[Closed] Full suspension over hardtail? Should I cut my losses?

The Fuse looks like a pretty capable bike for the type of riding you describe. Have you tried dropping tyre pressures etc?

Have you tried dropping tyre pressures etc?

Tyre pressure is currently 30psi so half way between the guide for the tyres (20-40psi) but I could try going lower? I worried any lower would cause higher rolling resistance.

Tyre pressure is currently 30psi so half way between the guide for the tyres (20-40psi) but I could try going lower? I worried any lower would cause higher rolling resistance.

interesting that they give a range (many just give a maximum) but that 40psi is merely the point where you will (possibly) damage the tyre or rim.

I'm 85kg, on my hardtail for woodland/roots/dirt/mud type trails I'm unsually about 20-25 psi.

I'd try lowering the tyre pressures and do a bit of experimenting. It all depends on your weight too. 30 psi for me at 16 stone would be a little bit too high on my tyres on the rear, would also be way too hard on the front.

If they're bigger volume tyres, they won't need as much pressure either.

Also, Is your fork setup correct? Coming from a DJ background, I'm wondering if it's setup a little too harshly?

The bike is absolutely fantastic but I can’t help wonder if I’d have been better getting a full suspension?

What makes you feel this?

All bike have their plus man minus. Also what's you're local? Local in West Sussex will be different to local in Shropshire.

30 psi is fairly high pressure for a wide MTB tyre. It'll depend on your weight and the specific tyres, but I generally run 30 PSI in the rear and 22 in the front for 2.3 tyres. I'm about 80 kg. With bigger tyres, you will probably find lower pressures are an improvement.

I worried any lower would cause higher rolling resistance.

The key element really for rolling resistance is tyre compound.

Before you do go too low, are you running tubeless - if not, go tubeless and then you can drop to 20psi.

higher pressure doesn't equal low rolling resistance, if the tyre can conform over the bumps, and keep the bike, and you, moving in a straight line, rather than bouncing around, jarring you sideways and upwards, then it's being more efficient (to a point) If your back wheel is skipping out on roots and loose ground as you pedal uphill, that's not great either, and more likely to happen the greater the pressure in the tyres.

General rule if you're riding trails is to go as low as you can for best grip and control, but if you start bottoming out the rim on roots/rocks, or if you start feeling the tyre roll/squirm in hard corners, go a little bit (2/3psi higher until those things happen acceptably rarely.

If you're pedalling a long way on smooth trails, you might want to go a bit higher, as best grip in corners is probably less of an issue.

Tyre pressure is currently 30psi so half way between the guide for the tyres (20-40psi) but I could try going lower? I worried any lower would cause higher rolling resistance.

As above, for someone of average weight, riding average rooty trails in average British woods, I'd try 22-25psi front, 25-27 rear, rolling resistance might go up slightly, but grip and control go up more. You need that rear tyre to deform enough to dig in whilst the bike is bouncing around in a rough corner. If it's too hard you just ping off things instead and get zero grip.

It's different riding to a FS. I won't say it's more skillful or makes you a better rider because it's different skills. Riding a HT badly/averagely/passively takes no more skill than it does on a FS, it's just less comfortable. Riding either fast (or fast for a HT, once you start putting effort in the FS is going to be faster) takes a different approach though. FS bikes you can take rougher lines and still have grip e.g. going outside/inside/outside around a corner to maintain speed, whereas on a HT you're looking for the smoothest line which is most likely following a rut around the outside of the whole corner and using it as a mini berm to pump for speed.

