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Reading though the advice it sounds like you need a 30-32-34 triple chainset.
As I said back there << this is how it was delivered.
I'm not really blaming you. Its more the way that cycling heads of down these paths which solve one problem but can create another
When are all you gripers "Spinning out"?If it's descending a tarmac road, why do you care? Surely you have a road bike to do that on?
You take a road bike with you for the tarmac sections, genuis
More seruioulsy
I do agree spinning out on tarmac isn't much of an issue
Firstly I'm heartened to see that 1x10 and 1x11 folks do use 28 and 30 front rings. That's the only way it would work for me
According to SRAM 28 and 30s are the way fwd for most. 32 is just an older 1x10 go-to / hang-up, or a size that works better for 26".
Firstly I'm heartened to see that 1x10 and 1x11 folks do use 28 and 30 front rings. That's the only way it would work for meAccording to SRAM 28 and 30s are the way fwd for most. 32 is just an older 1x10 go-to / hang-up, or a size that works better for 26".
Because sram cassettes have a 10t for its smallest sprocket as opposed to shimanos 11t.
As soon as SRAM cassettes go for under a ton I'm in.
Till then I'm oot.
That 10% difference may make it work for some, agreed. I'd always gear a bike for the climbs, the top end is what it is.
I only go fast when gravity assisted, the rest of the time I'm savouring the ambience.
30 or 32 upfront would make a massive difference.
I ran 30t on a 11-36 cassette on my 26" full suss before it was nicked and found it perfect. People fitting range expanders usually then fit larger chainrings so are really only benifitting on the fire-road descents/road sections.
I'm in my 50's, ride once a week (bit anorexic though)and find spinning on steep climbs really hopeless as you can't put the power down on techy sections and when I'm going so slowly I loose balance then I'd rather get off and push. I ride the Tweed Valley stuff and big days out in the Scottish mountains.
Don't give up now OP. Looking forward to some cheap exotic triples.
I have a Works N/W 30t chainring, a 10spd casette with OneUp 42t/16t conversion and an XT shadow+ with the OneUp Rad cage fitted. I only ride tarmac when I have to.
At 50yrs old it gets me up the hills and by the time I've exhausted the 30/11 top speed off road I'm normally going quite fast enough thank you very much. Shifting is very accurate; all works perfectly.
C
Re "spinning out", spinning out itself isn't generally the issue on descents, just that a lot of people will find themselves not able to pedal in the gear they want to. I'm a habitual stomper, I like a low gear at speed. Going 1x10's forced a bit of a spinny change, which by and large has been good but if you don't want to make that change it'd be a bummer.
Northwind if you're so fast that you can ride UK singletrack and spin out throwing pedal strokes in in the top gear of 11-36 x 32 then I'm sure whichever bike company is sponsoring you can probably afford to just give you a few extra set up crankses.
Excuse me, but you must have just not read my post then commented on what you imagined it said 😕
I'm still non the wiser. What 32t chainring will fit this pissing bike please?
[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/nukeproof-mega-tr-275-pro-bike-2014/rp-prod107269 ]Megaapartfrommylegs[/url]
If you're switching down from something bigger, any. Because they're smaller.
Just stick a 32 on the front, I'm 40 in February and not particularly fit at present.
Did 2500' climbing round Hebden yesterday with only 1 push (penny steps), only time I feel like I' m spinning out is on tarmac going downhill which I try to avoid anyway.
Swearing and grunting helps.
Can't see a problem with putting a 30 or 32 nw chain ring on your bike
wrightyson - my quick search came up with a 104 Bolt Circle Diameter (BCD).
So that's the majority of single rings.
For example this one in the 104bcd version:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/race-face-narrow-wide-single-chainring/rp-prod109723?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Shopping&utm_name=UnitedKingdom&gs=1&gclid=CP2a69j5_8ECFefMtAodml8AYQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
I find that a really odd build, 1x10 trail/enduro bike with a 36 on the front. Smacks of a spares bin build.
I have been running 36t on 1x10 for about 6 years now (1x9 prior to its invention) - you get used to it after a bit and i haven't yet met a climb i can't do (eventually). i do do a lot of squats at the gym, though...
Sure, I thrutched 32:36 up the Whytes Level climb recently. It's not the gradient per se (I'm used to SS, the effort doesn't bother me) but a lower gear would have been a lot easier on all those nadgery bits, and would have saved more energy for the rest of the day.
I miss riding tech slow climb sections rather than just charging at them and hoping I've carried enough speed to get up.
I was running 30-40 for 6 months but I can just about manage 30-36 for South Wales now.
Will probably get a 32/34-42 at some point tho.
According to SRAM 28 and 30s are the way fwd for most. 32 is just an older 1x10 go-to / hang-up, or a size that works better for 26".
Convenient, they're also the only ones making them?
36t front ring on my bike, but it is a rigid bike so no energy lost bobbing around, and the Chilterns are mostly short and sharp so even a granny ring wouldn't make a nice spin so mashing is the only choice.
Strikes me that you need to try a few chainringsf and use the one that suits your riding best. Lots of people on here seem to think that 30/32/34/36 are unsuitable for mtb use but it all depends what sort of riding you do and how big your legs are.
wrightyson,
I had the same issue with my Mega AM bought for me by my wife as a 50th birthday pressie. So much so I came close to selling it as i was really struggling. I fitted a Race Face N/W 32t chain ring from Merlin and it was sooo much better. Most of mine is Lakes riding.
Chain length was realistically a bit too long (maybe 1 link) but still functioned. It was only when I replaced the chain that I shortened it.
As above, I would go with a 32T Thick and Thin, Superstar are fine if the budget is tight. You might need to pull the crank out to swap the rings.
There should be enough adjustment on the chain device to take up some of the chain slack, otherwise you will need to shorten it a bit.
As above, 32 thick thin chainring, remove the chain-device.
I'm 10 years older than you and get on fine with a 1 x 10 30/42 f/r
distictly average mid thirties bloke with a 32T can get up pretty much anything i could with a granny and never spin out on the downs. although tbh i have no qualms about getting off and pushing when climbs get ugly! would always rather save my legs for the descents.
you could always add a ninja nanny?