Garmin out front mount / light underneath

Ravemen do a light that fits a Garmin mount, and has a Garmin mount on top

https://www.amazon.co.uk/RAVEMEN-FR300-Headlight-Compatible-Waterproof/dp/B0D1C9N4W5/

https://magicshineuk.com/product/evo-1700-underneath-mounted-bike-light/

The Magic shine one looks ideal TBH - been out for about a year, and the cut-off is ideal for the road.

Not quite the answer to your search at only 300lm, but i like the idea of this. Sits under the Garmin without taking bar space, and can use its battery as a power bank for other stuff.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/RAVEMEN-FR300-Headlight-Compatible-Waterproof/dp/B0D1C9N4W5/

I use a bit of a bodge...

You can attach a Quarter Turn handlebar mount to the base of the Out Front mount.

So, I use the hooks on that to attach an Exposure Tracer to the underside of the OutFront with the rubber bands that would normally attach the quarter turn mount directly to the handlebar.

The bonus is that you can now quarter turn this mount to remove it altogether.

The Exposure Tracer just about sits against the cut out of the mount that would normally rest against the handlebar. This bodge is totally secure and I've never lost the Tracer yet.

You can detach the lock-ring and the light in one go, or just unloop the band and take just the light.

It's not exactly 600 lumens though, but the principle could be applied to a similar cigar-shaped light (like a Joystick).

Any suitable brackets in this lot?

I've got this Outfront bracket with this adaptor underneath to attach my Tracer to.

You could buy a Garmin Gopro adaptor mount to fit to the bottom of your Garmin mount, then attach an Exposure Trace Gopro mount to that so it moves your Trace light from your handlebars to underneath your Garmin freeing up space on your bars to fit a light for seeing where you are going that can be easily clipped in and out when need be

This is what i did on my work bike, so my Exposure Trace is under my Garmin and my Exposure Diablo is ftted to the underside of my the bars using the standard mount, both are quick and easy to remove/fit as they just clip in and out

I have one of these AliExpress specials as recommended by someone on here. Not used it a whole lot because it lives on my road bike rather than my commuter, but seems pretty good, there's some sort of beam cutoff and I angle it down a bit to be sure. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006614516848.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.7.5711SRusSRusRg&algo_pvid=1fffe859-395c-496c-ac03-596a8483e17a&algo_exp_id=1fffe859-395c-496c-ac03-596a8483e17a-3&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21GBP%2115.79%2115.79%21%21%2120.37%2120.37%21%402103854617268362403733615e9a69%2112000037838356637%21sea%21UK%212796833130%21X&curPageLogUid=d7yTYrqnA90T&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

I have the Garmin out front extended mount that came with my 1030. On the underside it has this connector

and I have one of the gopro style connectors shown in that pic so that once you've put the screw in then you can just remove and install the light by doing a quarter turn.

Light is on the heavy side but seems to stay put at the correct angle.

Cool - cheers guys. So it’s looking like I need the below adapter to give a friction / go pro adapter on the out front mount.

Then it’s finding a light that attaches to it - ideally not meaning I have to unscrew the light everytime I go to work.

One of the exposure clip in mounts would do the job I think - maybe just with an extra rubber band round the light to make sure it doesn’t fall out the bottom if I hit a pot hole.

I do have an exposure axis I use for nightriding off road I could put in one of those but it’s a little overkill / I’d rather not hammer the battery on it with commuting.

The Sirius might do the job - but it’s quite pricey.

Will check  out the magicshine light above and a few other brands that have light to GoPro type options.

edit - the magic shine 1300 looks like it could work

The Go-Pro underslung mounts works well for me, I have a couple of lights with these, and lots of adaptors are available.

The best feature (IMO) is being able to set the angle independently of the mount. While I like the minimal size of the  Raveman FR160 and similar 1/4 mounted lights, it seems like the light's  angle is effectively fixed by the mount(?) and I wouldn't want to have to tweak my Garmin angle along with my light.

I've got that Magicshine light for commuting and bought some go pro adapters for another bike with an out front mount. i got an out front mount that bolts to the stem fixing plate with a go pro mount under. (Lifeline i think so struggle to find one now), also a lot of the Lezyne lights can be fitted with an adapter to attach a gopro mount too.

Lights ok but has cut out randomly a couple of times otherwise good spread for road, paths etc. Wouldn't buy at full price.

I do have an exposure axis I use for nightriding off road I could put in one of those but it’s a little overkill / I’d rather not hammer the battery on it with commuting.