The only place I've found a HT to be less fun in absolute terms was the Peak District. Everythings still rideable, but when you're faced with a field of small boulders almost a mile long (Potato Alley, or the Causeway before they sanitized it) and the FS bikes just roll over it whilst you bounce down it at half the speed it's just demoralizing!

there is absolutely no reason to consider a full sus for the type of riding youare considering.
about all you wil lgain from it is maybe a slightly comier ride when seated
negatives are, youll be much more out of pocket, youll have morem intanence, and you might even hinder your climbing ability slightly. Chances are, you will also reduce the fun the element as youve now taking a sledgehammer to a pillowfight.

people are differnt, ive got a chocie between a hardtail and a decent heavy trail/enduro bike.. and i ride my hardtail more.. i might even be quicker on it, the exception being if im going somewhere new and i want a get out of jail free card to save me. Im actually looking forward to riding the full sus soon, because ive forgotton what its like more than anything else, and to see if i have picked up some new talent

play with your hardtail, get it right for you. 30 psi is pretty much too high for an MTB. even my gravel bike on 44mm tyres doesnt often go beyond 35psi

The only place I’ve found a HT to be less fun in absolute terms was the Peak District.

I'm in Ashbourne so on the edge of the peak district.

Thanks all for the input. I'll drop down to 25 front/27 rear and go from there I think.

As for suspension I did have too little sag but I've since adjusted to around 25-30%.

30psi so half way between the guide for the tyres (20-40psi)

The max/min pressure printed on tyres is from safety testing, with a sizeable margin either side of that range also fine. It's not to do with recommending a ideal pressure on performance grounds. Go lower. My hardtail is currently 16psi in the rear without issue. This is obviously dependent on rim/tyre width, rider weight, riding style, and terrain.

Apart from weight/speed, i don't really see what a HT brings to riding over a FS bike. I don't get the harder/techie stuff being more challenging is more fun, along with the over-biked thing people say. When i ride trails i don't want to be up down, in out on the saddle and riding position over every rut and root.

People have differing opinions...

The over biked thing is relevant, on easier trails a big bike does take the excitement away, otherwise you may as well be on a gravel road, but that's just opinion...

OP, as pretty much comes across above, riding a HT is a choice that some folk enjoy and some don't.

You don't say that buying a FS bike would be too expensive, so if it's something you think you'd enjoy more then probably go for it. You can make your HT a bit more comfortable probably, but it won't be the same as FS by a long shot.

I love my HT, but I wouldn't make a case for it being the fastest, most efficient or comfortable bike I could be riding. You get to choose what you want from your bike, which is great 🙂

@weeksy

in all seriousness? don't people do that on every bike anyway? i'm out of the seat the same on FS or HT the same

All hypotheticals, could you just borrow a full suss from a mate, take it on a 'typical' ride and see which is more fun? (I suspect the HT for the reasons above but you wont know for sure until you try it)

in all seriousness? don’t people do that on every bike anyway? i’m out of the seat the same on FS or HT the same

Not nearly as much/often on a FS as on a HT no, you can roll over 90% of stuff on the FS that will rattle you about on the HT.

I rode a hardtail for years. I got a full suss bike about 18 months ago and I'm enjoying riding it. If I'd have bought an equally modern hardtail I'd have enjoyed that too.

Walleater (of this forum) rides a hardtail. He builds and rides some of the most challenging trails in Squamish. When he first went over to Canada to be a trail guide he took his old 26" Dialled Bikes Prince Albert hardtail and did everything (better than) his clients on their long travel bikes did.

I've never measured tyre pressure on a mountain bike. I use my thumb and gauge whether I'm going to get rim strikes or get the tyre flip-flopping and burping and pump it up a bit more.

The fuse runs 2.8 tyres doesn't it? I run 14-16 psi on my Stooge and weigh 95kgs so I'd suggest your waaaaaay over-pressured on the tyres, they'd be rock hard.

Not nearly as much/often on a FS as on a HT no, you can roll over 90% of stuff on the FS that will rattle you about on the HT.

I'd argue that if you rode an FS like a HT then it would be a lot quicker.

Take Stickler at Swinley (just because we both know it), ~2 miles of cobblestone purgatory. You can ride it passively on a FS, just pedaling between the corners to keep speed up. And you can do that on a HT, it's just less comfortable. But to ride it quickly on a HT you need to be stood up and pumping every corner and soaking up the chatter. An FS will compensate for sitting down to an extent, but if you ride it like you're on a HT, but on a FS then it absolutely will be faster.

