[Closed] Have we done Oval chainrings yet?

Well some were using them and some weren't so at some point Sky felt able to use them. Overall hard to draw conclusions either way as it a team is all using them then that could be just due to sponsorship too.

Didn't he use Osymmetric

Yep, both Froome and Wiggins

osymetric is not oval is a twincam

So, technically, I think SKY have never used "oval" rings 🙂

The GB track team would be a better measure of marginal gains than the more commercial SKY perhaps.... but are oval allowed on the track in the first place and would the slight tensioning and untensioning actually reduce performance I wonder? EDIT: Doesn't look like they are UCI legal for track

Pros generally don't give a monkeys what they ride. So long as they are comfortable, nothing fails and their numbers are heading in the right directions most will ride anything. It is the other members of a team that care about this type of stuff by and large.

I wouldn't have though it possible to use without a tensioning device - which I imagine wouldn't be used on a track bike?

I fancy trying 'em but they're just to expensive to take the risk, I'd also worry about losing my chain when changing down. Didn't Rotor used to let you try them "for free"? Can't see it on their site now though.

Didn't Rotor used to let you try them "for free"

Yes, it was basically "borrow a set of ring from the nearest LBS that stocks Rotor". I could never find any MTB rings to try

I wouldn't have though it possible to use without a tensioning device

People use them on their singlespeeds with hoizontal dropouts fine.There is a good video in Youtube somewhere showing that the chain tension barely changes through a crank revolution. Still, with the power they put down on the track I do agree that the slight change in tension may be undesirable.

Oval rings are rubbish. Stay away from them. Particularly if you race. And most particularly if you race in my category 😈

I did a long ride on a bike that happened to have rotor Q rings the other weekend. Can't say I noticed any difference to normal chainrings.

I'd assume that the major benefit of having a lower gearing when not in the most powerful part of the pedal stroke is a reduction in fatigue rather than an increase in power. Find it can be harder to make the same power when there's a lot of resistance and you have to push through the dead spots in the pedal stroke due to the different muscles involved. I'm tempted to do some experimenting on the TT bike.

I think I'd benefit, my pedalling is quite choppy, try pedalling down hill in a gear you've got no chance of "catching" and see how your legs react at the dead spots. I reckon I'm bloody terrible!

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=281442754074&alt=web

Some cheaper road ones there if anyone fancies....I'll order some when I'm back from hols..

Hi Guys,
Marcin at Absoluteblack here.
I found this topic as someone put my link here.

To explain few things.
Oval rings do not generate more power. Or another words you do not produce more power with them. Technically speaking they do, but gain is small that most power meters have bigger reading error to find it out. Hence we say they don't.

What they do however is:
*They make you quicker over the course of a (let say) lap because they do not fatigue your muscles as much as round rings. That means you can keep same average power for longer. So you will be quicker on certain distance. Hence we sey they do not generate more power but you can go quicker. You simply keep same level of effort longer.
* They hugely increase the grip when climbing. All my customers say very similar thing - power stroke is smoothened to the point where you feel more grip and your front wheel does not go up when climbing.
* They fatigue your muscles less, so you can push bigger oval ratio than on the round. (I mean oval 32T has 34T biggest ratio and 30T smallest one). So you will ride a bit quicker as well due to bigger leverage. But you will not feel it like pedaling round 34T.

* Ovals do not overwork clutch mech. at all. On my website near the bottom you can see the short video:
http://absoluteblack.cc/oval-104bcd-chainring.html
* SS configuration do not require tensioner. Changes in tension are very minor. For those who understand arithmetic I will say that no matter how you cut our oval shape on half, the arc length stays the same. So it picks up same amount of chain in minor axis as in major axis. It behaves same as round shape in this regards.

There is a very interesting topic I started on MTBR. So for those who are interested have a look. There is many people already using my rings and they post their experience over there.
http://forums.mtbr.com/singlespeed/oval-rings-unfair-advantage-singlespeed-932469-8.html

And lastly. I charge only 47gbp for the ring.. This is something which does not exist on the market, but will have best fit to it, as oval 32T ring has 30T smallest diameter and 34T biggest one. That is what most people are looking to use. It will fit best for someone who use now 28, 30 or 32T round ring.
Our ring has also threaded 104BCD holes with 2mm offset, so it can clear 30T smallest diameter and give you better chainline. In addition it is very light.

We are quite similar to Rotor rings. OneKey ring has different clocking so it will be difficult to compare them as clocking is the most cruical thing to ovals. If you get it wrong they will work differently. OneKey is about 30deg different in clocking to Rotor or mine so it will feel different when pedaling.

Have a look on this mtbr topic so you will understand a lot more.

