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I have a v strange thing going on with my mates crankset arrangements I wonder if any of you can help.
Bike was bought new from a dealer in standard 2011 spec.
After much searching I found the installation manual sheet [url= http://www.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/95-6115-006-000_rev_e_mtb_cranksets.pdf ]here.[/url]its the GXP which is the bottom right of this sheet.
I might have to draw this but I'll try and describe it..
The truvativ AKA crank (double and bash) on the non drive side can only pass so far through the non drive side bearing before it hits a shoulder on the axle. This seems normal, but the strange thing is that there is a 10 ish mm gap on the drive side between the inside of the spider and the plastic cap on the BB bearing, almost like there is a spacer missing. The BB has the correct no of spacers . (IE none for a 73mm shell)
It seems like the crank is too long for the BB, whihc has got me scratching my head a bit.
Now if you look to the left of that sheet, moving from GXP BB to BB30 I-A it shows a spacer on the drive side (that should be left out for XX installations.) This has me wondering if the dealer accidently used the wrong crank with this BB ...
Anyone know anything about this? I have me verniers and have done some measurements so I could do a sketch (although the measurements show a 10ish mm gap too..)
Sounds like it's probably set up right to me from what you're describing (although I could have missed something).
The drive side of GXP crankset I have effectively floats in the bearing, there's nothing to hold it there. Torquing the NDS crank down onto the NDS bearing fixes everything in the right place. On mine there's a fair sized gap between the bearing and the crank spider, no spacers or anything - the DS bearing is effectively loose, you don't tighten the crank down onto it at all.
Ahh mint imperial you have described it exactly. I agree, you torque it down on the NDS and it works fine, It just seems a bit weird. With yours being the same that points towards normality.
the DS bearing is effectively loose, you don't tighten the crank down onto it at all.
This. They really are a bit weird to work out when you first put them on, but it makes sense and seem to work ok once the non drive side is tightened.
I'll have a look at mine when I get in this morning and look for a gap.
Right thanks for the pointer you two. I've re-assembled, fiddled and convinced myself that its actually an excellent system, it removes a major flaw that is apparent in the design of some cranksets - sideload on the bearings.