Not nearly as much/often on a FS as on a HT no, you can roll over 90% of stuff on the FS that will rattle you about on the HT

I'm with alan1977 and TINAS on this.

Of course, its possible to layzee-boy your way over much, but that would be shit and boring!

I’ve had a HT since 2014 when my Lappierre got nicked and I couldn’t afford to replace with another full susser. I’m not a particularly skilled mtber, but I’ve taken it down several medium level DH tracks in the south UK - a good HT won’t hold you back. If you’re used to jumping I’d have thought you could definitely make the most of it if it was the right HT for you (I did a little reading on the fuse but can’t comment too much).

For anything footpath level of difficulty I’d say can be done on an HT and there’s fewer things to worry about in cost and upkeep. FS can make your local trails a bit easy sometimes.

That said, I have a new rig on order to help with those rocks and roots at the Forest of Dean.

Borrow/rent one for the day and see if you like it 🙂

I went from two bikes down to one due to lack of use a few years back. The choice was my 29" full suss or 25.5" hard tail. It was not an easy decision but in the end I kept the full suss as it was the better bike (for me) 90% of the time. The hard tail was great fun though.

Have not regretted it since.

If you think you might want a full suss then get one. You'll soon find out if you like it and changing bikes is fun!

I’m in Ashbourne so on the edge of the peak district.

50/50 then. The local stuff around there I'd suggest a HT is mostly the right tool for the job. But then it depends specifically which bits you like to ride. I'm sure there's more gnarr than the bits I've ridden round there.

If you're regularly riding around Edale then I'd say a FS starts to be less of a nice to have and more a necessity (unless like me you really like HT's).

I'm 97kg and ran 23psi front on a 2.5 and 25psi rear on a 2.3 with Maxxis tyres with EXO sidewalls on my hardtail.

You'll be surprised how low you can go, just watch out for clanging your rear rim and make sure you're set up tubeless.

I'm back to riding a hardtail while my FS EpicEvo is in for a warranty claim. And I have to say I'm coming back from rides feeling much more beaten up (shoulders and knees and ankles) from the greater impact (even having adjusted tyre pressures), and it's taking a day to recover (old git alert). Yes it is quite fun navigating descents a bit more carefully on the HT, but for me the comfort and extra speed of the FS make a long morning loop a whole lot more fun, and no extended recovery

To be fair... In the current market i dont think you're going to lose any money if you were to sell it anyhow, providing its still in a nice condition. Your other issue would be getting a sensibly priced 2nd hand full susser, or an in stock new one

Mtb&b in Macc will do guided test rides of Scott full sus and alpkit in Hathersage do test rides for £50 for weekend collected or delivered. Might be worth £50 to try both bikes back to back.

As above, it's personal choice and ultimately comes down to what you want to get from your riding.

Its not about bike capability as a hardtail can handle anything, but do you want a magic carpet ride or being challenged by the trail.

I've currently got two hardtails: a 29er with 130mm travel (66 degree ha) and 27.5 mmmbop with 160mm travel ( 63.5 degree ha). Between them I can ride anything from dh trails in Wharncliffe, welsh/lakes rock, to long all day xc rides.

Therefore it's not just a hardtail vs FS question.

I love both my Hardtail and f/s, but the Hardtail is more fun and just as fast until you get to the point it blows your feet of the peddles.

This is on a 140mm travel hardtail at my local bike park, I was expecting to be much slower than on the Geometron but there really isn’t much in it.

Standards really are slipping 'round here. Clearly the answer is that you need both!

In all seriousness though, the specification you get for your budget should probably be a factor. For the standard of frame and components you're getting on your Fuse, you'll have to put quite a bit more money in the pot to match that spec and ride quality on a FS bike. I know I'd rather ride a sorted hardtail than a gate of a FS bike.

Quick feedback, I went all in and dropped the tyre pressure to 20psi front 23psi rear (In for a penny in for a pound). It's like a completely different bike, better grip, better traction and better over roots.

