Just stripped my fork, then got a call asking if I wanted to hit the trails this afternoon. No bother, its a 5 minute job.
Or it would be if I could remember how I did it last time. I've got fox f100 RL ([url= http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/bikes/model/anthem.x3/7865/45504/#specifications ]these[/url]), am I right in thinking I need to follow [url= http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/oil_volumes.htm ]row 13 from here[/url]? I had it all written down somewhere, buggered if I can find it.
Also remind me which ones the damper side!!?
Edit - Assume the side without the air valve?
ta
Damper side has the lockout. Spring side has the air valve.
Line 13 looks correct for a F100 open bath fork
Don't rush it!
ah...we've hit a problem. Oil all in, then trying to tighten up the nut at the bottom of the damper leg. Bolt goes on but won't tighten up, basically the rod just turns (ie its not a cross threaded bolt).
Any ideas?
this happened to me. called mojo who advised using new crush washers which could help. Managed in the end to tighten properly with existing washers. make sure thread is clean and tighten crush washers as much as possible before adding bolts
can't even get the bolt off now, it just spins freely when I try to unscrew. Totally jiggered...
The thread looks fine, and the crushwasher tightens down to within a few mm of tightening and then the rod just starts turning.
If you compress the fork as far as you can, it puts some resistance on the damper leg so you can undo and then re-do the bolt.
Try locking the fork out first and then push downhard on the bars, will hopefully help the push rod seat into the lowers and stop turning so mush.
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tonyd, what are you planning on hitting with that?
Useful for unseating the push rods when taking apart, but you risk damaging the damper adjustment shafts etc. At a push you could put the socket back on top of the damper removal nut and hit the socket, but make sure its firmly in place otherwise you'll mash the head.
New crush washer, clean threads of bolt and stud if that fails air gun.
edit: air ratchet shooting them won't help although may make you feel better momentarily
managed to get it off, mojo suggested hitting the end of my spanner with a hammer, to get the same effect as an air gun. Worked nicely.
Cleaned all threads and it screwed on without the lowers, but once the lowers are back on I still can't get it to torque up properly. Will see if it leaks over the next few days.