[Closed] help make my Turner Flux better on the tech stuff

Drop your saddle and move your weight back? Cheaper than new forks. It's XC machine so the HA was always gonna be on the steeper side. Taller fork means taller BB.

Have you considered some coaching? Sometimes a head adjustment is worth more than a kit adjustment.

(This of course is not a slight on your riding ability - just a suggestion)

going clipless hasn't helped my confidence tbh

I also need a quick release collar as I ride quite high and cant be asred getting a allen key out of my bag and adjusting all the time.

Well I can see that the new fork won't really help you then.

Get QR collar on there and get the saddle.

Oh and MTFU too 8)

What about putting that top stem spacer [i]under[/i] the stem? Might bring your weight back on the steeper stuff...

Higher volume tyre on the front will be a cheap way to give you a bit more cushion and slacken it off a smidge too, and it'll add stability. Qr seat clamp if you don't already have one.

I have a Flux running 120mm Maxle Reba's and Flow Rims, can recommend 710mm bars and shorter stem also

Have you considered a Adjustable seatpost??

just bought the kcnc (which cost me a packet) so cant really change at the mo - plus I'd like to keep things as light as poss.

it would help though no doubts

I have mine in 2 setups - one similar to yours, the other with wider riser bars, shorter stem, pike uturn forks, flow wheels with high rollers and a dropper post. About 4.5lb heavier & 15mins to switch over. The 2nd is a load slower over xc ground but a good bit more capable on technical stuff.

tbh your xc setup currently is quite conservative. With your 0deg stem with lots of spacers under it your saddle to bar drop is pretty mellow. A bit more confidence and it's amazing what you can get it down - just look at the world cup xc guys. I'd think about a front tyre change and the addition of a quick release to start with and a wider bar and shorter stem next. All bar the QR will effect your pure xc performance though. Plenty use the flux with a 120mm fork and it's fine - I did until last week when I stripped my SID forks and put the spacers in to reduce the travel to 100mm. Tis better shorter in XC mode in my opinion but I'm lucky that I have other forks available to swap in. If I only had the 1 fork I'd probably have left it at the 120mm.

Run mine with Reba Maxle with U-Turn (90mm to 120mm), 700mm bars, 80mm stem, dropper seatpost.

I'd take the dropper seatpost over the ability to dial the forks out to 120mm...Flux rides very well at 100mm and I personally don't feel going 100mm to 120mm makes an appreciable difference. On the front, I'd take wider bars and a short stem over 120mm.

Use mine with the same spec for everything from trail riding to 100 milers.

[i]pike uturn forks[/i]

Blimey. Do you run those at 140mm? Bit over the recommended

I tend to run them at 110mm for most of most routes - but the axle to crown of the Pike is 10mm longer for any given travel length than something like a SID so it feels a little more. I wind it out to 125-130mm for nice long descents where is feels worth it. I have to say I can't see the full 140mm would be ideal - but the shear stiffness of the Pike in comparison to the SID is nice sometimes even if I don't use it at full length. Would be a pain dragging the weight around if riding against the clock though.

Would love to try it with Pikes. I do have some Fox Talas with 100-120-140 and 15mmQR that would be fun to try but I think it's best I stick with the Rebas. However, as I said, I think the Flux suits 100mm best...stiffer forks, wide bars, short stem yes but not necessarily 120mm.

Just do something, anything, to allow you to get that saddle out of the way. You'll be able to move freely and apply some body English. £20 for a QR clamp or go all-out and get a dropper. Knock 20-30mm off your stem while you have your wallet out.

120 fork, shorter stem, wider bars Done! a combination of subble changes will make a world of difference, don't go too nuts with it though its a xc bike, you don't want to turn it into something it isn't. Its a wicked looking bike btw.

[url= http://bicyclesnstuff.blogspot.com/ ]My mtb blog[/url]

Unless you have really short thighs move your seat back a bit.

I think it needs a new rider!

cheers all,

ok keep forks (save me a packet)
80mm stem
700ish low risers
qr seat clamp

I'll look at tyres when these are goosed

One quick thing to note is one of the reasons I got a dropper seatpost over just using a QR was that the Flux seattube is only reamed to about 21cm as per Greg at Turner. It depends how much seatpost you currently have in the frame but given I had about 15cm with my seatpost, it meant I could only drop it 5cm or so. You look like you have less seatpost in the frame so may not find this an issue with just a QR.

