And I have nothing against KOMS - I owned one once
🙂
I will check out how to make it clear my bike is an eBike so I don't upset DT78 and the like.
Anyway to get it to default to Year to Date rather than All Time on the Strava segment details?
[quote="WorldClassAccident"]Riding on road/tarmac is DULLNo. You chose a dull route, or live in a place with only dull routes.
Time to move out of "civilisation" to somewhere more pleasant.
I took a group out last year and one of them had an electric Scott FS (not sure which one).
He had no problem keeping up on the climbs, and tbh was the only one of us who cleared a couple of long steep ones but he was right at the back on the fast long descent (Gypsy Glen, Peebles for those that know it), due to the lack of speed.
As he said, without it he wouldn't be out.
I also had a spin at the LBS on a new hybrid Cube, no button just assisted the pedals. Brilliant how it worked, but again too slow in town for me, although they'd just sold two to an old couple who wanted them to hang off the back of their motorhome to get around when parked up.
To raise the speed of my scott e-genius 710 to an excessive amount i would need to change the gearing, at the moment my bike is running an 18t front chainring which the motor turns 2.5 times every crank revolution so by my estimates that would equate to a 45t front chainring on a normal bike.
At the rear i am running 11sp XT so that gives me a gear range of 11 to 40.
With my rough working out with a tyre radius of 2230mm and 175mm cranks (which are far to long btw - pedal strikes are a pain so i'll be swapping to 165mm soon) along with the current 18t chainring that gives me a top speed of 31mph at a cadence of 90rpm (a 115" gear), If (and it is an [b][i]if[/i][/b]) i fit the tuning dongle then i would most likely drop to a 16t front chainring which once you factor in the 2.5x motor revolutions would give me an equivalent front chainring size of 40t and a top speed of 27mph at 90 rpm (102" gear), just as relevant is the low gearing when up in the 40t rear cassette which would give me a very useable 28" low gear.
Something to think about for sure, and i do not consider a top speed of 27mph to be excessive for use when off-road.
What i'd really like to be able to do is alter the current torque curves of the existing set up so i can personalise the power outputs for a given situation, i used to race moto-x rather competitively from the age of 12 through to 20 and had a choice of 3 different exhausts, a range of gearing and specifically tuned cylinder heads and pistons that were chopped and changed according to the types of track and event i was doing, some tracks were tight n' twisty which necessitated a quick and brutal peaky power delivery and others were open (beach races) which suited a more laid back smooth power delivery.
Being a natural fettler of my equipment for a given situation is what i love experimenting with, i'd love to be able to do similar with the Bosch motor.
[i]No. You chose a dull route, or live in a place with only dull routes.
Time to move out of "civilisation" to somewhere more pleasant. [/i]
No, the scenery was fine, the cycling was dull.
You just turn the cranks, no need to concentrate or think, no technique, just keep turning the cranks. Dull
Ah, it's you then.
Yep, it is me. Just spinning the cranks is dull to me. I would like to be admiring the beautiful scenery while being entertained by the cycling. For scenery on its own you might as well walk or drive.
I haven't ridden for 12 months so my backside was a bit tender from yesterdays ride.
That's the fault of the fitted scott saddle, they may be fine for a race snake whippet on an XC bike but i swapped mine out for a charge spoon before i had my first ride as the demo bike i borrowed last year had the same saddle - ouch!
I used to be a race whippet but things have gone to pot a bit
[img] http://goo.gl/5PVFtv [/img]
I guess there is still a race whippet inside me, maybe two or three
🙂
Chiiiiipppppp itttt!
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nothing I would ever publicly declare
Gawd that poor dog is a **** crying shame, I'm telling myself it's photoshopped rather than an actual photo 🙁
[b]Thursday Night Ride Review[/b]
I started these group rides about 4 1/2 years ago as a way for local riders to meet up and have a nice relaxed ride instead of some of the more committed groups of riders who just rode flat out the whole time. They always ended with a few beers back in my garage. For the last 3 1/2 years I have been unable to ride properly so have just gone down the garage for a beer or two.
Last night I actually went on the Thursday Night Ride!!
