[Closed] Fitting a square taper crank/BB- is this right?

There are 2 different standards of square taper bb.

Look on Sheldon Brown website.

They pull a fair way on when you get them torqued up, looks OK to me.

Looks alright to me.

Thats pretty normal with new cranks, if they sat all the way on the crank first go the taper would be pretty useless and would be wobble central.

Look fine to me too.

yep - as ^^ they said. Looks perfectly normal.
Only thing i'd add is to make sure you get some copper grease on there or they'll be impossible to get off after some time.

No idea if that's the recommended practice or not so preparing to be flamed, but it's always worked for me.

No need for grease etc on tapers ime but no harm either.

Cranks pull on 3mm or so when tightened.

DO grease BB threads

Look absolutelely spot-on fit,no need to worry. Just check them for tightness after a few rides and you are set. If they had hit the base of the taper I would be worried but this fit is normal for Shimano BB. Enjoy the ride. 🙂

as said above they look fine.
agree with cynic-al about not greasing the tapers and greasing the cups.
if you're worried about the crank bolts working loose then apply a very small dab of threadlock on them.

Worth keeping an 8mm on you to tighten them up after the first couple of rides.

Cool - cheers chaps 😀

Now I need to find a quill stem. All are the same diameter?

Normally 1 1/8", but some may be 1"

Torque them up, go for some sprints up and down the road, then torque them again, then sprint again, and repeat until they keep the torque.

Then check again after each ride for a while.

And no grease on them.

Ah definitely 1" then- this is an old school CIOCC(?) steel frame/fork.

I've got a 1" quill and carbon fork to go with it you can have for postage price. Just hung up in my garage, not sure how nice you want...

Torque them up, go for some sprints up and down the road, then torque them again, then sprint again, and repeat until they keep the torque.

Then check again after each ride for a while.

And no grease on them.

I don't think this is right. Both the grease thing and the re-tightening thing. A thin layer of grease allows the crank to be properly torqued. After riding the cranks move up the BB axle slightly and away from the bolt giving the impression that the bolt needs to be re-tightened when in fact the cranks are finding their correct position on the BB axle. repeated re-tightening chases the crank further and further onto the axle until it splits.

See here for better explanation-
[url] http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/installing-cranks.html [/url]

Yes please 🙂

Do I need an external h/set - theres one fitted (will take a pic at lunchtime).

I've naughtily been commuting into work on my pride and joy and the condition its in after just two days is 😯

Ooooh, I've not seen a good old "should I grease my square-taper or not" argument for ages, brilliant. 😀

Here's my 2p: doesn't matter so long as you torque the things up properly, do what you like. Next!

[i]Yes please [/i]

Was that to my offer? I'll have to get you pics and measurements later if so. Gotta make sure it's long enough, like.
There's a Dura Ace headset in the frame too... been in there for yonks, but might be ok!

Cheers/yes 🙂

I'll take a couple of pics of mine (and measure headtube length)- just to be sure you'll think it'll work.

Cool 🙂

I don't think this is right. Both the grease thing and the re-tightening thing. A thin layer of grease allows the crank to be properly torqued.

Yup. Thin wipe of grease, torque on properly, job done.

also - If you ever have the urge to bling it up with some allow crank bolts, use steel bolts to torque the crank on the tapers, then remove the bolts and fit the aluminium ones. Dont try to torque up with the aluminium ones.

DezB, just make sure he doesn't try and return them due to lack of travel......

Aluminium crank bolts? Nope, soft as cheese, avoid.
They'll corrode onto the steel axle then when you try and undo them they either shear or round out.
At least they're easy to drill out.

Here it is:

[img] [/img]

I couldn't find a measuring tape so slapped something for perspective next to it- I'd say its quite a short headtube.

Shimano square taper chainsets come pre greased.

Is that an Italian bottom bracket? Ciocc I think do not use bsa threads.

With some nice grease inside I bet that headset will feel smooth and buttery; no need to replace!

Fork could do with a drop of paint..

Rockhopper - Member

Shimano square taper chainsets come pre greased.

Is that an Italian bottom bracket? Ciocc I think do not use bsa threads.

Will gently check tonight.

I don't think this is right. Both the grease thing and the re-tightening thing. A thin layer of grease allows the crank to be properly torqued.

Yup. Thin wipe of grease, torque on properly, job done.

The no-grease and sprint/retorque thing is from the Royce bottom bracket installations here :

and I tend to think they are right. The aluminum of the cranks with provide enough lubrication to pull the crank up the taper, especially using these instructions.

bigyinn - Member
Rockhopper - Member
Shimano square taper chainsets come pre greased.

Probably to prevent corrosion in the box whilst it sits on the shelf.

Its a big glob of grease on one side of the square hole perfectly placed to be spread around when its placed onto the BB.

Its a big glob of grease on one side of the square hole perfectly placed to be spread around when its placed onto the BB.

big glob of grease and 'lightly grease the tapers' are somewhat in opposition...

Anyway - Royce ship titanium axles and I don't think Shimano do, so I would go with the Royce instructions as getting a creak free fit with titanium axles is a lot trickier.

I usually find it helps to have the BB in the bike first as I think it will be really difficult to install the BB now. 😆

Oh, Italian BB has been mentioned! I've got one in my frame but its.... HTII ...