I ride a long travel hardtail.. and if I didn't put my seat down over tech stuff I would be in all sorts of trouble regarding body position and weight distribution..

that's deffo your simplest fix..

Why not a high rise bar? Try an old X-Lite XC from ebay for cheapness - they had a really nice rise to them. Or XC-2 for a little bit lighter.
Don't go much wider than your shoulders for XC or you'll be hitting all those trees when it gets tight.

Don't shorten the stem unless the cockpit is too long - it doesn't look like it is if you use those bar ends.

Several people on the turner mtbr forum run 120mm forks on their fluxes with no problem - it is actually 105mm at the back so less mismatched!.

What hubs do you have - you may be able to put some form of larger axle on the front for a bit more stiffness. Some hopes take a 9mm axle and so you could try that with you current forks.

Try a wider front tyre - different tyre with more grip.

I have managed to set my seatpost so it is nice for XC but I can also drop behind it if needed.

Dropping behind the saddle is something that is overdone by most people. If you go for some coaching with Jedi (better idea than new forks I reckon) he will look at your footwork and will get you to drop your heels rather than drop behind the saddle. Try it - it gives a much better link to the bike and everything feels more solid - many people do the opposite and are up on the balls of their feet instead.

Lose the idea that a couple of mm here or there makes any difference and look at what you are doing on the bike.

My Trance rides like a mini DH bike on the downs and that is mainly to the slacker head angle with the 120mm with 15mm axle Fox forks rather than the recommended 100mm forks, tiny stem and great Renthal bars! Pedals uphill nice too!!

I do have a dropper on mine to but TBH you can always stop and drop it an inch or two anyway before the good stuff.

100mm on a Trance? Surely it is 100mm on an Anthem, not a Trance?

Swap it for a 5 spot. Sorry, that doesn't help really does it.

i run my Flux with RS Revs set up at 120mm travel.... the 120mm/105mm works absolutely fine.

i have a lovely thomson layback seatpost at the mo (one of the long ones as i am jsut over 6ft and riding a large size frame, so it's pretty much extended for xc riding), however, on my christmas pressie list this year will be a rs reverb seatpost. it will add weight, but having now ridden the flux around affan, i think the value of being able to drop the post on the downhills will vastly outweigh any downside.... it will be like having two bikes in one!

go for a lesson with Jedi...

100mm stem, low rise bars, in line post, 120mm forks on mine, 5'11", size large - love it.

he will look at your footwork and will get you to drop your heels rather than drop behind the saddle. Try it - it gives a much better link to the bike and everything feels more solid

I agree to a certain extent and going on a course with jedi will certainly improve your riding..
For [i]steep technical[/i] terrain which admittedly I can only assume that the OP was referring to.. I would always lower my seat to be able to give a lower general centre of gravity and an abilty to shift weight distribution.. there's only so much you can accomplish by dropping your heels.. and it's not always safe to carry the bulk of your bodies' weight two feet above the back wheel.. and often I don't want the saddle getting in the way of all of these things.. IMO of course

the frame is quite compact (same geometry as my rocklobster) - thats why I went for a 100mm stem.

I think the biggest thing will be a qr for the post - but year a jedi course would no doubt help!

whats the prices etc? I'm in Bolton

coaching and a dropper seatpost would be the best bet, not wonder you kind technical descending hard with your saddle that high.

Yes, a dropper post is expensive, but its cheaper than a new set of teeth.

Get some coaching with Great Rock. Closer to you.

Theres a group run courses round Rivi... cant remember their name but google will help. Otherwise Ed O (great rock) runs courses at Lee Quarry, Gisburn and Hebden. Very highly recommended. If I had the cash I'd be booked in with him pronto.

how much are the courses?

Cheaper than new forks.

I know it goes against the forum rules, but...

...just ride it more. That will help it become better over all terrain.

...just ride it more.

And keep making the same mistakes?

jesus its sounds like a complete idiot bafoon on a bike - I just want to tweak a few things 😆

Face it...you just want an excuse for a "shiny bit purchase" excercise...dont you. 🙂 🙂

That bike clearly needs triple crowns & a 24" back wheel.

Either go riding with someone more confident/competent than you, or pay for some coaching.

What you might consider 'tech' could probably be easily conquered on a rigid.

It's all in the mind...

100mm on a Trance? Surely it is 100mm on an Anthem, not a Trance?

Not on my one which is the original one and came spec'd with 100mm forks:

Trance provides all the pedalling efficiency you want from a hard tail frame but with the added versatility of 4 inches of travel.

