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Just bought a goodridge set and planning on running full length housing on my rockhopper. It's designed to have the breaks in the cable, and there is no slots for full length cables. I'm not too bothered as I can happily cable tie it, and thought I might even go on the downtube or something different, because I can basically.
However the guide it came with is a little confusing, and I don't really know if going full length is a good idea. It came with some blue plastic stuff that you are supposed to run over exposed sections, which, apart from looking sick, would work well, I feel. However with the crap weather here, proper full length would be best, I feel.
But then I read about oiling it. I've never oiled my cables once and not had a problem, but then I've never run full length myself, and the zesty I have had them as standard and they just work.
Aside from all of this, the goodridge kit ( http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=22234) is really nice and the outer feels like wire, it's very hard, which I think is a good thing.
So basically, what's the best way of running full length cables, and how do I maintain them? Ideally I want to do it today for a ride tomorrow 😀
read the instructions per chance?
Read my post per chance? I said the guide was confusing....
Fit full length, as you've described, and forget for a few months. If shifting starts to get 'sticky', squirt some GT85 or TF2 down the inside of the outers until it comes out clean at the other end. The blue bits might look nice but you'll be defeating the object of the exercise by introducing a potential in for moisture.
I'd add some protection where the outers contact the frame to avoid abrasion.
I've not used the goodridge specifically but isn't it a fully sleeved system? The blue stuff runs the whole length doesn't it with the housing going between the stops. Therefore, the bits that move (the cable and blue tube) are full length.
I could be wrong but I thought that's how it was supposed to work.
it's not long enough to do that, think the idea is you fit them where the cable used to be exposed.
I will do what you said diawl, just run it the whole length. If it gets sticky I can always get a new inner (in fact I got two), and change it regularly... they're only a quid after all.
My boardman had fittings to take shifting cables via the downtube and chainstay via the underside of the BB shell but I found that it was quite badly affected by the trail filth I usually ride in. So I scrapped the front derailler/shifter, then fitted a fully enclosed cable run for the rear, ziptying it to the rear brake cable that runs along the bottom of the top tube, and then to the top and bottom of the seatstay - the drop out has some convenient cutouts which help. The effect has been near miraculous - no shifting issues since, and I don't clean my bike much.
Fitting oilers would be the ultimate
buy an orange 5 -
what onza says I assume as i have something similar
The cable ends have a point on some and the inner bit slides on to that between frame cable stops.
The outer is not the complete length but the cable is always covered- dont know about goodridge
so outers as per normal , the inner bit between frame guides [ top tube etc] and then run outers again so the cable is fully covered
Just looked at the kits on CRC. It does look like a full length PTFE sleeve rather than just to cover the exposed sections.
the guide is easy - use normal lengths where your current ones are, used tongued ferrules on the opens ections and put the blue sheath over the exposed cable. Whats hard?
well what's hard is whether to do that, or to run the black cable the whole way....... and also which route to go. Under the downtube and along the bottom, or cable tie to brake cable and run along the top tube and then the chainstay?
these are the hard decisions, pushing a cable through a piece of housing isn't too hard, I agree.
If I was going full housing on a frame with cable stops, I'd follow the original route and drill out the stops.
decided to go for original route along the top, and have temp cabled tied it to the frame where the stops are. It's working beautifully (actually better than before!) and looks ace.
Drilling the stops sounds... risky. Wouldn't want to tit it up.
Don't spray anything into the cables unless you want to have to repeat the task regularly. It'll dry out over time and gum-up, leaving you needing to flush the gum out and re-lube. Just leave them dry for consistent, and perfectly good, performance.