not sure.

thanks mr Stuf. sadly there is a whole country and a sea between us, i'm in germany.


 
Posted : 20/04/2009 4:09 pm
Posts: 14707
Free Member
 

Halford LHM mineral oil - cheap as chips.


 
Posted : 20/04/2009 4:45 pm
Posts: 1
Free Member
 

I would replace the olives at the top of the hoses with new ones too. And add new barbs if you want to shorten the hioses at the same time.


 
Posted : 20/04/2009 6:43 pm
 StuF
Posts: 2098
Free Member
 

just to add the theotherjons method worked a treat - cup of tea did go cold as I rounded the little screws on top of the back brake reservoir and had to spend the next ten mins with a file and hacksaw trying to get enough purchase to turn the little bu@@er. I wouldn't have bothered doing the back if I hadn't drained the fluid already.

It may be worth testing the screws before draining....


 
Posted : 21/04/2009 10:19 pm