There are reams of threads on here comparing one tyre to another but would anyone care to confirm the fundamentals - what to look for in front tyre / back tyre. My understanding is:
[b]Back tyre:[/b] Low rolling resistance and low weight more important than on front tyre. Also, cornering more important on the rear.
[b]Front tyre:[/b] Rolling resistance, weight and cornering all less critical but braking ability matter more. Also a greater volume may help on the front as it may take greater impacts on descents.
Have I got it right?
Finally - [b]minimum tyre pressure.[/b] Low 20's seem reasonably common though typically manufacturers seem to quote higher values. If a light rider could sustain even lower tyre pressures without pinch flats, will he start to just wash out? i.e. Are the cushioning and grip benefits of fat tyres lost on light riders?
Some will say I'm thinking too much but hopefully I should get some nice geeky answers on here!! Thanks.
I hate the squishy feel of low tyre pressures. Very imprecise cornering as it squishes and rolls.
Front tyre needs cornering grip
A lot of it is about feel and thats personal preference
Complete oposite id say, you want high rolling on the rear and the cornering grip wants to be on the front tyre, also the front tyre wants to be a softer compound for grip, i use a maxxis high roller super tacky on the front and a maxxis high roller lust on the rear which is dual compound, harder compound in the centre for better rolling but softer compound on the outer lugs for grip, you also want high volume tyres on the rear if you are on a hardtail that way you can run lower pressure for more give in the rear end.
I use tubeless tyres front and back that way when doing steep rocky steps and rooty sections i can run around 12 psi in the front for super grip and run around 17 psi in the rear,
If you want better grip on the front turn the tyre around so the direction arrow is going backwards, you may up the resistance when pedaling slightly but will definatly grip more and stop quicker.
front cornering grip > rear cornering grip. You can generally hold a rear wheel slide, but if the front goes you're often landing on your face
To answer your question - no you have not got it correct.
Cornering grip Is the most important to me. I like the feel if the continuous firm side nobs on maxxis. They slip about a little on the centre tread but if you push over onto the side nobs they feel nice and solid . It personal taste tho as dome people love drifty cornering tyres.
I use tubeless tyres front and back that way when doing steep rocky steps and rooty sections i can run around 12 psi in the front for super grip and run around 17 psi in the rear,
you must weigh **** all.
front tyres fold on me at anything under 30psi (dual plys about 26)
Mountainman. you started well, but then it went a bit pear shaped when you started talking about reversing front tyres for more grip. If you do that on anything other than Nobby Nics you decrease braking performance. If the ramps point forward at the top of the tyre, the big square grippy blocks at the rear are your braking surfaces at the bottom of the tyre.
And your tyre pressures suggest you've got a really poor suspension setup and need to overcompensate with tyres that don't grip, but plush out your ride.
We spend £4k on a bike, and tyres cost about £30-40 but that 1% of the cost is the most important in terms of performance, but is the most frequently overlooked component of the bike.
If you want a better bike learn about tyres.
If you want to save weight on a tyre don't do it on the rear, much more likely to pinch flat.
For me I will never run a tyre where weight and rolling resistance are put above strength, grip and air volume. Different tyres suit different folk on different terrain, same with pressures. Most pumps are massively inaccurate anyway.
SKYLINE GTR Personnaly i dont turn my front tyre around but on the Maxxis highroller when they got 10/10 in MBR test the other month it said in the conclusion area for that tyre thats what you can do, also Steve Peat turns his Highroller around on the front for more grip.
Also regarding the tyre pressure im 14 stonne and surely more rubber area on the floor is more grip? its like drag cars they run about 5 PSI for grip to stick to the track
SLOWRIDER couldnt agree more with you there, i tryed the high volume Maxxis Ardent which is a lightweight tyre on the rear of my hardtail and hellfire went upto Lea Quarry and got 2 pinch punches in 2 hours running 30psi, thats why this time i have gone tubeless and using the Maxxis High Roller Lust, hasnt got the volume i wanted but a hell of alot more strength, also UST tyres have thicker side walls which help.
Mountainman drag cars go in a straight line, try cornering hard on a tyre that soft and it will reach a point where the extra grip is overshadowed by the tyre trying to squirm it's way off the rim. Not to mention pinch punctures even when run tubeless. All about compromise and balance innit?
True but im not on about running 12 - 20 psi all the time, just when attempting tricky wet slimy steps and root chutes, then pump them back up again i wouldnt dream of running such low pressures for the whole ride, yes pinch punches on tubless is possible but you more than half the risk running UST, also if you have dropped your pressures to try dodgy stuff then you arnt at high speed anyway.
Front tyre needs cornering grip
etcYou can generally hold a rear wheel slide, but if the front goes you're often landing on your face
Well I stand corrected there - thanks all for input. I can't think of an occasion where I've come close to loosing the front end whereas I've had one significant off and a few recovered rear cornering incidents over the years. Maybe that say something about my riding or perhaps my front set up has been good enough.
i been using panaracer 2.35 all condition tyres this week. they rock!