Having done that I don't really think I'd gain much from a full suspension. Maybe a few more likes 'on the gram' but who rides for that? 😂

Tubeless is definitely on the card in future.

Over biked is a real thing. Once took an enduro bike round Swinley. It were rubbish.

Glad to hear OP is finding tyre pressure change has helped.

that's good to hear
i've got a couple of friends who really don't buy into the low tyre pressure thing, and subsequently haven't benefitted
i'm still tinkering with the 2.6's on my sonder transmitter.. 17+19 seemed to work ok for me last night at 78kg naked..stony chalky (lumps) loamy brake rutted trails..
obviously, when you start getting into this sort of territory, a good reliable pressure gauge is useful

@ajt123
i actually wished for a full sus at swinley because i spent so much time pedalling and bouncing off stones i wanted to be able to sit down 😀

Absolutely, those high wear machine built trails can shake a filling loose!

Short travel full suss is where its at for Swinners.

Tubeless is definitely worth doing, better ride, the ability to safely run low pressure, less weight, far better puncture performance (ie: virtually none)
Unless you’re a regular tyre swapper, you definitely want it.

I've got two mates that rip up techy singletrack on single speed Fuse. It's definitely capable for what it sounds like you're using it for.

I’m back to riding a hardtail while my FS EpicEvo is in for a warranty claim. And I have to say I’m coming back from rides feeling much more beaten up (shoulders and knees and ankles) from the greater impact (even having adjusted tyre pressures), and it’s taking a day to recover (old git alert). Yes it is quite fun navigating descents a bit more carefully on the HT, but for me the comfort and extra speed of the FS make a long morning loop a whole lot more fun, and no extended recovery

I'm old and unfit and I find more than 2 days in a row riding bike park by body starts to feel it but to be fair that's only since I was over 50.

jimmy748
Are you clipped in on Devil's ? Those rock gardens at the top fire me like a ping pong ball on the HT and don't get it spot on but its nice to have feet free on chalky corner in the wet...

I can't imagine being ever old enough to choose to ride Swinley on a FS though..

@stevextc No flat pedals, I find it better to try and jump though the rock garden than plough through it though.

Welcome to 1999's full sus over hardtail discussion!

For the OP to decide who's opinion is right or wrong (joking! I mean who he agrees with) surely obvious thing is to get a full sus demo or loaner to take on a ride. Overbiked isn't a thing - wrong or shit-biked is. But hey, that's just an opinion.
I just bought a new hardtail and took it round my local (the very rooty QECP) and it was only really the final, extremely rooty and bumpy descent that made me miss my full sus, it was impossible to get the same speed down it. But I knew this anyway, cos I've been riding hardtails, full sussers (almost 6 inches of never overbiked Yeti 575s) and rigid bikes for that matter, on the same trails since forever.
So yeah, demo or loaner. (But if it's really all about FUN! you know the ONLY answer is EBIKE! LOLZ!)

just for some reference, I checked the psi in the rear of my dh bike (2.5" tyres) after a day at rogate where it felt a little soft - 9.8. 20 is plenty!

Overbiked isn’t a thing – wrong or shit-biked is. But hey, that’s just an opinion.

Agreed, in principle. However, longer travel bikes tend to have grippier, heavier tyres and stronger, heavier wheels, etc. So you sacrifice rolling resistance for grip, which is fine on steeper, more techy trails, but harder work on more flowing, more xc-style rides. Obviously, this depends on how fit you are and what level of compromise you're happy with.

And as an example..

a new hardtail and took it round my local (the very rooty QECP) and it was only really the final, extremely rooty and bumpy descent that made me miss my full sus,

I've only ridden there once, a couple of years ago, and don't remember this, so it can't have been an issue for me. I was on a 2.8" plus HT, rather than my FS. I enjoyed QECP - it came as a pleasant surprise because I was expecting something more similar to Swinley or Sherwood Pines.