[b]Non-Electric Bit
[/b]Isn't cycling great, even better with a group of friends
Large amounts of the trails have remained similar but there are lots of new bits to explore and learn.
After 3 years off the bike I have lost the knack of choosing the good line around, over or through obstacles and rode like a total newbie
Mud and rain doesn't hurt, Trees do
I definitely need a dropper post - on order with Rich
Brand new big tyres don't make you immune from punctures. 650B Plus tyres need 2 CO2 canisters to inflate (3 if you let Matt try to help)
Nobbly Nic tyres have zero grip in Lordswood mud. The jury is out on if it is the tyres, the pressures, the mud, the plus sizing of the tyre or just the rider being rubbish. All to be tested over the coming months.
A rubber band fixing for bar lights may be great on the road but off road the lights bounce around and normally end up pointing at your toes. Need to get a proper bracket but also remembered that bar lights are rubbish compared to helmet mounted lights so needs to be a helmet bracket. Unfortunately when the scroats robbed my bikes they also robbed my helmet which had one half of the mounting bracket attached.
Remote front and rear lock out works really well, especially like the half way lock out to reduce the travel and stiffen the ride a bit. Apparently gives better traction.
Strava times are strangely intriguing again. No KOMs but quicker on the slow climbs but slower on a lot of the other bits.
[b]The Electric bit[/b]
If you get an electric bike your mates will want a go on it. They will then hoon up and down the hills on max boost giggling like buffoons.
You ride the trails in a higher gear than you would do otherwise - fine until you stop in a boggy area or an a hill and try to restart only to find you are in top gear.
To change down you lift the back wheel slightly and spin the pedals to let the rear mech move. When you do this the electric motor will kick in spinning the wheel and roosting all the mud and gloop off it straight into the face of anyone stood behind you (sorry Matt)
Don't follow too closely when climbing hills. If the guy in front stops or wobbles I would normally stop but stay balanced on the pedals. Do this on an electric bike and the boost stops and suddenly you are stationary on a hill in a really high gear. Kind of the same as the earlier point and I guess it is my main learning from last nights ride.
The biggest benefit, other than the easier pedaling, is getting the bike back up to speed after a stop or slowing for an obstacle. A couple of pedal strokes and you are cruising again.
After one particularly badly ridden down hill(ish) section where I kept sliding off the trail, clipping trees, riding into logs and tree stumps I was feeling battered but fortunately there was a long draggy climb afterwards so I stuck it in a low gear, max boost and enjoyed a rest and got my breath back as I gently cruised up the climb. Weird to use climbs as rest and relax periods!
At the end of the ride the battery was still showing 4 out of 5 battery bars so I used just over 20% of the available power riding 10.0mi in 1:05:39 and climbing 494ft according to Strava
I got gordy at Bothy Bikes to set up my tyres tubeless when he was building it up for me, done 600m+ so far over/through briars/thorns/and one trip into a gorse bush without any punctures. Low pressure helps, for my 11stone weight i run as low as 12psi in the front and 13 psi in the rear for natural type trails, if you are riding a more hard packed trail centre type surface i go up to 14psi front and 15psi rear as otherwise they can feel quite squirmy in corners.
Mud?, yeah the big tyres can take a bit of getting used to in mud as they tend to float on the surface so when it comes to cornering you really have to commit to leaning the bike over (yet keep your body upright) so that the nobby nic sidewall knobs dig in - try this and you may be surprised.
Tyre pressure makes a big difference as to how the bike rides, 1 or 2 psi really does make a difference especially over wet roots and off camber muddy corners.
Mucky nuts fat face fenders fit well but they benefit from slightly heating up with a heat gun then held into position whilst the plastic forms to the shape of the fork crown and rear seat stay yoke - they don't keep all the muck off you but they do make a difference.
As you've found out the fox suspension reduced travel mode really does help with traction on the climbs, due to the low tyre pressures providing decent small trail chatter absorption i've found i can run an extra 5psi in the shocks without any drawbacks.
If you get a stealth dropper post then pay attention to the routing through the motor casing, see pics below. The plastic cover for the motor needs a slight modification by a dremel/file/sharp knife to remove some of the plastic so that the cable can have a cleaner exit and allow for a flush fit of the plastic motor housing.
