[Closed] help - why is my new chain skipping?

Was the old one worn- if so new chainrings/cassette!

It's because your cassette is worn. The old chain was worn the same, so fitted. The new chain doesn't.

Time for a new rings/cassette.

worn cassette? they generally wear at the same rate as the chain.

Did you replace the cassette? The cassette will have worn to the old chain and hence won't now fit the new frame causing the skipping. You need to replace that too

How old is the cassette. Chain and cassette will wear together. If the cassette is worn then a new chain will skip over the teeth, particularly on the smaller gears. Increasing the length of the chain will decrease chain tension making the skipping worse.

If it is a worn cassette then the only solution is to fit a new one (or put back on the old chain if it hasn't stretched too much and run it into the ground).

Edit: d'oh got beaten too it.

well that sounds pretty conclusive, thanks all. thought it was bad enough having to pay for a new chain, new cassette two is gonna be painful!

I just want to see how many people can give the same advise, so here goes...
Have you checked the cassette?

seems this was a very rookie question. The truth is the only other time I've replaced a chain I happened to get a new cassette too, I just didn't put 2 and 2 together!

so next question, can anyone beat this price for the new cassette?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=8333

I know my own fault for specing pricey stuff!

Worth getting a chain wear measuring tool.
My Park one has two settings, ".75" for when its time to change and "1" for ... erm Knackered, I guess.

I have found that if I change the chain as soon as it hits .75 then I can get a couple of chains through a single cassette although that is on an XT cassette which, I guess may be a bit more hard wearing.

If you are using cheap cassettes, sometimes its a bit of a false economy swapping chains at the first sign of wear though for the sake of saving a cassette thats only cost £20.

The wear on the from rings should be much less as, at the end of the day, there are a lot more of them sharing the workload so I wouldnt bother changing them until they are either capable of drawing blood or start causing chainsuck.

If I am on my second chain on a cassette and its not my race bike, I just double check that I have my chain tool with me every ride and just use it till it starts breaking and then bin the lot!

john duke - Member

well that sounds pretty conclusive, thanks all. thought it was bad enough having to pay for a new chain, new cassette two is gonna be painful!

Not to mention when you fit the new cassette and it skips on the front and you end up changing the middle ring too. 😐

Had the same problem, and changed the centre ring,cassette and the chain,it was the free hub thatwas slipping,put all the old stuff back on a new cassette and it works fine,

Prop bike against wall with chain middle ring to middle ring, then gently apply pressure to pedal and see if the hub slips not the chain on the teeth of the ring or sprocket.
Try it on a few od the rear sprockets to check.

thanks for the advice, will check that out too.

>I have found that if I change the chain as soon as it hits .75 then I can get a couple of chains through a single

Just about to try this (was actually the original chain), first indications looks ok but haven't tried it under load yet.

T'other thing you can do is have a couple of chains and alternate them to spread the wear.

Cassette
without a doubt 😕
.
It's money spending time 😆

john duke.
before you buy a new casset. Have you got a split link on the chain?
My connex wiperman split link is directional and jumps if fitted the wrong way on the samllest casset cog.

just a thought.

buy 3 or 4 chains, and rotate them, or make sure you change the chain every 3 months, and youll quadruple the life of the casette.

ie: new chain and casette every, say year.
or, new casette every 3 years, new chain every 3 or 4 months.

i tend to buy bottom end chains (not nickel plated) in packs of 3.

Sound advice from Ollie
8)

You can ride the chain in. It only took me a couple of weeks.

FYI you can get Shimano XT from Merlin for £44 (possibly £42), or £41 at WoolyhatShop and they're lighter and possibly smoother shifting.

buy 3 or 4 chains, and rotate them, or make sure you change the chain every 3 months, and youll quadruple the life of the casette.

ie: new chain and casette every, say year.
or, new casette every 3 years, new chain every 3 or 4 months

So does that suggest that a worn chain wears a cassette faster or am I misunderstanding the advice?

Or is the advice to have 3 chains & use a different one each week (or so depending on ride frequency) to balance the wear across all 3?