Swinley is a strange one. If you bimble round slowly it's boring, but fine on almost any bike. Once saw a guy riding a rather old 3 speed folding bike with racks. Crank it up to a decent pace and the constant up, down and changes in direction start to highlight performance issues you don't think about elsewhere. In that situation it can be quite hard work on a hardtail. Best off with a light, fast xc suspension bike there imo.

Of course none of this is relevant, it's usually impossible to ride Swinley fast because you're constantly being held up 🙄

Best off with a light, fast xc suspension bike there imo.

I'm surprised Bird didn't go down this route. Something like a Giant Anthem, but with the geometry they've put on the Aeris/AM9/Aether.

Best off with a light, fast xc suspension bike there imo

Agree. Swinley of old was great fun on a hardtail, but the purpose built bone shaking ginge would be awful at speed. Perfectly rideable but I wouldn't think it would be that enjoyable. My 10 year old 120mm Yeti ASR-5 still feels like the best option to me (partly because I can no longer afford to buy something shiny and new!)

it’s usually impossible to ride Swinley fast because you’re constantly being held up

Disagree. Rarely get held up there unless it's a weekend. I usually ride Monday evenings with friends, in from Crowthorne, purple, then home again. This week we saw two other riders!

No flat pedals, I find it better to try and jump though the rock garden than plough through it though.

respect ... I sometimes feel I don't send something that would be way easier and safer sent. I have no issue sending it on the FS but on the HT I guess I hold back which is obviously stupid but ??

Swinley of old was great fun on a hardtail, but the purpose built bone shaking ginge would be awful at speed. Perfectly rideable but I wouldn’t think it would be that enjoyable.

I don't think the bike has anything to do with it.... Swinley is just designed to be a fun-free place. I just go because I'm too lazy to cycle to Peaslake.. It's increasingly hard to tell the difference between the canal towpath and Swinley.

DezB

For the OP to decide who’s opinion is right or wrong (joking! I mean who he agrees with) surely obvious thing is to get a full sus demo or loaner to take on a ride.

I see what you're saying but not sure it works like that.
At least for me I feel there was a honeymoon period before I felt "where did the fun go?"

It’s increasingly hard to tell the difference between the canal towpath and Swinley.

There’s more elevation on a canal path.

I see what you’re saying but not sure it works like that.

I know one thing - it'd be a lot more useful than asking other people!

DezB

I know one thing – it’d be a lot more useful than asking other people!

A bit of both ???
I'd say at least try and be objective during (the honeymoon period of) a trial.

Getting a load of different opinions to test might help that trial be more objective.

Yeah yeah. My own experience is that riding something tells me a lot , asking on here gets such a variety of differing opinions (and people arguing about sod all), it just becomes confusing noise... so riding something is (as I said) a lot more useful.
Thats all. But if you have to be right, then you are.

But if you have to be right, then you are.

I *think* what I'm saying is I've been wrong, specifically over the FS/HT.

I'm completely with you about trialling but I think getting all the things to think about in that trial is specifically relevant to the FS/HT.

The positives of the FS come across very quickly from experience but the negatives took me longer.
At my (our) age and my fitness I'm glad I don't have to choose ... because for me the biggest downside of the HT is after a few days consecutive riding I definitely feel it. There is also the extra cost of maintenance... which may or may not be important for the OP.

The compromises are almost exactly not what I expected.
I'm not fussed if the HT climbs a firetrail 15 secs faster ... which it might in some places but I don't care.
(I don't think the OP does but perhaps they do)
Getting shaken off pedals unclipped is real... there are definately places I can pedal faster on the FS and I guess that is something personal to everyone. It bothered me more than I thought it would for a while .

I'd also say another place where I was wrong .. like Jimmy748 I expected a big difference on DH ... and there is very little in it. You'd need a stop watch type difference. I totally didn't expect that. Mostly it's the size of my cohones not the bike.