M

Well they were pretty much standard on Shimano equipped road bikes years ago (even cheap Exage groupsets - my Harry Hall 531C had them). Then they seemed to go out of fashion. I've no idea if they contribute anything, but if the rider things they do, well...

I did a bit of experimenting with some Egg Rings (UK made oval rings) about 15yrs ago on a Cannondale Raven, when I was at mbr magazine.
Worked really well in terms of controlling suspension bobbing. Didn't work well in terms of shifting.
Narrow/Wide and big-range rear cassettes have opened this up again, and it's going to be cool to see if people adopt it. I'll have to give one a try.

standard on Shimano equipped road bikes years ago

Biopace was very different, I think the orientation was all wrong.

Marcin at Absoluteblack here.

Thanks for that. Could we have a 34t too please 🙂

Biopace was very different, I think the orientation was all wrong.

Biopace was at 90(ish) degrees to oval rings out there now. Shimano supposedly designed them considering momentum of the system (including leg weight) which apparently said that was the right way. Unfortunately their model was clearly all wrong and they were crap...

As soon as AbsoluteBlack have a 34t 104 bcd ring available I'm in. Very interested to try these 8)

...bit of experimenting with some Egg Rings (UK made oval rings) about 15yrs ago...

Potted history of Oval rings from Chris Bell here:

[url= http://www.highpath.net/index.html ]EGG Rings[/url]

Marko

My wonky 32t AbsoluteBlack ring has arrived! Was a bit worried when the chainring bolts turned up without a chainring the other day, but turns out I'd missed a mail from Marcin telling me it was going to be delayed a few days. Looks a very nicely CNC'd bit of kit. Shall pop it on, give it a bit of a thrashing, and report back soon.

still waiting for the 34t to become available, even checked their site today.

awaiting a full detailed report mrblobby.

If I like it I will be badgering him for a 34t. Notice the label on the pack does have a 32t and a 34t checkbox so the intention is obviously there to make some 34t.

Looks nice... 🙂

[img] [/img]

Interested in hearing about these too.

We really need a turbo/PM/HR comparison 😉

Just spotted these [url= http://www.bikerumor.com/2014/09/13/ib14-nikola-reinvents-the-pedal-w-sliding-q-factor-to-boost-power-efficiency/ ]pedals that slide on their spindles[/url] too. Quite interesting in a similar way to oval rings in trying to make more efficient use of the power you have. Probably of interest to the STW dodgy knee brigade too.

Now we just need
[img] [/img]
and tin foil headwear

I have Rotor Q Rings on my TT bike, can't say I can feel much difference, but if they cause less fatigue when riding for long periods at steady cadence, then the benefits will be impossible to quantify.

When you turn up at time trials, a large proportion (probably most) of the riders have Q Rings, O Rings or a variation. I know TTers are a bit sheep-like in their mentality (if Bottril wore a thong on the outside of his skinsuit, you can guarantee there would be dozens of them appearing at club 10s!) but they're also very diligent number crunchers and most use power meters.

So this would suggest to me that there's a benefit, although whether that would translate to mountain biking where cadence is so inconsistent, I would be quite doubtful.

G

but they're also very diligent number crunchers and most use power meters.

They also have a good feel for what it's like to ride at a certain power for a long period of time on specific courses, so can usually do a pretty good job of evaluating any changes and have loads of data for comparison.

although whether that would translate to mountain biking where cadence is so inconsistent, I would be quite doubtful.

I reckon it may actually be quite beneficial. For me cadence is typically lower when needing to generate lots of power on a mtb, so more resistance and longer in the "dead spot". Think the lower gearing through the dead spot would really help, especially when out of the saddle when the differential between the dead spot and power part of the stroke is much bigger.

So.... I've got a 32T on the hardtail which with the 11-36 cassette is, realistically, barely high and low enough, but more or less OK and I'm not adding a 42T on this bike. So, if I was to go with an oval ring, what would be the closest in overall effect to the 32T I have? Another 32T? Or is it still the case that you go up a size?

32T oval ring will suit best someone who uses 28, 30 or 32T chainring currently. While pedaling, you will feel quite similar effort to the one riding round 30T ring (as the smallest diameter of the oval is that size), but you will gain the speed similar to riding 32/34T chainring.

above is from absoluteblacks website

i seee spiderless sram have slipped to 5th november

Seems a bit contradictory that (tells me I should get a 32T but that it'll feel like a 30T) , which is why I was wondering about other opinions. 32T seems like the best option- since it'll give the same range but feel easier pedalling- but not sure.

whether that would translate to mountain biking where cadence is so inconsistent, I would be quite doubtful.

