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Two bolts hold the mech to the mounting plate, one has a slot behind it that holds a flippable insert to raise or lower the mech. Movement is limited though, if your chainrings are larger than standard then you're stuffed.
Its standard yeti stock parts ๐ is that bolt access from back of chainring?
Yep, behind the chainset, probably have to remove it unless you have tiny and dexterous fingers, and access for the allen key between the chainrings.
Its either of two set heights and looks like you are in the lower one. There is no setting up required just flip the oval insert behind the bolts and retighten.
@sv hi mate.. I cannot see what you mean"oval insert behind the bolts" from that picture.. I checked the mech trying to figure out or find what you mean. Sorry this E-type is mystery to me ๐ฅ
That bolt attached to (dark color) plate attach to frame.. Middle is slx mech.. And where the head of allen bolt.is piece of (brownish)metal.
As coatsey says ....see the pic below, see the two oval holes? There should be two oval pieces of metal to set height of the mech. Obviously if bolts at top of the oval, the mech is at its lowest position, bolts at bottom, mech at at it's highest. I don't bother with the metal bits (they act like spacers). On my bike the perfect height is bolts in middle of slots!
Depending on the size of the rings - you may be able to remove one of the crank retaining bolts and poke Allen key through to reach the bolts that hold mech on. (works on mine as luckily the hole lines up).
Aha. ๐ got it now.. Fingers cross holes in chainring would align.. In a not good scenario.. I might nedd to remove chainring right
Worst case yeah just pop the rings off ! Hopefully you will get to the bolt head - especially if you used a mult angled Allen key (not sure what technical name is but has a three dimensional "ball" at the end if you know what I mean!!!)
Good luck ๐ I aim for 2mm cage height above big ring - seems to shift very well. Any more or less I get cage rub.
Seems like luck is not part of my day today.. Managed to have one unscrewed.. But the inner one.. Just cant find a hole to align allen key with the bolt.. I cant see no alternative than taking off chainrings.. Can i take out just ring without removing the entire crank arm.. I think my tools kinda limited at the moment ๐
If you can get to all the bolts then yeah sure just pop ring off. The only think you may need is a flat thin knife/blade for holding the rear nuts in place while you do the ring bolts up during reassembly. There is a crank bolt tool available for this very purpose but i have never bothered - I just use a kitchen knife.
Why take the chainrings off when it's easier and quicker to take the whole crankset off? I timed it once and it was about four minutes from unshipping the chain to putting it back on afterwards.
As folk have said, as the heights are fixed, it's not as if you have to measure anything against the chainrings.
I reckon it would take me that long to unscrew four chainring bolts.
Seems crankset removal easy way to do this. Do i need special tool for this? Its a sram crankset attached to a stupid yeti frame that cause me this trouble
Ahh managed to flip that "oblong piece of metal" without removing crankset. All well now, cheers guys who reply to this thread, what would bike life be without you. Thanks again ๐


