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Go Tubeless for £12
 

[Closed] Go Tubeless for £12

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I wrote at little go tubeless blog. Do both wheels for as little as £12. Hope this helps 🙂

[url= http://southernenduro.co.uk/enduro-race-tips-1-go-tubeless-for-under-12/ ]BLOG HERE[/url]


 
Posted : 23/12/2016 1:54 pm
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link broken??


 
Posted : 23/12/2016 1:58 pm
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Links no worky.

But I am guessing:

-Cheap valves? CRC "Airwave" or split BMX tube?
-Gorilla tape?
-Modelshop/ebay latex?


 
Posted : 23/12/2016 2:07 pm
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your pricing is out...


 
Posted : 23/12/2016 2:16 pm
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12 quid? what about the inflated (see what I did there) cost of tubeless tyres times 2? I'll warrant that's more than 12 quid.


 
Posted : 23/12/2016 2:16 pm
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Most tyres and rims are tubeless now days

Link: http://southernenduro.co.uk/enduro-race-tips-1-go-tubeless-for-under-12/


 
Posted : 23/12/2016 3:08 pm
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Did just this just the other day, used old continental valves, gorilla tape and the existing tyres (not tubeless specific) - cost a little more than £12 as bought Stans, but both tyres done in under an hour and still up.


 
Posted : 23/12/2016 3:20 pm
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Stan's used to have a list of officially non-tubeless tyres that worked on their website,


 
Posted : 23/12/2016 3:22 pm
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jimfrandisco with a track pump or ghetto inflator?


 
Posted : 23/12/2016 3:29 pm
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'non tubeless' tyres might go up ghetto, whether they stay inflated after 2 hours of riding is another matter. As I can attest after having to catch a black cab home 15 miles once. The tyre was a conti vertical, the sidewalls just couldn't take the pressure without a tube in.


 
Posted : 23/12/2016 3:32 pm
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Yes verticals are quite old skool tyres. Most 'Enduro' type tyres are ok tubeless ready or not.


 
Posted : 23/12/2016 3:35 pm
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Went up with just a track pump for me.
Interesting point about the strength of non-tubeless, that's not something I'd heard about/was aware of!
Is that because it's not often a problem or just obvious common knowledge that I've missed?!
Assume tyre split completely so even a tube no use?


 
Posted : 23/12/2016 3:47 pm
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I run non tubeless maxxis ardent on the back of my hardtail and it's peachy

I'm also a big fan of the coke bottle tubeless inflator


 
Posted : 23/12/2016 4:31 pm
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I've had tubeless-ready tyres that have needed a couple of doses of sealant to stop the sidewalls leaking.

Some of them have 'wept' sealant through the sidewalks too.


 
Posted : 23/12/2016 4:45 pm
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MTB tyres ratherbeintobago?


 
Posted : 23/12/2016 5:08 pm
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Aye


 
Posted : 23/12/2016 5:12 pm
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The ones that 'wept' MTB tyres or Road,cx etc.....


 
Posted : 23/12/2016 5:36 pm
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Yes, MTB tyres


 
Posted : 23/12/2016 5:49 pm
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I did a pair of wheels a few weeks ago, ghetto like, and they went up fine. They even stayed inflated overnight! All was tickety-boo until I rode over some fly-tipped shite some arsehole had dumped on the bridleway under the A19 near Seaham and picked up a dirty great 3" nail in the rear tyre. Cue one wrecked (new, expensive) tyre that needed a patch inside and one ex-tubeless wheel that's now running a tube. The front is still ok mind, silver lining and all that.

From my (admittedly unlucky) experience tubeless isn't worth the arse on or mess.


 
Posted : 23/12/2016 5:51 pm
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I've been running tubeless for about 12 years now (started off pretty much using the method explained by the OP - though back then there was no specific tyre sealant, so it was with standard latex solution). Have never used a tubeless tyre - or to my knowledge even a tubeless ready one. They've all worked just fine, though it does depend on the tyres - started off with Panaracer Fire XCs, also Conti Double Fighters but various Schwalbes for the last 8 or 9 years. I'm not quite sure what jekkyl means by "couldn't take the pressure" - some need quite a lot of latex sloshing around the sidewalls to seal all the tiny holes.

I've still had less than half the amount of times of having to stop and do anything out on the trails with a tyre in those 12 years than I had with tubes in the year before I switched (and I've found lots of thorns in tyres I've taken off). Well worth the bother for me.


 
Posted : 23/12/2016 8:36 pm
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Second aracer. Done thousands of miles on 55 mile commutes over the last few years running non-tubeless tyres on non-tubeless rims using Stan's. In that time probably had two punctures it failed to seal where I had to stick a tube in - it's not even a bother setting them up


 
Posted : 24/12/2016 1:35 am
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jekkyl - Member

12 quid? what about the inflated (see what I did there) cost of tubeless tyres times 2?

Almost all quality tyres these days will do tubeless, the main exceptions being really skinny XC ones with no sidewalls. But even if you decide to go tubeless tyres it doesn't have to cost any more, all specialized control tyres are tubeless ready, most schwalbes, there's often no price premium for maxxis (and I've never met a maxxis tyre that didn't tubeless easily anyway- good quality sidewalls and a decent amount of rubber)

If you want to use the cheapest tyres in Halfords then yeah but other'n that, these days, no.


 
Posted : 24/12/2016 1:51 am
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what I meant was the sidewalls weren't strong enough so when riding up a great big hill with my fat ass bearing down upon them they couldn't take any more and split at the bead, creating a hole too large to seal or to bodge up with a spare tube. I've never ran non tubeless specific tyres since. I figure it's not worth the risk of being left miles from home.


 
Posted : 24/12/2016 8:04 am
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Do you think that wouldn't have happened with a tube? Sounds like the expensive bit is riding your fat arse up a great big hill 😉


 
Posted : 24/12/2016 11:53 am
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I bet they were weakened over time and waiting to go. No specific stress to a tyre on a climb, you are lucky they went there.


 
Posted : 24/12/2016 12:11 pm
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ratherbeintobago - Member
Some of them have 'wept' sealant through the sidewalks too.

You shouldn't even be riding on the pavement anyway.


 
Posted : 24/12/2016 12:40 pm
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what I meant was the sidewalls weren't strong enough so when riding up a great big hill with my fat ass bearing down upon them they couldn't take any more and split at the bead, creating a hole too large to seal or to bodge up with a spare tube.

Not sure how a tube would adds strength here. Was this in the days of rim brakes?


 
Posted : 24/12/2016 1:14 pm