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Gap before modification
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routing of cables inside motor housing
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Slight removal of some inner plastic on the motor housing will allow the cover to sit better over the dropper cable.
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Gap after modification
Peter Poddy - if they give you the option of a dongle, and not really knowing what that is, why would it break warranty to remove it? (I'm thinking it's like chipping a car...?)
If I had one, then I'd like the option of maxxing it out for hooning around on a mates farm. We've used a quad out there and so a chipped e-bike might be amusing
I have to say, these bikes do sound awesome, not that I have any plans to get one
They don't give you the dongle. It is an aftermarket fit and like chipping a car it normally invalidates your warranty as they don't like you taking the motor covers off and fiddling with the electronics.
I am planning on going tubeless. Any idea which, if any, of these values from my spares box will work?
[url= https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1624/25378787222_5e2deb7b40_k.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1624/25378787222_5e2deb7b40_k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/EECVfW ]20160304_124426[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/89686376@N04/ ]WCA![/url], on Flickr
My first pic up there disappeared for some reason?,
here it is showing the gap
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As to the valves i dunno?, but i imagine the standard stans will work fine as that's what david sells in the shop.
The rubber sealing edges of the 3rd from left valve you pictured above look quite perished, for the sake of a few £ i'd be tempted to fit new stans valves as once you fill the big tyres with 130ml+ of fluid you do not want to removing them anytime soon. Apparently the tyres set up quite easily with a suitable fat bike big volume floor pump or if you have a compressor it'll be a doddle.
Any of them. Silver one looks the newest. I'd use the 2 that it was easiest to remove the valve core from.
A quick Q re top speed. If you changed to a larger sprocket on the front (say from 32 to 36) do you get more top end or does the computer alter the power to keep it going 25kph?
Local Specialized dealer is trying to get me a Levo in XL but isn't hopeful as there's none left in any size..
The fitted software restrictions would cut out the assist above 15.5mph no matter what front sprocket/gearing change you fiddle about with.
Thought that might be the case. Cheers.
Totally faff free tubeless conversion.
Possibly because of new tyres and wheels, possibly because a valve adapter let me use a compressor to inflate.
Let down tyre and remove inner tube. Fit valve and a couple of twists with pliers to tighten it. Pour in a metric glut of Stan fluid. Put the tyte in roughly the right place. Inflate and wait for a couple of pop noises as the edgee fit the rims. Put wheels back on the bike.
Tomorrow I can start playing with the pressures to see if I can find any grip on the nobbly nic tyre
Should be able to get lower now, much less likely to have a repeat of Thursday's puncture.
I found Nobbys do get dramatically better at the lower end of the pressure scale. Used to have them on the old green Bandit.
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it
[i]Totally faff free tubeless conversion.[/i]
Yeah, ever spoken too soon?
Went to meet mates for a ride at 3pm and walked into the garage to find a flat back tyre. Re-inflated and air was pissing out around the valve. Popped the tyre off and picked a glob of latex like 4 bits of chewed gum stuck together. Poured some more Stans in and raced off to meet the mates. Half flat within a few minutes and returned home pissed off.
Back at the garage I worked out that it wasn't air escaping because the valve wasn't seated but because somewhere the air was leaking through the spoke holes. By re-inflating the tyre and bouncing the tyre while rotating it to ensure the liquid was properly splashed everywhere inside the tyre and rim we had success.
Too late to join the ride but I set off for a ride on my own.
[b]Non Electric bit[/b]
Mud is still sloppy but I am getting better at keeping the bike going and choosing better lines.
I can no longer remember the trails in enough detail to ride back without lights in the near dark
[b]The electric bit[/b]
I am getting better at getting the gears and boost combination to work together.
You need to read the trail ahead better as it is less obvious when the trails are steepening and you need to change down. I thin I said last time, if you stop and try to restart you risk being in way to high a gear. Only happened once this ride.
The electric bit is fading from the riding experience and the riding is what it is all about. Perfect!
Could it really be this simple?
Or for 140 euro this seems an easy fir or remove depending where you are riding so you can remain legal on the road to the private land..
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