[Closed] front wheel wobble

You need to adjust the cones (inner ones) properly then tighten them against the (outer) locknuts

cheers mate but will i need to take it to lbs as i dont have many tools,just basic spanners and alike.....

Time to start expanding you bike tool collection then 😀
Buy a decent set of cup & cone spanners, as you'll need the thinner head to get into the cones. I'm sure it can be done with STD spanners, but it's a pain. Also as you need to maintain C&C hubs regularly to get a decent life from them, so they'll be a useful purchase. They should cost less than a trip to your LBS.
Follow the guide for hub assembly at the bottom of [url= http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/hub-overhaul-adjustable-type ]this page[/url]

cheers zippy.i'll look into that,wheres best to purchase them??

any ideaswhat size cone spanner im best buying??been on ribble and merlin but not sure of sizes

Sorry no, I have a set of combi-pedal spanners (4 sizes in one spanner) that fit all sizes, that 'do' when I'm forced to mess with C&C wheels (I only run hub with replacable cartridge bearing myself). Though I wouldn't recommend the combi-spanner, as even the better 2nd set I've bought (looked good ar a decent price) have slipped & deformed slightly. I'm totally guessing when I say I think you probably need a 15mm for shimano hubs (anyone?).. You'll need to measure yours though to be sure, try a normal spanner to get the size you need.

thats a good call zippy thanks mate.i might take the wheel down to a wee lbs in scotstoun and ask him to size it for me,last time he put the CL rotor for free.

What sort of hubs are they. IF they are shimano and labelled then you can find the sizes on the techdocs part of simano website as they have exploded diagrams of most components.

Have a look at the park tools repair help page too for a step by step guide.

It's a simple job and one which will need to be done fairly regularly if you want to service the hubs and keep them going. It takes a few minutes to service. Open up clean and replace bearings (about 99p) and then put back together.

I got 2 15/16 spanners and filed one of the 16 ends to a 17 as my lbs didn't have any 17s. With those 2 I manage to sort most shimano wheels but XT (and XTR i presume) front need something daft like 18/14 fortunatley XT fronts rarely need sorting - never touched mine. Check shimano/manufacturer website for what spanners you need for your wheels.

cheers for the info guys,yeh there shimano hubs but not sure what ones of the top of my head but will check them out and do some pokin around to see what i need.out of couriousity is it easy to remove the qr axle??is it worth while getting cl removal tool as i assumes i'll need to remove them when servicing the hubs??cheers again

QR's, just loosen off the locking nut and pull it out by the QR lever (don't loose the springs & note which way they sit on the axle).
You won't need to mess with your rotor to do this job, so no need of a CL tool to do this job.

D0NK - Member
I got 2 15/16 spanners and filed one of the 16 ends to a 17 as [b]my lbs didn't have any 17s[/b]

they didn't have a 17mm cone spanner????
that's astounds me!
I wouldn't ever use your LBS

they didn't have a 17mm cone spanner????

I wouldn't ever use your LBS

ah sorry Donk
i thought you mean't they didn't have one in their workshop to do your wheels,
i might use your LBS now 🙂

zippy after the palava of the front wheel i noticed the back was doing the same.does this just happen through time or are my wheels gubbed.will there be any long term damage??

Let me 1st repeat PP as he repeats himself:

PeterPoddy - Member
I'll repeat this until I'm blue in the face!

Shimano hubs are fine IF you look after them. I've found that they generally contain very little grease from new and are often adjusted either too tight on the bearings or the locknuts are loose and the cones tighten down as you ride, potentially wrecking the hub. I've seen this happen to a brand new XT hub on a brand new bike.

So, from new, add some nice thick grease (most 'bike greases' are crap) and adjust the cones properly, making sure the locknuts are tight. I've done this to every C&C hub I've had and it works. I've had 4 year old Deores with bearing surfaces like glass they're so good, honestly.

But yes, XTs are better than Deores, and a bit lighter too. They are better sealed. Deores (M525) are fine, it's the cheaper M475 that lacks the conical seals over the cones that are not so hot. XTs have better sealing, but if you pack enough grease in there it's amazing how long even a Deore lasts.

In my limited experience of CC hubs, which consisted of buying them, riding them till they wobbled, then forever trying to get them to not wobble (too much), has lead me to abandon CC hubs as a fools errand. PP's comments above do make sense when added to my experience, you ghoices are just adjust them or maybe getting new ball bearings from your bike shop and strip and replace/regrease the ones on the hub. If you do just adjusted em up, I'd put a full service on your to-do list.

I can't diagnose over the internet wether yours are completely knackered (need a picture for that 😆 ), but give em a re-fresh and see how they go.

cheers.they seem to flow freely and no noice or anything so hopefully aint gubbed but not to clued up so never know,on the rear would i need to take rear cassette of to do a greasing and take the rotors off??im not totaly mechanicaly clued up!!

To be honest I'm not sure if you need to remove the rear cassette, as it been a while since I've done this, but leave the rotor alone. I have the tools to remove the cassette so would take it off just to make the whole job less of a faff, but you 'maybe' able to get away with it. Take another look at that Park Tools pages, there loads of useful info.

yes you normally need to remove the cassette, if it's a centrelock disc you'll need to remove that too, dunno about 6 bolt, not got a C&C 6bolt hub.