My Exposure Diablo has been fine for commuting for the last 5 years, gets used 5 days a week, sometimes twice a day, still on the original battery, still lasts a week of commuting before needing to be charged (around 3 hours total use for the week)

Guess I could give the axis a go - or I have a moon GoPro mount so I could use my existing meteor and just stick a bit of tape over the charge port for extra protection

I have that exact setup on my winter bike. A garmin out front mount with the garmin made underneath mount. I then bought the bontrager adapter and run my nice and powerful bontrager ion light underneath.

https://www.allterraincycles.co.uk/products/bontrager-blendr-road-ion-light-mount

https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Trek/Ion-Pro-RT-Front-Light/JE2L

I run a Garmin no on top, and GoPro to exposure with my exposure diablo underneath .

I don't run it at full power, mostly on low with it flashing.

It's and older 1200 lumen one that's had plenty of use. The battery is still fine for a 10h ride.

So if suggest your axis will be fine. If you are worried about the battery why not get a exposure support cell? They aren't cheap, but if you were considering another light they are comparable

I use one of these ZRACE garmin/go pro mounts

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EvXUWSD

And then an exposure GoPro adapter to mount a strada rs or revo depending on which wheels i am using.  https://www.condorcycles.com/products/exposure-lights-3-prong-action-camera-mount-to-exposure-cleat?variant=37191108952214

Racewarw direct also have mounts for the smaller exposure lamps  https://www.racewaredirect.co/shop/exposure-gopro-mount-with-security-tabs/

Cool thanks - I’ve ordered the garmin go pro bolt in mount.

Going to try the moon first as that involves no extra outlay. Next option after that is the GoPro mount from exposure that’ll fit the axis.

Would like the Strada but that’s mega £££ for a 14km commute (each way).

Has anyone tried that Raveman thing George mentioned? I need a front light for my TT bike (club rules, even daylight) and fitting any sort of bracket to a aero TT bar is tricky. That Raveman one under the Garmin would be perfect. Are they any good?

Not used one but the lens is very flat and the lumen output isn’t that high. It feels like it’s more of a be seen sort of light than massively light your way. Looks like a neat solution as long as your out front bracket is at the right angle for the light. If you have one of those stem mount out front brackets you aren’t going to have any angle adjustment.

I've used the moon meteor and storm lights upside down, attached with the go pro mount for years. Had no issues with water getting in the charging flap.

Thanks @benman - guess we’re going with that then! Think mine is the meteor vortex pro or plus or whatever it was called about 5 years or so ago

My bikes all have K-edge combo mounts with an Exposure joystick underneath. Works a treat. The Joystick mount stays on the Go Pro base it makes charging trivial. The Garmin light is good and the mount above neat, but it is just for the one bike  I have this system on three road bikes and swap light

These are fitted to all my K-Edge mounts  will take the Diablo too

https://www.exposurelights.com/products/go-pro-fitting-light-clip

Exactly the same as TiRed.  K-Edge XL combo (you might not need the XL unless you have an Edge 800 or above) with the £8 Exposure Go-pro underslung mount.

I’d also recommend a lanyard wrapped around the bars.  I’ve never had one come loose on the MTB or Gravel, but Bristol’s pot holes managed to shake (smash) one loose!

https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/garmin-and-light-mount-morsa-or-something-else/

I went for two different options!
the Morsa has options to run a small bar that you can use any round light mount or a go pro mount.
the prime is basically a copy of the k edge design. Both work.

I probably prefer the k-edge/prime style

@ P20 did the Morsa kit come with the second mount in the box as it were?

From memory you can spec it how you want. I originally bought it with the small round mount, but actually prefer the go pro and exposure cleat combination for my Strada light. All depends on which light you run and how you cables are I guess

Thanks

For TTs I use a Cateye Orb front light. I modified it by removing most of the strap and sticking it onto the stem with a long thin strip of duct tape. It survived 100mi races fine and is aero.

For road, The K-edge is just excellent. It’s not cheap, but quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten.

