[Closed] Fitting Juicy 5 brake pads

Have you tried pushing the pistons in before fitting they could be stuck out a little..

🙂

Yep - remember they were bastards to change last time.

yes I do... How did we do it last time???

What do I do next, other than admit defeat and head down the LBS?

never! You only attempt this when it would have been prudent to give up several hours ago, having trashed not only the brake but also a disc mount and £300 worth of tools and kitchen utensils.

It is actually very easy when you know how. Have a look on the SRAM site for instructions. I did my J3s exactly as in the instruction book, first time.... 🙂

Oh, are they proper Avid pads, or, err, 'cheaper' ones?

LBS last time. This time I WILL SUCCEED even if I have to read the f manual

oooh PP thats going to wind him up.

Your like the teachers pet!
[i]
Look Miss I finished all my home work

and it was easy!
[/i]

Superstar pads 😉 What could possibly go wrong?

Are they Avid's own pads ? I find that Avid's pads go in pretty easy whereas some other brands just won't 🙁

EDIT: sorry...there's the answer - I was busy typing ! If you succeed I'd be very interested in the technique !

If they are non-OE pads it's possible that the backing plate is a tad too big to fit into the caliper. Try fitting one pad to see if it slots into place neatly without interference. If it doesn't, you'll have to file a bit off the backing plates...... All SS and Discobrakes pads have been like this on my Maguras and Avids, but strangely OK on Kirsty's XTs.

Worth checking! 🙂

Might be worth trying each pad in turn without the spring just to see if they actually fit into the calipers and will 'click' into place as the instructions say. I've heard of some 3rd party pads having too much braking material which won't allow them to fit. By putting each pad in in turn you will at least rule out (or confirm) that the metal carrier is ok (or too big).

Good luck.

(I'm off to check the Disco pads I bought for the weekend in the Dales now ...)

Changed my Juicy 3's pads last weekend, can never remember how-I-did-it-last-time either.
Jemmy'd pistons back with big screwdriver on old pads, took the 'spring-clip' (shiny outer clip) out, bent it a little so its middle was closer into the caliper, cleaned out the caliper inside, little copper-grease on back of both pads, slid both pads in with separator clip, 1 pad resisted a bit then went with a little reciprocation action.
Persistence is the key 🙂

Before putting them in (assuming you are still grappling with them - scrape of the pain around the edge of the backing place. This will help the pads retract, as the paint thickness can mean they don't retract properly and they drag.

Also, as suggested, put a pad in each side separately to confirm that they fit into the little nodule on the piston properly. There might be a little too much material there that means removing.

Okay guys, it was remarkably simple. There is a slight 'ramp' to help the sticky out bit of the piston slide on. Filed that back a little bit more to make it more of a ramp and then Bingo! The pads slid in and clicked first time. Front and back are fitted.

Now do I have to wait for the excess pad material to wear away before they will stop rubbing? Only fractional but continuous.

No it won't go away. Nip it in the bud. Undo caliper bolts, squeeze lever. While holding lever, tighten caliper bolts. Top tip from Rob the Brewer there.

[i]Undo caliper bolts[/i]

Where are they then?

I have the adjustable mount bits but haven't noticed any other bolts. Will go have a look

Only works with post-mount btw. (someone put a pic of a post mount caliper up for wca please)

Think he means the main bolts affixing the caliper to the mount - loosening them a little + squeezing on the brake lever probably lines-up the pads with discs.
Had rubbing problems with mine for 1.5 rides (with some extra braking for good measure), now the wheels spin rub-free.
Will have to remember your tip about the 'ramp', cheers.

DezB - Both pads rub a little on each side. It is not alignment, just the gap between the pads is the same as the width of the rotor.

I suppose letting some brake fluid out might help?

Having looked outside this might be a good excuse not to go for the night ride this evening 😉

I see, yeah just use it - they should find their own distance from the pads with some hard use!

Did you scrape off the paint around the edge of the backing plate on the pads?
When I changed to SSC pads, mine rubbed and the LBS recommended trying this - it worked a treat. Apparently the excess material stops the pads retracting properly.

Resetting the calipers also helped too and only takes 30secs.

stumpy - pads weren't painted on the back.

I will give them some use tonight and see how they are when I get back.

Are they not painted at all? Are they the organic ones, or other?

The organic ones I bought around March time were painted black. Never really understood why seeing as the stock ones aren't.
Anyway - when I say scrape the paint off, I don't mean off the back of the backing plate, but around the edge (think of the thin bit all the way round a CD case).
Not that this will be an issue if yours aren't painted at all.

The separating spring on my rear brake got bent on the last ride, so I am probably going to have to change my pads soon. Kinda dreading it after all the 'Avid' pads threads on here in the past day or two!

Not organic pads.

Once I had filed the ramp a bit more they were really easy to fit although I did use a big pair of pliars to 'help' push them in. This was mainly to save my dainty fingers

Just got back from the first ride and the pads work great and they no longer rub.

Top customer service from SuperStar too, I had an email waiting for me describing how I could cure the situation.

Praise to Neil!