I am just in the process of going 2x10 to 1x11, so all the hardware is in place .... but the chain line is totally wrong , so no chance of getting into the big cogs on the rear cassette.
I have made an assumption ... which is I can use an old 3x chain set, and just use the middle ring position .... however, I am now under the impression that 1x11 needs a specific chainset with the ring being further in-board ....
Is that my issue ... or is there something else obvious?
Thanks
Yes, the chainring on a proper 1x chainset is a bit nearer the chainstays than the middle-ring on a triple, but it can vary a bit.
To be clear, are you attempting to go 1x11 using a single ring (e.g. 32T) on the middle position of a tripe crank ?
If so, and it's too far out from the frame, you can swap the 2.5mm BB cup spacer from the drive-side to the non-drive-side, that might help.
I believe on a correctly setup 1x11, the chainline should be dead straight when in gear 5 or 6 etc..
yes , I am trying to do 1 x11 using an old triple crankset - using a narrow /wide chain ring on the middle position.
It is on a Production Privee ... so no spacers and a press fit BB.
I guess the other way is to try an space the new chain ring in somehow ... having just spent and extortionate 24 GBP on a 32 narrow / wide with 104 bolt spacing I am hoping to avoid going for a new crankset ...
Should have just stayed 2x10!
BTW ... slx7000 rear mech 11 speed, 11 speed chain, sunrise rear cassette 11 speed, old slx chain set
Hi done this on several bike you just need longer chain ring bolts and some 1 or 2 mm spacers. Most decent bike shops will have them in.
What is the chainline currently / which gear at the back does it line up with? The chainline of 1x specific cranksets is actually pretty wide, and I'm a bit surprised that the middle of a triple is significantly worse.
Thanks ... will go and have a better look tomorrow and write up an update ...
If I can buy ready made spacers (rather than bored out washers) that would be great ..
I know this sound stupid but what is the bast way of accurately determining what lines up at the back ... or is this just by eye?
At a guess it would seem that the chainring is about 5mm from where it should be ... but that is an assumption ...
Either eyeball it, or measure the chainline. Easiest way to do this is measure the width of the seat tube, and then the distance between chainring and seat tube and add half the first to the second.
I’m surprised as I have used old 3x cranks with zero issues. There again, I was using a external BB.
Bought steel spring washers on eBay with 10mm internal diameter. Fitted them on the inside of my xt cranks, the chain was dead center of my chain guide. This was with 1x10.
moofoo - you should be able to use your old chainring bolt/nuts (the ones you were using when the big and middle rings were bolted together). Although they'll only allow you to run the middle-ring inwards by the thickness of the old outer chainring, which might not be enough. If it is enough, you something like these:
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/chainsets/alloy-chainring-spacers-20-mm-for-middle-outer-ring-pack-of-5/
All up and running ....
whilst the front chain ring would benefit from being spaced in 1 mm ( which is is process) it changes fine...
The biggest issue seemed to be the PP OKA came with a very odd hanger that didn't work with a 11 speed derailleur. Thanks to DD Cycles, I now have the correct one ...
Today was the maiden ride ....