Dymoece Out Front Bike Computer Combo Mount for Garmin Edge Gopro

or

Corki Bike Mount,Extended Out-front Bike Holder for Garmin Cycling Computer Edge Compatible with 31.8mm/25.4mm Handlebar

BTW one of the advantages of the Exposure system is the ability to swap lights on the fly. I often carry the Joystick in a back pocket and a Boost under the Garmin, and can swap them when the Boost is running low. Works well on longer club rides that run into the evening. That isn't an option with other lights like the Garmin. But the Garmin light is a nice piece of kit, it's just the unmounting that takes time. I don't use a lanyard. There are plenty of cheaper K-Edge copy mounts available, but I've not tried them. The K-edge mounts are all excellent. older ones (that still have the plastic interchangeable computer insert) can have the Go Pro mount added underneath. But very first generation older all-alloy mounts cannot (I still have one of those).

https://www.sigmasports.com/item/K-Edge/Combo-Mount-GoPro-Interface-For-Garmin-Mounts/6CMA

And 20% off the Combo mount now. Still a lot more than the copies,

https://www.sigmasports.com/item/K-Edge/Garmin-Max-Combo-Mount-318mm/11ICN

Found the photos of the mounts mentioned above

I have yet to test this properly but I changed my front-of-the-bars computer mount on other side of the stem so the computer is offset and this leaves room for Lupine Frontclick bar mount which mounts on both sides of the stem. There is even a small Restrap bar bag under all this.

I did it this way as it allows switching lights to other bike easily - with my lights the GoPro adapter attaches with screws and wouldn’t want to mess with that often. I don’t know yet if the offset computer is too annoying in use. 

I've got an outfront mount, with the quarter turn adapter. I'm running a Moon Rigel underneath which comes with the correct mount (go pro) to attach directly to the Garmin mount. The Rigel's come in several different versions with different lumen outputs. Have been running that for about two years and its solid, never had a problem so far (I've just jinxed myself haven't I).

raceware 3d print literally 100s of options.

TT bars - https://www.racewaredirect.co/shop/garmin-exposure-trace-tt-extension-mount/

https://www.racewaredirect.co/shop/garmin-gopro-light-mount-for-tt-extensions/

For the exposure mounts, they do ones with security tabs for smashing through your favourite pothole...

https://www.racewaredirect.co/product-category/exposure-lights/

raceware 3d print literally 100s of options.

For TT I'm a bigger fan of 76 projects. Their mounts allow Garmin to be set a different angle to the ski poles, unlike Raceware, but retain a mounting for a small light underneath (as per CTT regulations). I have their 3.0 TT mount on the trike and 2.0 on the geared TT bike. Another company that does one thing, but does it well. https://76projects.com/collections/tt-triathlon

Some options for mounting things to MTB/gravel bikes too, if that's your thing.

Couldn’t find my moon GoPro mount so picked up an exposure specific one (bought from eBay - it’s a 3d printed one) and giving the axis a go:

I need to play around with angles of the garmin mount / light but I think this will do the job. The garmin GoPro mount actually untwists from the out front mount so I can either do that or just take the elastic band thing off and take the axis with me.

The Boost is the same diameter as the Axis and Joystick and is a direct replacement. I have two and they sit under the Garmin for every ride except proper night rides (Strada and Joystick then).

I've got one of those Magicshine EVO 1700's on order to be delivered over the weekend. It's a Go-Pro mount but I can't see that being the end of the world.

I've resorted to using my old MBBatteries Lumenator on the bars but on anything other than low (2nd mode is ~800 lumens) it tends to make oncoming cars actually stop in the road.  I'm really not a fan of 'normal' LED lights being used on the road, it's definitely dangerous even if the danger isn't to the rider (assuming the car driver isn't going to steer into the bright light it can't see past).

I’ll be running the Axis on low except when I’m on the unlit parts of the cycle track. Will also have it aimed down rather than straight out. There’s the little trace on the bars as well for visibility to cars. You can see my sharpie bodge to the top of the trace - stupid design where it lights in all directions so it’s very distracting when cycling if you have it on day flash. Colouring in the top has made quite a difference so far. Will see how that goes when it’s properly dark - if it’s not enough then the black insulation tape is coming out.

I’ll be running the Axis on low except when I’m on the unlit parts of the cycle track. Will also have it aimed down rather than straight out.

It's not quite so straightforward. The trouble is that most beams the periphery (say the bit between 23 and 45deg from center on a normal 90deg wide beam) is still ~50% as bright as the spot. Whereas from a light with a cut off it's more like 5%. Try it with your car headlights, stand in front of the dipped beam (a safe distance so you don't get blinded) with the cut off somewhere around your waist. We can all see that's still plenty of upward spill to "be seen", but if you duck down and look at the lamp from below the cut off it's f****** bright.  And for context a standard H4 bulb is ~1000lumens (main or dipped, most cars only run one filament at a time)  So a 2000lumen bar light is the equivalent of driving around with your main beams on.

