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Hello
I have to set up my 2007 Blur LT, í dont care about looks, what would give the best shifting, full, cut in sections ???
Full without a doubt. Had zero shifting problems running full length cables on my inbred
sections, without a doubt
(for the 1st few weeks only)
normally it's the cable stops on the frame that determine what you can run?
I do almost my riding in dry conditions, so mud is not really an issue, so only looking for best shifting performance!
Apart from (possibly) cost, sections have no advantages over full, even for the first few weeks. All else being equal, there is always less friction in a full-length outer.
Sections, theres less friction. I dont know how you managed to conclude theres less friction in a full length outer?
FWIW, I had a full length outer on all my bikes till I bought a cotic. Now run the inner exposed along the top tube and the shifting is improved.
I dont know how you managed to conclude theres less friction in a full length outer?
Every stop/break in the line creates friction (between the cable and the ferrule). Single length has two stops; everything else has a minimum of four. Six would be typical.
This is getting interesting! 😉
I use full length because I think the smooth feeling lasts longer without any need for maintenance, since the crap can't get in any where near as easily! I was quite surprised with how smooth my shifting was when I first installed them and its managed to stay that way for ages which is a first for me as I'm a bit rubbish with gears.
Every stop/break in the line creates friction (between the cable and the ferrule). Single length has two stops; everything else has a minimum of four. Six would be typical.
I see where your coming from. On the cotic its on the TT bit thats exposed, and it enters the farrules at bang on 90 degrees so it doesnt actually touch them to cause friction I guess.
All I know is shifting was improved over a full length outer.
full length is best for low maintenance, but I find it makes it a little more tricky to set up when you first put it together. A small price to pay.
Cable oilers.?
Gore RideOn fully sealed, if cost is no object.
And even if it is, they're actually not *that* much more than decent full sets of cables.
I see where your coming from. On the cotic its on the TT bit thats exposed, and it enters the farrules at bang on 90 degrees so it doesnt actually touch them to cause friction I guess.
Shirley it's unavoidable? As soon as tension is applied to the cable, it's going to be pulled against the ferrules. That you're getting better shifting on the Cotic is not necessarily down to the split cables; in fact, I'd be confident that it could be improved upon by fitting a single length.
The question should be 'XTR outers & inners' is it worth fitting anything else
Just set up mine with transfil flying snake ( or whatever the hell it's called). Massive difference. I understand it's a similar, cheaper, alternative to Gore fully sealed.
It did wreck my cable cutters though!
I would concur with steve_b77 - I use XTR inners and outers, with outers in sections and have very few problems with shifting. Tends to feel nice and smooth for months at a time.
My tuppence about the ferrules is that there is often an O ring in the ferrule which will add a bit of friction, I wouldn't like to comment on whether it is more or less than the friction of a full length outer.
I think if you tend to ride in dry conditions then you would be well served by XTR cables.
I think there's more friction in the bends than through the end caps. No one has mentioned housing compression. Split is better when new, full run don't get contaminated as easily. Best of both worlds is to fit gore cables. Sectional housing so minimal compression and full line to keep them clean.
No one has mentioned housing compression.
It's largely irrelevant. Gear cable outers use linear strands, rather than the coils found in brake cable, so compression is negligible. We wouldn't be able to index gears so precisely if gear cable was compressible.
It's not a lot but there is some compression. The more housing you have, the .more compression there is. Maybe it's in my head but full runs feel less precise to me.
Well I just went to full length outer on my Blur LT as I was fed up changing cables.
Shifts very well although the brand new XT shadow mech and shifter might have something to do with it! Time will tell if its a good idea longer term
Sections. With a couple of middleburn cable oilers (one on the run from the shifter, the other near the rear mech). Quick blast though with GT85 now and then keeps them running sweet.
Quick blast though with GT85 now and then keeps them running sweet.
Do you know that once you do it, you'll always have to do it? It dries out inside the cable until it becomes thick/gummy and creates extra friction, so then you have to spray more lube into it to get it running easily again. A while later...
It's not a lot but there is some compression. The more housing you have, the .more compression there is. Maybe it's in my head but full runs feel less precise to me.
On the other hand every additional housing/ferrule/frame stop you have in your cable run introduces more compression. I don't know if anyone has actually bothered to measure it, but it's by no means obvious which set up compresses less. For what it's worth my money is on full length housing.
The friction per unit length of housing is small enough for me to not be an issue. Friction only becomes a problem when it's as a result of crap getting in your housings. And I'm too lazy to clean that out regularly.
Full length for me.