Im a huge fan of them, and I have some data I can sustain a higher 5min power with them than without- which is useful for Cross.. which I do, now this is just anecdotal I admit and the shifting on double set up is less crisp than Praxis/shimano. I do run 1x11 QCXC1 on my CX bikes and I find smooth application of power on muddy climbs is good, I'll be riding them next MTB season in a 1x11 application too.
Bruce

I reckon it may actually be quite beneficial. For me cadence is typically lower when needing to generate lots of power on a mtb, so more resistance and longer in the "dead spot". Think the lower gearing through the dead spot would really help, especially when out of the saddle when the differential between the dead spot and power part of the stroke is much bigger.

It's worth a try, but I think you'll find it impossible to quantify. You can't even trust timed reps of climbs on an MTB as you're never riding exactly the same line/surface twice.

I recently did a testing session with a coach and a Wattbike. Turns out I have almost perfect pedal technique and equal l/r balance. So I'm thinking the benefits would be less for me than for a "masher".

G

I recently did a testing session with a coach and a Wattbike. Turns out I have almost perfect pedal technique and equal l/r balance. So I'm thinking the benefits would be less for me than for a "masher".

I'll probably get on ok then 🙂

Though even with perfect technique you won't have a constant power through a revolution.

Very true, my biggest concern is that using Qs might compromise my pedaling technique on round chain rings. And I'm not about to upgrade all my bikes to ovals!

G

I'm not sure it would. Going back to Bottril, in his blog he said the biggest advantage he felt was in keeping the Q rings for racing but training on normal rings. So i don't think it's a problem switching between them. I can't actually feel any difference in the pedalling stroke between them.

I acquired some SR ovaltech rings for my winter hack. Not ridden any distance, but in normal configuration it felt very odd indeed. Massive increase in leg speed further in the power stroke.

Think I'm going to rotate them, think it was either one or two bolts anticlockwise (its 5 bolt pattern) to see if I can get them more small diameter at the dead spot, maybe that'll be better.

I switched to Rotor this year and really like them.
It is only when you switch back that you really notice the difference. Round rings just feel horrible now! As someone said above, rotor rings just make the pedals stroke more rounded.

For me the easiest difference to notice on the MTB was technical climbing. At times when you need that extra pop to get up a ledge/rock, etc you get in the power zone and it really helps.

The QX1 and QCX1 chainrings are very good with great chain retention.

So I'm thinking the benefits would be less for me than for a "masher".

Yes, I suspect the biggest benefit is when you're having to work hard through the dead spot in the stroke. So if you're spinning a lighter gear you'd probably get less benefit than if you are pushing a harder gear.

Just got my absolute black 32 oval yesterday, not had chance to try other than a quick round the houses. Does feel odd, but I think in a good way. I normally race with a 34 so if this works will get one when they are released and then run the 32 singlespeed. I do ride slow cadence however so I think this will suit me, my best 1hr power when training on the road bike is circa 80 cadence. No power meter on the mtb so any improvements may be subjective but if feels better when low speed techy climbing I'll be more than happy.

First ride on my oval ring and have to say it seems to suit me. Running two teeth lower at the front did mean that gearing is different than used to, but seated and stood low cadence climbing in slippy conditions did seem more controlled and certainly felt that could sprint well. High cadence and initial riding did feel odd at first but soon got used to the feeling, hard to describe but having used normal rings for over 25yrs it just didn't feel right.
Will be ordering a 34 as soon as released, always wanted to use rotors but the cost and the unknown was holding me back. For £50 was worth the experiment, no dropped chain either.

Waiting for the 38t 130 BCD ring here for sscx - reckon it'll it great for racing. Due in December apparently.

I race TT's against many who do and don't use them.

Can't say I've tried them but I'm pretty sure the benefits are minimal at best and probably more psychological as the fastest guys are just the fittest guys.

If they're was a clear advantage in using them I'm sure the pros would all use them as stuff like this gets tested to death these days.

I'm pretty sure the likes of Martin and Sparticus don't use them but Wiggo does.

I guess you pays your money.

I know there is plenty of you waiting for 34T, so it is now in stock and selling.

[img] [/img]

http://absoluteblack.cc/oval-104bcd-chainring.html <

Thanks for the update. Yet to try the 32t I've got, can I swap 😉

I ran a 24t 40% oval EggRing in Calderdale when I used to live there - that's 20t on the short axis and 28t on the long, so a lot more extreme than the rings being discussed here. With that in mind, I found it to be a revelation for both loaded (trailer hauling) and technical climbing. In my experience, you can apply power more evenly over more of the pedal stroke and it does get you through the dead spot more quickly.

As for shifting issues - not an problem with a single-ring set-up of course - I didn't really notice any... but then I avoid any sort of front mech indexing like the plague, which may have something to do with it...