The advantage of that is you can actually aim 1000 lumens up the road, and on a flat road that could illuminate a very long way without being in anyone's eyes. And it does it very evenly as the 'hotspot'  is right at the cut off so if you look at the trigonometry the majority of the photons are ending up where they're spread out most on the road. The end result being that the road surface looks evenly bright at your front wheel and 50m down the road.

Whereas a 500 lumen light (i.e. most lights low settings these days), unless you're pointing it down 45deg, is still spilling a lot more light up into the air. And even setup to be the best light, you still end up with the road getting dimmer past the hotspot.

The downside comes when cornering sharply.  The cut off leans with you so you trying to look around the corner are effectively looking "up" into the area with almost no illumination. Some motorbikes fix this with gimbals, motors, mirrors and other wizardry, But most motorcyclists know that cornering in the dark is either terrifying or requires the main beams !

@thisisnotaspoon  interesting. So to avoid winding up drivers on the other side of the road the solution could be .. ..

1. put a bit of electrical tape (?) across the top (say)  30% of the front light (mine is an older Exposure MaxxD normally used for mtbing in the forest at night, not roads). Though my light does get pretty warm!
2. tip the light to establish the cut off at a suitable level. Hopefully the light tips enough on the Alpkit 'Garmin and Light Outfront Mount'
3. Run at approx 1,000 lumen maximum

I am getting an Alpkit 'Garmin and Light Outfront Mount' and a '3 Prong Action Camera mount to Exposure Cleat' for road/gravel use. I will be testing the set up next week when I pick up the bike from ByC and I have a 65 mile ride home. Inevitably a fair bit of that ride will be in the dark.

put a bit of electrical tape (?) across the top (say)  30% of the front light (mine is an older Exposure MaxxD normally used for mtbing in the forest at night, not roads). Though my light does get pretty warm!

Nope, doesn't work like that I'm afraid, if you look at car headlights , it's often actually the opposite, the reflector has a focal popint somewhere out in front of the light so it's the bottom half of the light that pointing upwards and vice versa.  But unless you get your cover somewhere past the focal point then it will just blur out of focus rather than get projected with the beam.

Most STVZO lights have the LED mounted facing down to the ground, then a shaped reflector that projects it forward.

tip the light to establish the cut off at a suitable level. Hopefully the light tips enough on the Alpkit ‘Garmin and Light Outfront Mount’

It's never that straightforward in practice.

If you point the torch down far enough to get he actual cut-off horizontal, that would need to be almost 45deg down. Which means you get a very brightly lit front wheel, and relative darkness beyond it. The beam is also getting narrower (as it's the top of a circle) into the distance, so you lose any illumination to the sides as well.

Run at approx 1,000 lumen maximum

The irony is that because the reflectors in STVZO lights put the light where you actually want it (except when cornering) they're actually much brighter in the real world.  In terms of light output 100lux (measures intensity at the brightest point) in an average beam pattern is ~300 lumens (which is just the overall output), but is comfortably as bright as a 1000lumen light on the road.

The Magicshine 1700 Evo turned up yesterday (not had time to get beam shots yet) but f*** me, it's like a bloody letter box shaped laser beam.

This diagram kinda gives an idea what's going on.

The top image is an STVZO type light, the brightest bit of the beam is near the top, which (the side on diagram doesn't really convey this) is the bit spread out over the most area of road, so when you observe it on the bike the road actually  all looks the same brightness from your front wheel to infinity (or as far as the light will reach anyway).

The middle is what happens if you try to dip a normal light.  Anything above the center of the beam is relatively dark to you, but to oncoming vehicles it's still incredibly bright and glaring.

The bottom is an undipped normal light.

In the real world that ends up something like this:

Normal light, the road is visibly darker pas the hot-spot:

Whereas this is an STVZO beam, slight color fringing from the lens aside, the illuminated area is pretty much equally bright all the way up to the cut off, then nothing above it:

@thisisnotaspoon thanks for the response.

Not sure what the next step is then?

Might have to mess about in the garage and see what I can conjure up. I'll see if I can find an old car headlamp deflector (from driving on the continent) somewhere.

Though I note the Magicshine Evo 1700 is not a STVZO type light.

Hmmm

Though I note the Magicshine Evo 1700 is not a STVZO type light.

Hmmm

STVZO is very prescriptive, it's not just the beam pattern, you can't have, even on a switch, a high beam or flashing mode either.  Both of which the magicshine has.

Same with rear lights, the STVZO standard says the light must have a constant red light and a built in reflector, nothing else.