If anything Jimmy's vid on Devils Dyke illustrates this ... I lack the cohones to full send the rock gardens .. and the drop/step down at the end was scarier on the HT. (Quite honestly wouldn't want to case that on the HT but that just means don't touch the brakes)...

So erm.. I was wrong on almost everything from what I expected when I went back to the HT and I was also "wrong" about the feel of a FS in many ways when I went that way.
For a short time I was totally smitten with the move to FS ... the ability to smash through stuff seemed ace for a few weeks but then became boring. I remember the exact moment (a few years ago now) the disappointment set in on a tiny 2-3' drop that had always been fun but I couldn't actually feel the back wheel leaving the ground... I knew it had but it felt like rolling off a kerb..

I still use the FS .. I'd not even think about the triples at Dyfi on the HT and Devils (at Okeford) feels safer (but I know its in my head) and a few of the braking bumps at Revs are just nasty of a HT.. but those are probably at the more extreme end (plus i'm well into my 50's and of mediocre skill at best) ..

I used the FS for an afternoon the other week at Rogate because it was the 2nd session in 3 days and my thighs took a beating (due to my crap riding ability) .. then to let Ollie do use the HT. (but in truth I was glad on the break to my thighs having cased triple R to death)

There’s more elevation on a canal path.

Possibly actually true with the locks... It's still nice to ride round the official loop just from a being in the Forest POV but it's hard to class that as "fun".

I'm lucky enough to have a Fuse (as a 29er, built from parts and a second hand frame to replace a Stache) as well as a Kona Process 111 - which is pretty ideal for where I am in the Surrey Hills. I've always had hardtails and go through long stretches where I ride one bike or the other exclusively - then switch back and realised what I missed.

The Fuse is a cracking bike; tinker with tyre pressure and enjoy what you have, then if you've budget and room for an FS as well, consider having one of each. You'll have a lot of fun with a hardtail, and it's not a race last time I checked. At the moment it may also be tougher finding an FS bike you can actually buy, too.

I used to be of the opinion that it was good to learn skills on a hardtail before buying a FS bike, but raising two kids who have also got into riding has changed my perspective on this.

Quite a long way of saying to OP: N+1

I used to be of the opinion that it was good to learn skills on a hardtail before buying a FS bike, but raising two kids who have also got into riding has changed my perspective on this.

Interested to understand what changed your perspective. I have two sons, 10 and 11, both of whom are starting to take more interest in riding off road (as in, they ask to go rather than me asking them) and I'm about to move them from 24" rigid bikes to 27.5 hardtails. I don't think they will need full suss for a few years yet but interested in others' experience.

Really depends what they ride ... ideally one of each but a bit late now.

I waited too long to get the lad on a HT at 10 by which time he had the wrong technique and was completely shit. (Like proper shit)
Because he was embarrassed to be so shit he wouldn't ride it to get better if anyone was watching which didn't help.

Took me ages (best part of a year) to get him enthusiastic about and do anything half decent on the HT.

In retrospect I wish I'd kept a HT for him before he lost it ..

I don’t think they will need full suss for a few years yet but interested in others’ experience.

At just over that age mine showed continued interest, aptitude and we ride in a place most consider pretty gnarly. They were all in a bike club and had weekly coaching, one racing DH a bit.

Therefore they got FS at age 12-13 (paper round money contributed to the cost).

For me it was a good move - any younger I felt that the FS weight and size outweighed some of the advantages.

Since then FS makes sense where we are for them - they like to ride steep, rocks and jump. Ones very fast. One less fast. Ones now taken to the road and tracks on a CX/gravel bike.