Fork Fox FRL, 100mm

I've struggled with eaxctly this with my Flux - it's great on the smooth singletrack but you're right, point it downwards over anything techy and wasn't so much fun.

My flux is HL but I found shortening the stem and getting wider riser bars definitely made a difference. Moving the forks from 100 to 120mm sealed it for me, IMO it totally transformed the ride. Do it, it's like getting a new bike.

And as people have said, a dropper post also would be a great idea.

Jeepers.

We're onto the second page, and no-one has asked the OP about the air pressure in his forks.

How much sag are you running in the forks, and do they dive? If you've not enough air in the forks, you may find that the front end dives on descents, as more of your weight is over the front of the bike. Try putting in a little more air to firm the forks up, and see if that helps. Then, if it doesn't consider spending all that money on shiny stuff. Air is free.

A rough guide: First, ensure the SID's positive and negative chambers are balanced - assuming it has them. For XC, aim for about 25 - 30% sag when on the bike in your normal riding position. If you don't have an o-ring on the stanchion to measure sag, just put a zip tie 'round it. If you have more than 30% sag, consider adding air.

Also double check the height of your seatpost. A quick way to do this is (again) to sit on the bike in your normal riding position. Put the heel of your shoe on the pedal, and backpedal to the lowest point - the point where the pedal is as far from your bum as possible. If you have to stretch to do this, then the seatpost is too high. If you're not sure, backpedal with your feet clipped in (It's helpful to be next to a wall and on level ground for all of this, by the way) and see if you can feel your hips rocking from side to side. Get a friend to check this if need be - if your hips remain level throughout the pedal stroke, then you're good.

I hope all this helps. My initial reaction was 'how long is that stem?' as 100mm is pretty long these days, but then I've no idea how tall you are. Not also that your bars are already pretty high, as you have plenty of spacers under the stem. If you need risers with the stem at that height, it might not just be too long a stem - it might be too small a frame.

Any road, I'd suggest tinkering with the air pressure first - air is, after all, free.
HTH,
Ben

cheers mate, the sag is around 25%.

I do like a high seat, I just feel more power is available like this.

I'm 5 10" btw.

the frame is medium

I might get a smaller stem before anything.

Only skimmed the thread, so apologies if someone else said this but:

Move the saddle back!

You've got an inline post and the saddle as far forward as it'll go which is really very far forward indeed, much more than the bike was designed for. This is guaranteed to induce the kind of stability issues you're talking about.

Move the saddle back and then it will need to be lowered a bit of course too. The lower and more rearward centre of gravity will probably transform the riding and cost you nowt.

You do not want your saddle too high. Your pelvis should not be rocking to and fro. It's easy to put the saddle up high and think 'yeah that's good for power' but it's an illusion - I used to do this until someone pointed out that my pelvis was rocking. I lowered it to a point that felt really far too low at first, but within a few rides I was used to it and now I appreciate that it's much better for spinning, and the handling benefits are huge.

Plus it costs nothing to try.

You must stick with it for a few rides though, don't just do it, sit on it and reject it though cos it'll feel really weird at first just cos it's different.

Another thing you can do is alter the sag front and rear. 25% or 33% or whatever are not golden rules. Different bikes, forks, riders and trails mean different settings work. I have maybe 40% sag on my 5, but with more pro-pedal to control compression.

Shorter stem would also be good. Shorter stem and saddle further back will move your whole weight backwards - to where the bike designers expected it to be!

But again - any change you make, give it time. It'll all feel weird at first.

Sefton - do you get any knee pain at the front of your knee?

As Molgrips says, try tinkering with the saddle position - it won't cost you nowt.

One other thing - is the sag at 25% with any Gate or platform on?

To reopen this thread. As I mentioned on page 1 I've just lowered the SIDs I bought for the flux down to 100mm. I bought the 120 SIDs to get a 15mm maxle but always had the intention to lower them. I rode it for a first good length proper ride yesterday post the reduction in fork travel and was really impressed how much better it climbed at the extrem end of the gradient range on climbs I've done before in other setups. Considerably less lifty and more control over direction. I'm glad I made the move and from a XC perspective I'd rather adjust my riding and improve my technique on the downy bits and have the benefit on the ups. Of course it does depend at what level of gradient you get off and push as to if it's worth it for you.....

I went from a 5 degree riser stem to zero degree on my flux to get better climbing 🙂