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[Closed] Exotic forks - the steerer cracked when I was installing the star nut. HELP!!!!

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Okay, i have a spare 164mm rotor I can try on the forks without a mount. I would prefer 180s really but I don't think you can get a +15mm IS to IS adaptor. I would use a 185 disc but i haven't seen one that has a braking surface as wide as these MPH rotors 😕



   
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I would use a 185mm disc but i haven't seen one that has a braking surface as wide as these MHP rotors

You need an old hope Closed 2 rotor like [url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=463 ]THIS[/url], there should be a few going if you put a WTD in the classifieds.



   
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Considering the steerer tube is apparently made of paper, I’m not sure I’d want to risk putting anymore load through the legs...

Don’t forget now you’re going all light/carbony/rigid your bike weighs less and you won’t have any fork dive under braking, you’ll probably find a 165mm on the new setup about as effective as the 180mm was with the manitous plus a 165mm rotor is even lighter, count thos grams…

I'd give the 165 a go before buying a bigger rotor



   
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Thanks for the link Stato. That looks perfect to me. I just tried a 164mm rotor on the IS mount and it is a perfect fit so it's safe to assume a 185mm rotor will be spot-on if I use a 20mm adaptor. I will have a hunt around to see if a 15mm adaptor exists but it's unlikely, I know. 🙂

Still need to resolve the fork issue before I worry about changing rotors...



   
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cookeaa - Member
Considering the steerer tube is apparently made of paper, I’m not sure I’d want to risk putting anymore load through the legs...

Don’t forget now you’re going all light/carbony/rigid your bike weighs less and you won’t have any fork dive under braking, you’ll probably find a 165mm on the new setup about as effective as the 180mm was with the manitous plus a 165mm rotor is even lighter, count thos grams…

I'd give the 165 a go before buying a bigger rotor

Good point. 164s would be more than adequate for my chilled out riding style 😉

Think I have sussed out the quote system on here too 😆



   
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Don't forget you'll need to shim the caliper in order to centralise it - unless you're very lucky



   
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Think I have sussed out the quote system on here too

good work, Enjoy...



   
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uplink - Member
Don't forget you'll need to shim the caliper in order to centralise it - unless you're very lucky

Funny you should say that. I do think the caliper will require a washer or too 😉



   
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TandemJeremy - Member
IS mount is not for any specific size of rotor - it is an IS mount. You use different callipers for different size rotors or an adaptor.

Yeah you were right - it was all down to the size of the caliper...



   
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Right chaps, I have just found this front disc mount on CRC...

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=29507

They do an IS 180mm mount. It sounds like it should work but would I have the same issues with the MPH caliper size resulting in me needing a 185mm rotor?



   
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Nope that is completely the wrong adapter.

You would use it if you had to mount a post mount caliper on to an IS fork.

You have an IS fork and an IS mount, 165mm, caliper: you either want a 185mm rotor and a +20mm IS - IS adapter or just stick with a 165mm rotor and no adapter...



   
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Trail-Blazer - you could (in theory) use that adaptor, along with the Giant adaptor, to run a 180mm rotor. However, as the giant adaptor is not a common item there is no way of knowing if it will fit the atomlab adaptor without actually trying (the dimensions are correct, but there might be a caliper/adaptor/fork interaction which prevents it all fitting together)



   
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Ahhh, i see, what your getting at it may work if you used the 160mm Funn IS mount with your existing Giant post to IS “+15mm” mount…
Then again it might not work, and by the time you’ve pissed about with all these different adapters it would have been easier and cheaper to just use a 165mm rotor…



   
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Think "made out of paper" might be a bit strong. I've been commuting along canal towpaths for a year on exotic carbon forks and they're ok. I've just started taking them proper off-road actually.

Stu.



   
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Late update of an old thread...

The guys at Carbon Cycles gave me a new set of forks under warranty and I'm really happy with them. I knew I was in a tricky situation as they could have said the crack was down to improper installation so I'm very relieved at this outcome. CC get a big thumbs up from me...

I used a Hope hed doctor second time around to avoid any more drama. 🙄

The weight reduction was massive as those manitous were ridiculously heavy but I did feel the need to buy some Ritchey WCS carbon Rizer bars to help smooth out the bumps. (they don't look too bad, either 8) )

I picked up a set of Superstar forks for my (heavy aluminium) winter bike since I caught the rigid carbon fork bug. The forks are identical apart from the Superstars' crown and dropouts being chrome. I believe a few other companies sell the same forks with their own branding but theirs are a lot more expensive than the CC forks... ❓



   
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😀 Nice one!!!



   
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"I believe a few other companies sell the same forks with their own branding but theirs are a lot more expensive than the CC forks..."

Naming no Nukeproofs 😉

£85 worth of stickers...
[img] [/img]



   
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I’ve had a set of exotic forks for a couple of months now & have to say I’m very impressed – ride the same trails as I do on the yeti (pace RC41 forks) albeit slower and with more precise lines. I initially did have some issues with star nuts, mainly slipping when tighten – Ended up putting in a Hope Head doctor – Although I did find it a very tight fit
As for breaks – what you really want for the true singlespeed minimalist experience you need to go for V breaks – they make ridding very interesting



   
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As for breaks – what you really want for the true singlespeed minimalist experience you need to go for V breaks – they make ridding very interesting

That would help with the weight reduction, too. Those MPH brakes aren't the lightest of things...



   
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