Someone very kindly let me have a very light 26" wheel Kona FS frame in 16" for peanuts a few years ago, and another couple of friends had two pairs of Fox Floats in their loft that they very kindly gave us, so I'd say starting with nice kit probably helps.
Or oldest is 10, youngest 8. Both were on Orbea MX24s - rigid with v brakes. I dropped the travel on one of the Fox forks to ~65mm (basically used the air shaft push pins to get to 80mm then added an RS travel clip thing) to get them to the right general a-c. The 26" forks and 24" wheels meant I needed disc wheels - I looked for the lightest 24" rims I could find (drilled out trials rims in the end) and cheap Shimano hubs as they'd still work out lighter that the stock wheels and budget was an issue as he was paying for half from Christmas and birthday present money.
Aged 8, the oldest did 30km plus XC rides on this setup and trips to flyup417, but was outgrowing the frame by age 10. I swapped the 24" wheels and running gear onto the Kona frame and the other pair of Foxes running at full travel (125 front, 120 rear) and let him get on with it. He was quickly riding far smoother, pumping terrain more and generally working the bike better because (my theory, anyway) he can load the back at well as the front. He also has more time to pick lines in lumpy stuff when he'd be merely holding on with the old bike, so he's taking more creative line choices. The only downer is there wasn't enough space between the saddle rails and frame to fit a cheap t-mars knockoff - but he's on the cusp now. The 8 year old is also getting tall enough on his Mx to fit a dropper, so I can see a rather expensive double purchase on the horizon. He moved to a very nice bargain pair of 26" wheels for the oldest recently, too.
If you can find a cheap second hand FS frame that's reasonably light and swap 24" wheels onto it for a keen kid, they will get quicker faster.
It also helps that I tend to bargain-hunt for bike stuff as a matter of course, so it's not been as expensive a process as it could be and ask the kit gets used by both boys. Most recent bargain was a pair of brand new magura disc brakes at £60 - the other pair in use are some old Deores is still be running if I hadn't got a similar bargain for my Process on a pair of four pots. Keep things like old handlebars back - I've got the pairs in varying lengths that they move to add they get bigger.
Worth noting the 8 year old isn't quite so keen on mountain biking, and I don't have lovely cheap FS frames on tap, so there may be something of an empasse there when it comes tob extra height and fairness. At the moment he's got the short Foxes and disc 24s on and is enjoying things more now he can ride with a school friend and his dad rather than 'just' his own family.

Wouldn't sell your hardtail until you've tried a full suss of the type you want, or better still, have both! Beg Borrow or Rent one.

I've been riding rigid for the last 18 months, I love not having all the distractions that go with it...to much sag, its bobbing a bit, my rebounds too fast, sloppy pivots/bushings, leaving propedal in the wrong position. Now all I need to consider my tyre pressure which I've found is crucial (I run the front tyre pretty soft and bought a posh One-Up handlebar with lots of vertical damping)

I'm a few seconds slower than my fastest buddies on long runs of woodsy singletrack, but I was a lot slower on my old full susser! That may say more about 26v29er though...

Wouldn’t sell your hardtail until you’ve tried a full suss of the type you want, or better still, have both! Beg Borrow or Rent one.

If only someone had suggested that earlier... 😆 🤪

DezB

If only someone had suggested that earlier…

I'm in complete agreement. My point is to be aware of the honeymoon period.
Personally after a long journey I'm firmly in N+1 if practical and possible.

More simplistically and perhaps using the absurd as an example I'd love to hire a proper motorhome ... however I reckon it wouldn't be a great daily driver for me even though 2 weeks of luxury touring would be fantastic. The HT/FS is a bit more subtle (at least for me) than getting to the supermarket car park and not getting under the barrier though.

It's more (at least in my head) like how many of my mates have bought a DH bike ... used it a few times and realised it was cool for a while before selling it at a loss.

Perhaps the most important thing to consider in all of this (which nobody seems to have mentioned) is timing.

We're in the midst of an apparent retail bike drought (caused by CV19) and subsequent price inflations in the new and used bike markets. It's spring, you've got a bike that works and which you like riding OP. I suggest you just crack on and ride it for the next 6 months before revisiting this personal debate...

Starting to swap bikes/frames about now potentially risks missing out on riding through the most fun bit of the year by not having a usable bike.

When the weather turns in October is the 'best' time to re-evaluate the bike you have and the pros/cons of it for your preferred riding and available budget...

IMO of course...