Club run is tomorrow night so I'll put up some comparison shots against  my Lumenator which is IIRC 1800 lumens so on paper would be a good comparison.  But suffice to say I'm pretty impressed with it.  The dipped beam is very well shaped, and quite a bit wider than some stvzo lights I've tried. It's very good.  The "main" beam I'm reserving judgment on, it seems like it almost mirrors the dipped beam upwards, so you've still got a noticeably flat beam, we'll see how that works out on some fast descents with corners. The remote switch / app / button is a bit confusing at first, it sounds complicated but in the real world 'square' takes you straight to full power main beam, and circle takes you to the previous setting, so for probably 99% of people that will be dipped on mid or high power I guess.  If you double click circle it switches from dipped to main, and a single click cycles through low/mid/high in whichever beam you're in.

Like most lights it's fault is offering too many modes. Just give me the ones I'll actually use on the light, and maybe hide the rest in the app.  99% of the time I probably just want full main beams and a full dipped beam.  The only time I'd want anything else is would be an overnight audax type ride and then I'd have to choose between either a low/medium beam or running on external power.  And on that note, it can run on external power (as long as it's dry) form any USB-C cable and a power bank.

Will check  out the magicshine light above and a few other brands that have light to GoPro type options.

Dunno if I missed it on the magicshine literature, but the 1700 EVO has a go-pro adapter, but the light itself slides on and off a mount.  You press that textured bit under the clamp to release it and the lamp body slides back off it.

I've got the Magicshine 1700 light on a cheap Amazon metal out front stem mount. The original supplied bar mount is plastic and felt like it might break. I've had it a year now and its been a neat solution without cluttering up my bars. The light has been very effective on the road and down bridleways. Not sure on its claimed lumens, but it's plenty enough for what I've used it for in the pitch black.

I don't use the quick release button to release the light from the clamp, but instead use a GoPro thumb bolt instead. The app is abit flaky at times connecting but the remote is great.

I also like the fact I can run a battery externally to keep it going (albeit in dry conditions (unless there is a way you can knock something up to protect the charge lead from water ingress).

@thisisnotaspoon and @rumbledethumps

Interesting comments on your Magicshine 1700 EVO. Mine just arrived from the Magicshine UK store based in Bodmin and I have 3 issues:

1) the GoPro connector between the Out Front mount and the light itself was a swine to get together and took a chunk out of my finger in the process. The connection is so stuff there is no way the light can ever be tilted (doubt I'll get it apart again) and the tightening fixing bolt is pointless. The nut bit does not fit well even with the holes lined up correctly.

2) I was unable to download the Magicshine App from the Google Play Store as I get the following message

The phone is an 18month old mid-range Samsung with up to date software.

3) I was surprised to note in the very basic paper instructions (yep, I should have checked before buying) that you only get 5hrs in daylight flash mode. Which is pretty poor/pointless.

I have asked the UK Magicshine store for a return, though it is annoying as I can see myself paying for 2 lots of postage, to me and the return as well.

Thoughts please ..

The message on your screenshot says your device is too new rather than the other way around.

Doesn't help though I know.

OK, though I interpreted it as 'an older version of Android' meaning the Android (14)  operating system on my phone was too new for the Magicshine App to work with.

Whichever Magicshine UK have said I'm not the first with this problem.

nick- your problem with the go pro mount may be down to the prongs of the out front mount being a little too tight rather than those of the adapter. I only say this as I have two evo 1700s and have switched them between a few different bikes/mounts. Neither of mine were so tight I struggled to fit the adapter but did have the opposite issue with one of my mounts (an aluminium out front mount) in that it needs the gopro screw to be done up super tight (ie. screwdriver required) so that the bracket can't easily rotate. I ride on the road at night a lot so always use the quick release feature to remove the light from the bike for charging and want the bracket secured  tightly enough that it won't rotate when re-fitting the light.

Secondly. the Magicshine app is absolutely terrible. I completely ignore it now. Set the lights manually to my preferred brightness and then just use the remote to switch between dip and main. It's quite unlikely I'd ever need to change brightness on a ride. I run mine on full but as I'm on roads it's generally dipped for all but faster descents. Haven't ever run out of juice and I regularly use one for 3hr solo night road rides. When angled optimally the dipped beam with it's very defined cut off  line really is great for road use. I'd try the light to see how you get on with it riding before giving up and sending it back.

Great little lights . Shame the App is so poor.  If it's any consolation the App for their rear SeemeeDV rear cam/light is even worse. Instructions are quite poor too.

Whoever mentioned charging in use. have you thought about making a thru cover for the usb port from Sugru? I've done this successfully in the past with other lights.

Cheers @Gaah , useful info.