There is a minimum distance between pedal centre and front tyre or guard specified in the EN standards
That's interesting to know.
How is it worked out? It's got to be sizing/anthropometrics based(?)
It's a minimum distance - generally easy for a mid-sized road or gravel bike to pass and the smallest sizes are generally specced with a shorter crank so it's workable with quite a short front-centre. If you have clipless pedals fitted the distance can be less than if flats are used. I don't read it as intending to eliminate toe overlap, just minimising it.
Nothing to add to the discussion, just always wondered why we don’t just call it toeverlap?
Still trying to make fetch happen...
https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/a-question-about-29ers-and-toe-overlap/
Aidy
Still trying to make fetch happen…
Not sure which is sadder - me for still banging that semantic drum, or you for finding that ancient post!
I have a little toe overlap on my Amazon. It's never really been an issue until a full length mudguard is fitted, but then I tend not to be riding anything nadgery in that case.
A petite friend of mine had a custom steel road bike made for her by a very esteemed British frame manufacturer and the toe overlap was so bad, even without guards that the bike was almost unrideable. There was some chat about them making a different fork for it but then concerns over how that would affect steering. That bike went back.
Then when I was working at Square Wheels we had a customer order a frame and fork from the same manufacturer so we could build it up for him. He couldn't actually ride round the square in Strathpeffer as his foot kept hitting the front wheel. We had to strip the bike right down and return it.
Not sure which is sadder – me for still banging that semantic drum, or you for finding that ancient post!
Probably me 🙂
I remembered I'd heard it before with pretty much exactly the same phrasing, and that was the second hit or something on Google...
I’ve had a couple of road frames that had toe overlap and it’s mostly ok, until the rare occasion it isn’t and you have a dodgy moment so I totally get you’d like to avoid it.
I’d think if you go the more off-road rather than road end of gravel you’re more likely to avoid overlap. The slacker the headangle and longer the reach the further your feet are going to be from the front wheel.
I think my Dolan GXC avoids overlap - not caught a toe yet - and it’s a sort of middling gravel bike - it’s not anywhere near the slack end of things. <br /><br />Steel is likely to cost you more than aluminium - if you’ve got a carbon fork on there I’m not sure there’s much advantage to getting a cheap steel gravel frame (boring you said you’re on a budget).
Looking at Dolan the entry level aluminium gravel bike is £1599 vs entry level steel (Reynolds 725 tubing) is £1999.
Unless you have parts to build them it’s mostly cheaper to buy a full build right now - gravel groupsets are pretty expensive to buy seperately. You can pickup bargain wheels (some on CRC) / handlebars / stems etc though.
Planet X sometimes bang out offers on their ti gravel bikes - might be worth keeping an eye on those.
