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I suppose it is a dropper alternative in the sense that not having a dropper is an alternative to having a dropper 🙂
Hmm, I like the idea but have a few questions for the author before I go sharpen the hacksaw.
1) Isn't it just bobbins?
2) It is just bobbins isn't it?
3) Is there any difference between this and something completely bobbins?
Nice mod, stop taking the piss you lot.
APF
Lol, all it is a quick way of getting the correct ride hight again.
I think a much more classy way would be to score a line round the post in both places then put some coloured enamel paint in the score. It's a good idea and probably would look better with a better looking clamp or similar.
I think a much more classy way would be to [b]score a line round the post[/b] in both places then put some coloured enamel paint in the score. It's a good idea and probably would look better with a better looking clamp or similar.
Please don't do this!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stress_concentration
http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/184271-1.html
I know posts get scratches in use but a using a sharp object such as a scribe to make a scratch on purpose could have quite painful consequences.
[i]I think a much more classy way would be to score a line round the post[/i]
or just bang a nail through it at the right point.
Bit of old gear cable, couple of those little cable connectors with the wee screws, cable around saddle and QR, and hey presto, even simpler.
Even simpler still.
Use a permanent marker to make a line for the high point and the low point.
Job done.
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Does anyone remember these?, i had one on my Marin Indian Fire Trial back in 95/95 and there's a good chance it's still in my parents garage - i wonder how it would look on my£4k hummer?, might have to dig it out and give it a try.
Beat me to it Somafunk.
The downside with those was that you got quite a lot of wear and tear on the post and frame over time. It still has a lot to be said for it though and the proper Hiterites also keep your saddle lined up as it goes up and down. It works best with a proper old school enclosed cam QR lever though.
[b]Yeah, looks like it would be a great alternative for trail riding.
Nope, too much of a hassle for me.
Really mister cheapskate? I've got money to burn and Reverbs on my kid's tricycles.
Maybe I'll give it a try.[/b]
Loved the poll at the bottom.
Number 3 for me. (They make it sound like a bad thing having a reverb on every bike...)
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To save all that fannying about, just tie a length of thick fishing line around the QR bolt shaft and the other end tied around the seatpost saddle clamp. When its the right height the fishing line will be tight.
Talk about over engineering a crappy solution!
I know posts get scratches in use but a using a sharp object such as a scribe to make a scratch on purpose could have quite painful consequences.
My Thompson has a huge chunk missing out of it and all my posts have a score line for the max extension. Even at my fattest I've not died in 12 years riding off road.
I had a Hite Rite, it was rubbish. Joe Breeze uses a Gravity Dropper now apparently 
The mod they've done there works pretty well, though that's a fairly clumsy and overcomplicated way to do it (pro tip- your seat clamp already has a perfect place to attach the wire/string)
I never said the hite-rite was any good, but back then we tried everything new didn't we?, DCD's, rear mech springy type tensioners, Girvin flexstems, elastomer MK1/2/3 manitous, biopace chainrings, powerstraps, rim cleaner attachment's for brake blocks, onza brakes that broke if you pulled the lever hard,....i could go on and on and on 😀 , i wish i had kept all my early mtb stuff though - would be worth a small fortune to all the retrobikers now.
Next time your about to roll a techy drop off try fiddling with your QR just as you approach the lip. It will end in tears.
Ah flexstems Yeah, wish I'd kept mine, I took it off pretty quick, it'd be worth something now I reckon. (I cut it in half and turned it into a camera mount for a motorbike, oops)
Next time your about to roll a techy drop off try fiddling with your QR just as you approach the lip. It will end in tears.
or
Next time your about to roll a techy drop off try moving your fat lardy arse over the rear of the bike and stuffing the saddle into your middle aged beer gut whilst wondering how much this will hurt just as you approach the lip. It will end in tears.
Apologies....couldn't resist.
So a post with a shoreline will fail? I think not. Very post gets scratched so they all will fail. What about the max height lines and stamping. You've got to have a real cheap post or seriously damaged one to fail on you.
What crazy articles to add. An engine get put under far more stress than any seat post or bike could ever get. And to add engines are 99% cast shite that get stress cracks alloy and stell ones just expand and contract within reasons all tolerances.
I could argue with you cheif31 with regard to propagational stress risers and fatigue cracking of alloy components but i'm not going to bother, i'm away to go for a bike run wi a mates dog (Toby or Tobes') instead, i figure i could get a more reasoned response from him anyway as comparing cast alloy static engine blocks with a seatpost that has to cope with lateral stress and weight bearing loads is gonna take up my free time and i'd probably just end up eating my own face in frustration.
Here's Toby, i'll ask him what he thinks.....
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FWIW I've seen a couple of seatposts (including one of mine, a fairly hefty FSA) crack at a point that seems to have started as no more than a scratch. No need to do it, is the main thing, so even if the risk is small it's unnecessary.
Well if the dogs gonna make more sense I guess your more at his level than you think?
Was it not in here that I saw a seatpost stamped with a centrepunch that had failed at the point where it had been, well, stamped with a centrepunch?
Maybe it was a different forum, the gist of it was that someone had stamped a wee mark on the seatpost and it had, well, failed spectacularly at the point where it had been stamped.
Seemed like a good argument for not intentionally damaging your seatpost.
Stamping a post involve hitting a punch with a hammer which excerpts force upon the metal structure and can weaken it. Scoring a line will not weaken it in anyway. But if you guys insist it will i suggest you either helicopter tape every part of you posts or bin them when they get scratched and buy a new one.
Maybe buy a seatpost whose reliability is not dependant on a layer of paint.
Another idea is a cut down broom handle down the seat tube with a 100mm fork coil spring on top with a ten pence coin on top of that, open qr post down down, close qr... Open qr post up, close qr.: if you rigged a qr remote problem solved..
It was my poodles idea btw, but he's a very clever poodle..
svalgis - MemberMaybe buy a seatpost whose reliability is not dependant on a layer of paint.
Who buys painted seatposts?
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Here's my work-in-progress.
I had a Hite Rite but was (still am :-)) too light to compress it.
Hite Rites were hateful things weren't they? Almost as rubbish as the chainring protector thing that clamped around the frame and weighed a ton.
Ps pre Reverb I marked all my posts with a touch of a mouse tail file, nice rounded scratch and I didn't die. I've got Superstar brake pads to take care of that...
Hite rite and flex stem on my Breezer, currently has normal stem and MXCD forks though 🙂
Hite rite was a bit awkward but it kinda worked once used to it. Strange how it didnt catch on, fast forward and suddenly droppers are everywhere, I wouldnt ride without one now
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